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Fuel Coupe

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Everything posted by Fuel Coupe

  1. I just started using Urethane over lacquer and so far I like the results. It shoots over most all finishes and decals with little drama. Do your homework and protect yourself if you decide to go this route.
  2. Thought I would post some pics of a car I built many moons ago. the glue is getting brittle and its falling apart in places plus its a bit dusty. The "shovel Nose" is a bit out there now days.. Ive learned alot about cutting and chopping since this one was built and I'm look at doing another one someday.
  3. Yea, I like it.... Now, I wound up with a bit of trash in the trunk. Can this stuff be sanded and polished back out???
  4. Just got back from Disney and I am just able to read all the comments. First, I want to thank everyone for the responses even the unwarranted ones . I will give this paint a go and see how it sprays and lays down, Thanks everyone..... By the way RatRod: do you thin it beyond how you mix it prior to spraying...
  5. Thank you Fletch. One question though. I have been told to spray at much higher pressure 50-60 psi. how are you getting it to spray at 15-20 psi
  6. Thanks for all the info guys. One thing I would like to know Treehugger is if that is the gun you use to spray with or is it just a primer gun.
  7. What I'm saying here guys is the components and compound that make up this paint I make. so I am well aware of the dangers involved. Please lets not let this deteriorate into an OSHA subject. I just want to know how this stuff sprays and if there are any tips to to it. and if anyone has used it in can form before I purchase the paint in qts. THANKS!!!
  8. OK guys, I said before I HAVE RESPIRATORY PROTECTION. I work for the worlds largest oil, gas and chemical co. I have in my possession the absolute top of the line 3m brand full and half face models with access to as many organic/chemical and HEPA combination filters I can carry home (which by the way should be replaced after each use in an 8 hr day by TWA usage (not by breakthrough alone). By OSHA requirements I have to be specially fitted for ANNUALLY. Not one that you just go to the paint house and buy. IT IS CUSTOM FITTED TO MY FAT FACE... These are all at my disposal. The top left one is the same full face model I have in my possession. The one below it is the half face I have. kapish BTW How long have those filters been out of the package there treehugger I also Have access to tyvek chemical suits if I need them...
  9. HAHA no problem. I'm really like you said, just trying to progress and it seems like a good time to try something new. I don't know what will happen but it cant get any worse right
  10. Im down close to coast so it a wet heat. We have had heat index's well above the 100 deg for all of june and now july...
  11. Thanks Guys, Tree Hugger I have had great luck with HoK paints. Its just recently That I'm having issues with HoK's eating the decals. Thought this might be a good time try something new... Not my first rodeo...
  12. Thanks Nitro, I don't expect this to get nasty as I'm asking about switching to urethanes. If folks want to be close minded about it start another thread and stay out of this one
  13. So true Dave. Look up Rat rod on eBay and you will inevitably find a S-10 with flat black paint and red wheels. Nice start by the way... you should do it in an east coast style, low and unchopped....
  14. Ahh NAPA here does have it. I was there today but they had only one guy there that knew about the paints and he was at lunch. It was only available in 1 gal that I could see...
  15. Thanks Gramps. YES I am aware of wearing a respirator, I made mention of it in my first post . Yes what I bought is a true urethane, It has a inner cavity in the can that must be pierced to mix the reducer with the clear and has a pot life of 24 hours. AGAIN this is a one time try as I plan to move over to urethane if it doesn't mangle decals. No Morgans around here. I figured not many have used this, its primarily a trial by fire for me to see if I like it or not....
  16. Thanks Ernest, I looked at your album and you are correct, your finishes are not heavy at all. Have you shot this paint over slixx ( I think you may have answered this in a PM to me ) I went on a search today And could not find any urethane clears in quarts except at sherwin williams (which I know NOTHING About). There is a TASCO here that carries primarily PPG and HoK and I use that on my 1:1 cars (just not urethane) I will ask about omni by the quart and see what they can come up with. The gallon with reducer was over $100 which more than I need and as you said will go bad before I use it all....
  17. Ok Guys, I have been contemplating stepping into the urethane world for a while and with the recent destruction of my 1st attempt at clearing my saddleback car I just dont want to deal with it again. I have always shot HoK lacquers over my slixx decals with no ill affects but recently I have been having hell with them cracking and just not lying right under the clear. I have talked with Slixx a few times about it and We came to the conclusion that it might be their process or my heavy handed painting style. In other words no real answer. SO I have been looking at Urethane and man its not cheap. Im looking at over $100 to buy in albeit that would be probably a one time purchase as a gallon of clear would last forever. So I found this on line and found a supplier here in my small town that carried it. Still not cheap at $20 for a single use can of urethane. Has anyone used this stuff in can form and what were your results. this is a one time buy as if I like it I will invest in a three part system that Nitrojunkie has been talking to me about. any tips secrets except using a respirator. thanks for the help...
  18. Here's my machine: its a Pfingst motor with flex shaft and head. Its pretty vintage. My Grandfather was a jeweler and when he died He left all his jewelry tools and work table for me. Its all pretty sentimental as most of the tools are over 50 years old. I even still use his old foot controller. Perfect control and speed and never melt anything. They aren't cheap to replace all of it would be about $200 and the company is still around. . I hope I never have any trouble with it as I feel I get some of my abilities from using his tools..
  19. Got the color and decals laid down. I'll be shooting the clear in about a week...
  20. Thank you Clay. Thank you....
  21. Thanks for the input Nitro Junkie. I look into it on a later build...
  22. excellent cars Hondo
  23. M.A.S. is alive and well being run by a member her Terry Kinnear or f.o.t.k. He also has a store on eBay and is quick to ship and easy to deal with.... Customs by Terry
  24. I reduce my own lacquers and generally have no trouble with it. My problem was the slixx decals puckering on me when I shot the clear and that was my own fault as I put too much clear on too fast and didn't give it ample time to tack up nor did I mist it on. I would love to use urethane, My problem is I have not seen one urethane finish that didn't look "heavy" on a model. Sure the shine is out of site but I never have liked the build up from it. Maybe its just been the builders. I already get heavy handed with paint and I'm afraid that I would lose the tolerances in opening features with it.... Thanks anyway...
  25. Very nice work Dennis, I guess I missed this thread early on. I really like the forethought that has gone into this build rather than a shotgun effect. Your work to accurately replicate a true traditional hot rod is great. keep it up....
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