Psychographic

Eric, you don't need a better printer as you have the skills to finish off what the printer couldn't. Yes it would save work to have a cleaner print, but right now you are way ahead of most of us with being able to do this type of work. I want to learn how to make files for printing, my problem is learning from reading. I'm much more of a learn from example type of person. Thanks for sharing the link to what you use.

Nice looking truck Kerry. I have to ask, you did all that work and all Flintstone gave you is an extra body?

Looking at the pic of the car you want to replicate, and then looking at what I know is available as far as woodies, I would scratch build the back of the car. I think the work involved to modify an existing kit would be more than just building it from scratch.

A string of bad luck got me here.

I think this is the first version of this kit that I like, I don't find the stock kit attractive at all.

Just curious. Appearance wise (other than the lower bulkhead) is this any different than shortening the roof of the stock kit?

For those of you who are able to create files for printing, could you recommend an affordable program that is not too difficult to learn?

Not only do you have a great eye for what looks good, and the talent to pull it off, you have some very fun tools to play with.

If the Super Clean doesn't work, try 91% alcohol. Warming either of them gets them working faster.

They have to catch you first! Just don't pick a route with any turns in it, and bring some extra fuel with you.

I don't do Christmas myself, but in case one of you has some extra money and need to get something for your favorite Gearhead,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, http://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/bangshift1320-online-find/the-famoso-speed-shop-1930-bantam-comp-coupe-altered-is-for-sale/

I'll be following along to see this built as it should be. As a kid, I loved everything U.N.C.L.E., I watched the show religiously, and had all the paperbacks. You really should have titled this "The Spy Car Affair"! I bought a body and engine for this kit from ebay, but mine is far from stock and barely resembles the stock kit. It's amazing how just adding wheelwells to it can change the look of it.

I agree with what everyone has said except for the magnet thing (I seriously doubt any paint manufacturer would used something that can rust). Beside that, it's doubtful you would ever get all off the flakes out of the paint, and just the slightest amount of flake left would ruin your paintjob. Basically it's just not practical to remove them, plus you are almost guaranteed to alter the color once the metallic flakes are removed. Just a suggestion for a cheap alternative, nail polish. It can be found for as little as a buck a jar, and the colors available or just about limitless. If you do decide to try NP, remember that it is formulated to brush on a thick coat, so it might be very transparent when thinned to spray. I've had great success with craft acrylic as a base coat.

I've made it perfectly clear I don't want to cut my own. I said it in my first post, then again in a reply. So for anyone to reply with the cut your own, is not helping the matter. I'm not trying to be mean, just posting what I had hoped would be obvious. I also know about different types of tape, I've been doing custom paint on 1:1 cars for most of my life. Thanks Frank, this helps a lot. I've been to Line O Tape's site and it's pretty much useless when it comes to finding a specific product.

Sorry if my reply was taken as a snotty remark, it wasn't meant that way. I had explained why I didn't want to cut my own in the original post.

I already explained why.

Unless it's aluminum foil, I seriously doubt if you are cutting metal with one of these. I have an old Roland plotter and the best I've done with it is score .020 sheet styrene to snap at the score lines.

I decided not to lengthen the hood as it would be difficult to find a place for a hinge. I did decide to add the spike the older beetles had.

It works faster if you warm it.

You have no idea how many times the word pinstriping is written as pinstripping, it drives me crazy!

Sorry. double post.

Gotcha. I'm using a house brand lacquer for my models along with thier house brand lacquer thinner that I buy 5 gallons at a time to save money. I have no problems with crazing, even if I thin the "You know what" out of it. The house brand is a rebranded product. If you want, I can see if I can find the parent company, maybe it would be available out your way.

I put a small lamp in a box with a hole cut in the top that my Tupperware fits into. I've also shimmed the tub to sit above one of those plug in mug warmers for small parts with great success.

If you don't use lacquer primer, what are you using that crazes the paint? Etching, epoxy?

Has anyone tried to use Line O Tape's 1/64" pinstriping tape for masking? I'm going to need some very thin tape for masking. I know some tapes just don't like having solvents applied to them, usually the problem is adhesive left after removing, but some just won't come off at all. If not the L.O.T., maybe you've found another tape that would work and could suggest. It has to be able to make a tight radius without lifting once the paint hits it. I've tried cutting my own crepe masking tape, but it's a PITA to make and I'd rather have a whole roll of something on hand.