Bill J

Really look good. I'll be glad to get the chance to build one of them. A nice piece of semi-forgotten muscle car history. Thank you for making them Kevin.

Apologies on my wonky wheel comment. I did not realize they were a representation of a hubcap, to me they looked like an open wheel that was too shallow. I vaguely remember seeing "open wheel" hubcaps on cars back in the day. Overall, Moebius is making some great kits of some great subjects and doing them well. I just bought a 54 Hudson Hornet Special, another cool kit. Looking forward to every kit you're coming up with, never a poor subject and all have multiple possibilities. Keep them coming!

Moebius makes some great kits but most of their wheels are in serious need of help. The wheels on the Merc look especially out of whack.

Out of the 3 years of the original style Charger, the 70 is my least favorite. For anyone wanting to make a stock 70 Charger using parts from the 68 and 69 kits that will work with the exception of the hood. If this new tool 70 comes with a big hole in the hood, the hood from the 68 and 69 may physically fit but they are different than the 70 hood. The recessed scallops are wider on the 70 Charger than the 68/69. I cannot for the life of me see why the kit makers think the movie/TV cars are "fantastic", I avoid them as much as possible.

Really nice job on the Black Widow. I built the same one about 6 months ago and had a fun time with it. I also did the exhaust through the frame, modded the front seat and used the PPP tires and wheels. Love those old Chevy's. Yours came out really super nice

Very nice Plymouth, makes me want to build one someday.

Cool Hudson, nice color combo and details.

Great work on the Hudson, looks super.

Super sweet Impala! Outstanding results.

Home from the DSC. early, I'm afraid I will have to get a report later on the winners. Really great to see everyone and all the great builds on the tables. There were some real beauties. Always a pleasure to see all the enthusiastic folks and see their latest creations. I had the opportunity to meet some board members that I didn't know, the name tags really were a great idea and looked very nice. When I got home there was a great new Lance Seller's 1966 A.J. Foyt Lotus 38 Indy car kit in my mailbox. Resin and very well done. Looking forward to the challenge. So, other than feeling like I a ran a marathon today, it was an outstanding day. Thank you to all my fellow Cactus Car Modelers for putting on a super contest and swap meet. Danno did a stellar job organizing and making this all happen, along with our other club members. A fun day!!

Cyclone looks great!

I really don't care for a Foose make over. He and others ruin a lot of nice classic cars to make their two tone trash. I wonder why Revell thinks his work is so awesome??

I would take a few more cold days. I have my AC on already because of all the 80 to 90 degree days we've had lately. Hope it is a nice cool day for the DSC.

It's a big stack of those Asian kits that Jonathan has hoarded....

I scored one of the 59 Biscayne resins also and plan to build the 60 Daytona winner too. So far I have a 59 Impala donor kit, the decals for the Junior Johnson Daytona car and the wheels and tires from Plastic Performance Parts. Best I can tell, the 60 Daytona winner used Goodyear tires. There is Goodyear tire decals on the car above the Daytona Kennel Club lettering o the rear quarter panel. The pit picture above also shows the stripe on the tire sidewall of the guy coming over the pit wall. Firestones from that year did not have a stripe on them.

Actually the camera made the Talladega look much darker. The blue is the one recommended, over gray primer and looks like every 1:1 Petty car I have ever seen in real life. I just double checked my paint number and it was TS-23 Light Blue.

Tamiya TS-10 TS-23 Light Blue sprayed over Tamiya grey primer. I have used it over white primer but the color really looks best over grey primer. Perfect match for Petty blue. No clear coat required and one of the easiest paints I have found to work with. The camera made the car look much darker than it is in person.

Jesse, your Cobra is totally amazing! I am beyond impressed! I had the chance to see in person the Cobra works in progress of Bob Peeble's before they all went to the model cars museum. Very detailed for correctness and a work of pure love for the cars. A tragedy that he didn't get to finish them.

That FRS is a great little car, very fun to drive, the power to weight ratio and being rear wheel drive will make you a believer. In the real world, the car is already badged as a Toyota, they also make one badged as another brand, I forget which. For some reason in the USA Toyota decided to badge the car as a Scion instead of as a Toyota. Perhaps to boost the Scion image. If I was looking for a 2 seat, really fun little car, I would not hesitate to buy a FRS. Nice looking too. To be practical, I will keep my Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and not buy a 2 seater anytime soon.

I will be there with my fellow Cactus members. So a nametag would be great, thank you Brad for the nametags! I am really looking forward to the contest, always a fun time.

Ok, you made a purchase of gear that will likely work but it is not the top of the line for airbrushing gear. Like someone else above has said, the airbrush is likely clogged with thick paint or dried paint. Clean it thoroughly first. A hardware store should have some fittings that will allow you to reposition the regulator and tighten it up. The most critical thing about using an airbrush it the mixture of the media, the paint. Too much thinner and it will run, not cover well and give poor results. Too little thinner and the paint will spray poorly, leave a dull, rough finish and make airbrushing seem like a waste of time and money. A couple of tips that I have learned along the way, when buying an airbrush make sure it is "solvent" proof. That means can you clean it with strong solvents like lacquer thinner. If it is not solvent proof, the seals and other parts of it will melt in the solvent. Not good. The little compressors like the one in your picture are not that much fun to use, they are very noisy and the thing must run constantly while painting. It is hard to maintain the exact same pressure at the airbrush because the compressor is likely not able to keep up, it pulses as a result. Plus the loud noise is distracting. Gravity feed airbrushes are designed for illustrators using inks, not for model painting with paints, which are thicker. You can get a different nozzle and needle for paints but as a general rule, gravity feeders come with small nozzles and fine needles to use with inks. I for one, do not use one and prefer the quick change of bottles. Do not think that a particular type of airbrush is the solve all that will turn paint jobs into works of art. My personal recommendation for a good setup for a beginner is a Paasche VL set with all nozzle/needle sizes included, under $100. A silent compressor with a small air tank is a huge help. I recently bought one off Amazon with a regulator, a small tank built in and it is nearly totally silent. I can paint all day without any distracting noise. Cost me $100, shipped. A few things I consider important for successful airbrushing is a good cleaning kit of brushes and some spare seals. The biggest thing to a good paint job is good paints. While there are great paints available today, some require a lot more skill and experience to use. The mixing is critical and the thinners are very specific for a particular paint brand/type. Try so me pre-thinned. airbrush ready paints, that way you can see what results are possible without learning the thinning process. You can learn to mix paints and thinners as you go. A good rule is to use thinner made specifically for the paints. Such as Testor's Model Master enamel and Testor's Model Master thinner, directions are on the thinner can for general guidance. Have fun and good luck!

Packard is my vote. They built a lot of fine cars and some real eye catchers. The only kits I know of are from a few thirties cars. I love the late 40's Packards but never a kit

We have plenty of choices here in the Phoenix area. The one place that I like most to eat in the world is only in Missouri,, Lambert's Café. If anyone has ever eaten there you'll know what I mean. They throw fresh rolls to you all the time and serve more than you could ever eat, with free seconds, food heaven!

In Arizona we have In and Out, Culver's, Five Guys and Steak and Shake. I prefer Five Guys over the others. I have a Culver's within a mile of my house but quit going there. I went a lot when they first opened but the price would go up each trip, for the same burger. I do not like mayonnaise or any facsimile on a hamburger and trying every trip to In and Out to have their salad dressing left off, they always smear it on anyway. I have not tried Steak and Shake, 15 or more miles away. I do like Five Guys, they put whatever you ask for on a freshly made burger and their meat is good. The fries are good to me but I can't eat that many, so seldom order any. I like White Castle but they are not in this area, unfortunately. Harold and Kumar cannot be wrong!

Thank you Danno for the kind offer. As it turns out the Scalefinishes paints arrived this afternoon. I am done with models until I return from my annual Christmas road trip. Would have gotten a few done if the paint had gotten here sooner but I did work on other things and just pushed some to the back of the calendar.