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Some of the great things about this kit as opposed to the original one is the dual exhaust, not that you can't make your own, just easier. On the sleeper build I used the larger diameter wheels and slicks from the first issue of the '57 Ford coupe kit. Tight fit but didn't have to narrow the rear end either. I robed the blower setup off of the Buick Stage II kit. The suspension is fairly easy to lower as needed.

I'm a big fan of the subject and have built a few. Very happy with the way it builds up with no real problems I didn't create on my own. I did a resin fastback in blue as that is my favorite body style. I also built a sleeper coupe with a blown engine all under the stock hood and only some slicks to give it away. Another as a '50's era CHP black & white.

Great paint color and trim, good name.

Great looking factory hot rod truck. Smooth looking paint work and the contrasting interior color looks good. Like the stance.

Great looking basic car and colors to match. Cleanly detailed trim and interior. Nice to see the "leaning tower of power" get some respect.

Great looking paint color and trim finishes. Like the stance.

Great looking color and interior combination. Clean looking chrome trim.

Another great looking Porsche build. Like the body color and interior finishes.

Great looking paint color and finish. The interior changes are so well done it is a shame they so hidden from view.

Beautiful looking finishes throughout. The stance along with the rolling stock really captures the Street Rod look.

Beautiful paint finish and body trim. Liked watching your film on the build and seeing all of the detailing of the engine that you did on this build.

Like the wheels and stance. I had forgotten how good the colors on this looked.

Those are the ones I mentioned.

There is as many ways to go about your masking dilemma as there are members on the forum. I can only suggest the way I tend to do it, but I also look forward to hearing what other suggest since that is how we all learn. I try to outline any body trim at the same time as defining the body panel lines. I often even tape off the chrome trim to help keep any designs on the trim and save any distinct character lines. When masking for a two-tone paint schema I'll also mask over the chrome trim masking to help prevent any bleed through under the tape. As for color painting sequence like you're doing I might paint the entire body white if the second color was not a real dark shade. This may give the second color a brighter base and make it brighter to the eye than a gray or black primer and also save some on the second color that way. When masking the second color before spraying the color coat give a light dusting of a gloss clear around the edges and allow to dry. This will also help prevent any paint color bleeding. All of this requires a lot of good masking tape and careful planning, but the extra effort is worth while in the end.

These hub caps look just like the OEM hub caps in the AMT '57 Chrysler 300C kit.

Great looking clean and realistic looking body and paint finishes.

Great looking paint color and finish. The changes to the body styling look far better than what the kit provided.

Great looking color and how you just can see the flames. Like the engine and chassis detailing.

Like the body conversion and the paint design and color looks spot on. You didn't mention the engine, but I remember when a lot of guys were putting V-8's in Pintos and Vegas, they were very hot in their day. Like the wheel-tire combination and the stans.

Beautiful looking paint finish and color. The interior and engine detailing looks great. Very cleanly detailed trim and window moldings.

Beautiful looking paint finish and one of the best all time colors. Like the unusual and well detailed engine.

Great looking paint colors and finishes especially considering what you had to start with. Lots of great looking chrome trim and finishes.

Very impressive fabrication work here, and realistic looking finishes.

Alway enjoy seeing pictures of the shows in your area. What I like the most is the wide variety of vehicles that show up and the level of finish on them.

A thought on a winter driver, may no longer apply as it was a long time ago in the latter part of the last century. I would buy some $50 to $100 dollar car just to drive in the winter months. I could usually sell it off in the spring often for more than I paid for them. These weren't the most desirable cars and often large heavy more door sedans seemed to work well but still very serviceable for the job at hand. Very few cars of that era had anything resembling a locking differential or even front wheel drive. A set of oversized snow tread recaps and a few midnight parking lot practice sessions to learn how they would handle in the snow and ice. That part was sort of fun anyway. As for the sandbags, we all put them in the kickup over the differential in the trunk. The absolutely best car ever in the winter of 1966 was a '53 Buick Special with the straight eight and Dynaflow transmission.