Greg Wann

I have not been watching the olympics. My wife turned the cable off. Fred Flinstone had The Great Gazoo from the planet Zetox pop in ocassionally and called Fred DUMB DUMB.

WOW!! That is some awesome scratch building work. GOOD JOB!

http://enterprisemission.com/ Here is some cool stuff about mars from a guy that worked for NASA,. His name is Richard Hoagland. He talks about the face on Mars and something way over my head called HYPER DIMENSIONAL PHYSICS. He is a guest on COAST TO COAST AM with George Noory. It used to be the Art Bell show or something like that. He says the face on Mars is the same face that is on the Sphinx in Egypt.

I made an attempt to use the temporary glue on the wheel and cap but could not get it centered as perfectly as I would like so I am just claying them up as separate parts. I was going to show putting the lesson to the test but since I understand that you understand, I understand that I won't need to bother.

Wayne, Do you still plan to cast the wheel and cap as one piece? If it is not too late you may try two glued together and two not glued together. Here's why. Once your mold is made the mold will have very fine detail making these two parts look separate. That is the definition in the mold I would look for. This makes the silicone in this area very thin and it can be a week point in the mold. It could actually become caught in your master parts and tear out when your master is removed. I would inspect them very carefully under a magnifier before beginning this mold. You could also mix a small amount of silicone, let it cure in that area and then pull out the cured part to see what it will look like. Just a suggestion. I am amazed where silicone will go and not go into detail of parts. Once you get to the point of spraying mold release in to make part two of the mold take Q-tips and remove all the mold release you can from the masters surface. Silicone won't stick there anyway but it will see every bit of detail if the mold release is rough there. In this scale a rough area on a wheel will look bad. I have a set of these wheels. I stripped the chrome and that lacquer finish from them. The chrome covers a good bit of detail on the dog dish cap. Greg

That does really suck. Someone around here was knocking out small windows in garage doors and taking a long pole and pulling the emergency cord and lifting the garage door up and getting in like that. One of our club members was a victim. He said a neighbor lady happen to see them in action very early in the morning. She asked the guy what the hell he was doing and he pulled a gun on her! OOPS! They did get some of his stuff while he was asleep.

http://www.rocketfin..._car_links.html Put this in your favorites file to bookmark it.

So, what you are saying is that the silicone you are using does not fully cure against your master tire, is that correct? I don't even know what the silicone is I use! I get it from Aeromarine in Cali. I use the one that has a purple activator. I don't have any curing problems.

That is really cool. I do like Buicks Model Car Garage makes a nice photo etch set. I bought a set for my build and was able to paint the red in the badges just like the real thing. It really makes the build pop! It is an expensive pe set though, I think about twenty bucks. I have tried to take pics of the detail to post elsewhere in the past but I don't think my camera is that good, I'm not such a great photographer either. 70 exterior color choices were Apollo white or Saturn yellow.

You're welcome,Wayne The original Greg Wann, thank God there is only one of us!

http://www.sulky.com...x_adhesives.php I tried to edit my above post without success. Here is a product that might be useful for such an endeavor. It came with a Decal Pro FX kit. Yes, you will need clay. Art has mentioned another brand but I don't know where to purchase it. I buy a repackaged Klean Klay from Alumilite. It is the best deal I can find on the net. If you have a Hobby Town near you they might order it in to save you some postage. I had a Hobby Town order in some rubbery resin for my toilet plunger project and they saved me postage but it is a hour drive from my home so I'm not sure it was a great idea. I think Joann Fabrics carries the Sulky products. Michaels does not for some odd reason.

http://smcbofphx.pro...lay&thread=1163 Wayne, There should be enogh info here to show what I do. I have glued items together with Elmers. Once you are done with the mold proccess you can soak them in water to get them apart.

Hello Danno, Yes, Yes, I have those on my to do list. I think it is the same items. You would know or you would not have called me. They would be quick to do if I could just stay focused. I have been working on some special projects and getting my Cosma Ray molds in order and some new ones made. Turns out the molds are going to be less work than I presumed. My wife also has me on the house remodel detail. I have been several days cleaning the edges of tile so that it can be finally grouted after about 8 years of unfinished work. I will get on those wheels.

I set my table on a set of those appliance rollers so I could move it back and forth. It raised it to a more comfortable hieght too. I created some shelving and attached it so that it sets on top of the table and then created some more shelving out of four inch wide boards that give me about four inches between the shelves, these shelves were created to hold molds. I attached this to the back side of the shelves on the table and put wheels on it so that it all glides back and forth with the table so if I need a certain mold I can pull the table back and get it.

I have a 30 some year back ground in plumbing and those years have been spent at two major universities, Purdue and ASU in Tempe, AZ. In all my years I don't think I have seen a unit that could do Pressure and vacuum, but some pump may exist. I'm not sure if a autoclave could be used as a vucuum tank and pressure pot by switching valves around between pumps or not. I did build a vacuum chamber that works just fine but I have still not taken the time to build a frame so that the lid can be forced tight to hold the 40 PSI I need to cast. You might look at Ebay to see some scientific equipment that might be available. It would still cost a good chunk of change though. You might get on a science forum and ask. I just remembered that Harbor freight sells some kind of gizmo that you hook up to a air compressor that is somehow supposed to create a vacuum. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html You would still need a tank of some sort.

You would need the vacuum chamber to de-air the liquid silicone before pouring it in the mold box. You need the pressure pot to crush bubbles in the resin once you have poured it into the mold. I only make two part molds. Since you have experience in this kind of work you will see it's neccessity. I do forget that there are 1 to 1 silicones. What is important to me about silicone is what it costs per pound to ship it to my door. I buy 44 pound kits that are under 10 bucks a pound. I started using SMOOTH-ON 300 resin. My hot water is enough to make the stuff give and bend to become deformed much too easily. Alcohol rubbed on it will damage the surface. After a club member bought a kit from another resin caster and had it in his trunk during a 30 minute cross town drive to a build session it warped beyond repair. That got my attention. I found the TASK 8. I'm very happy with it. I made a special plumbing tool out of this stuff. It sets all day in a closed Dodge Caravan at work in the hot sun. It is not affected at all by that kind of heat. When I first made it and left it in the van I grabbed it up and gave it a squeeze and it was still hard as a rock. I find this as a great advantage for someone traveling to a model show. All those dedicated hours to a project only to have it melt out of shape. BIG BUMMER!

Richard, I sent you a PM. When it comes to mixing a batch of silicone the amount of silicone and the amount of activator mixed with the silicone is quite relevant. Make certain you have a good accurate scale and that you mix the silicone per instruction. I would suggest that you mix small batches to make certain that is does allow all the bubbles to escape. It would be a good idea to mix a small amount and pour it over your part to allow a thin skin of silicone to cure to insure that you don't get a bubble forming next to your part. If you mixed a big batch, a big batch for me is 300 ML plus the 30 plus ML of activator that I add, it would be too thick to allow all the bubbles to escape. Bubbles would be trapped in the silicone because it cured to quickly. The more activator you add the quicker it cures. If you are thinking about a pressure pot go to a Goodwill store and find a stovetop pressure cooker to convert to a pot. Make certain your finished mold actually fits inside of it when it is finished. You can cut the corners off to make it fit if you need to. I like these because the lid has about a 1/8th turn to lock it closed and slam the liquid resin inside with about 50 pounds of pressure. Those big pressure pots with those fiddly things that need to be pulled over a latch and tightened down are too time consuming. There are resins that do have a pretty lengthy cure time. Go to a Harbor Freight store and buy a vacuum pump. Be certain to get the extended warranty. The best deal for a vacuum chamber might be the one that Allumilite sells or build your own as I have done myself. Once you have some silicone and some resin on hand you can make all kinds of cool stuff with some time and patience. I use SMOOTH-ON TASK 8 resin. Once cured it will withstand a fair amount of heat and will be mostly chemical proof. Here is a link to a board I post some of my resin work on. http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rs

It would seem like a no brainer and would sell well. I would certainly buy a couple. The kit makers keep pounding out hardtop kits. They did it in the 1/16 scale TOO BIG for me. They did it in 1/32 scale, too small for me. They need a nice one in 1/25 scale to be just right. I attempted to start this project in a resin form using a PRO Modeler kit. I gave the parts to a fellow model club member who took a real shine to the project so he could create a nice uptop for it. That's been about three years ago. I have not seen or heard from him but once since who said "I'm still working on it"

Very Cool! Now what are you going to do with the other 300 of those little yellow thingys??

I am really confused at what this guys first name is. Is it David or is it Stacey? Does he lurk or post on this board?

I have mailed items to Canada cheaper than I have across the USA. Same size box and pretty much the same weight.

Wes and his wife have attended our Desert Scale Classic. Perhaps someone from my area will know. Uncertain what state he is from.

Very nice finished model and very nice pics of it too.

Even if you could polish a turd it would still smell like one!

Henweigh