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In the past I have used some of the following: Chmneyville Hobbies, KA Models @‌ ka-models.com, Ken's Real-Wood adhesive back wood veneer, Ultrcal 5 @‌ innovativehobbysupply.com. You might also check with Gofer Decals. they seem to be coming up with something new all the time.

I would suggest that you actually go ahead and primer again before you go to a color coat. An example, I'm now finishing a kit that has given me fits and one of the problems has been paint. I've had to do the hood over several times. I also get in a hurry and actually cost myself more time. The hood needed sanding after I put to heavy a coat of paint and it started to run. I let dry for a couple of days and then sanded it all the way to 3600 grit and then reapplied a coat of color. Bigger than life you could see where I had sanded. I again sanded the hood as smooth as I could, sprayed primer, sanded the primer and then the color coat. Now it turned out perfect. One of the reasons for using primer is to fill all of the micro scratches you just can't see. Since you're doing all this work over again anyway think about giving that a try. The nozzle thing, at least for my self, seems to center around the use for Model Master Enamels. The lacquers not so much. I really like how your wood trim has turned out.

Beautiful Squad build. I looked on your link and enjoyed the '67 wagon also. I didn't know that CPD used 6 cylinder cars. I'm sure it saved the city on operating expenses but if that had to chase a "Purp", say a "J" Walker or something they would be at a disadvantage.

In addition to all the great info on surface preparation you said you were disappointed in the paint finish. You have been experiencing colder weather than we have here and that may be playing a part of your problem. From the photo it looks like the paint is either to "dry" when it reaches the body surface or maybe the spray nozzle is partially blocked. If you haven't tried already, soak the nozzle in thinner and clean with a very fine pin to clean the nozzle. Before spraying set the spray can in very warm water only about 1" to 2" deep. Let set there for at least 5 minuets. It is a good idea to shake the can periodically during this time. You want to be sure that the area you are painting in has an ambient temperature of at least 60 degrees or warmer. When you spray the body you want to be sure that you hold the spray can less than a foot away. Like you I paint most of my models with spray cans still. By doing that in this manner the color sanding and polishing has been minimal. Hope this will help.

At least the Manufacture is reputable, the supplier not so much.

Thank you for the info. I have one of these Cougar kits but just never got around to building it.

If you go with the shorter wheel base version you could use the Trans Axle from a front wheel drive Cadillac Eldorado or an Oldsmobile Toronado.

Interesting and very creative conversion. Could you share the reason for the floor boards being changed ? Also the Yellow Chassis looks like the rear wheel base is just a little short. I have not built this model, but wonder what the short comings are on the engine bay ?

I have to agree with the three piece rear window designs looks. As for the '58 Pontiac it took on the heavy look of all the General Motors line at that time. The models that I think suffered the most were the Buick and Oldsmobile, it seemed as if The General couldn't through enough chrome on them. You're right Bill, but it would be very easy to make a "Vert" out of a hardtop.

I agree with the money theory. Tony left Joe Gibbs Racing when they switched to Toyota. At that time Tony said it was because he wanted to stay with Chevrolet. How true that was is any ones guess. Tony had used Chevrolet engines in all of his sprint cars and other forms of racing for years, so this may have been true. I can see where he may be on a more level playing field with Ford, but it still is about the money. He really should look to some better qualified drivers going forward if he ever expects his team to really be competitive in the future.

I'm not a big NASCAR builder, but I'll be doing a couple of these.

Great looking Trans Am. Nice to see a different color combo.

Your doing a great save here. The color choice will really show off the body lines. I'm not sure that a vinyl roof would help the look, it would chop off the flow of the roof where it would meet the trunk. If you're going for the showroom look I think that Ford offered the GT type stripes, that you would usually see on a Torino, on the full size Fords. This may give you an option if you think the body really needs it.

Great job on the chop and the window moldings are very impressive.

Nice looking wagon and I also like the flames. Did you use a mask to create them or did you make your own ?

If the Nova SS kit purchase is not something you want to do, think about the '57 Chevrolet Black Widow. The kit has two different engines and transmissions. The basic small block with a manual transmission and another block with the Powergluide transmission. There is only one set of heads and intake choices. The advantage to the Nova SS would be to giving you the proper exhaust manifolds or even headers if you wanted to do that.

I also would like to see Moebius or Revell do something in this area. My thought is that if they did say the '57 Pontiac they could offer a hardtop and or a post two door. Then they could make a Safari wagon off of the basic tooling. The same could be done with both the Buick and the Oldsmobile as a hardtop and then the four door hardtop wagons. It would be a big investment in time and money, but from all the comments here it sounds as though it would be a financially successful thing for them to do.

There is a TV program here called Bitchin Rides and is centered on the custom work from Kindig-it Design. If you look on Youtube under Bitchin Rides they have several of the cars he has done. The one to look for is called Blue Suede Shoes. They redo a '59 Buick Invicta and it is done in a two tone. You might look for it for some ideas.

Really like the interior.

The vinyl top was vary common extra cost option on almost everything in that era. With the chrome on this model I think I would have the top match the body, that way it doesn't detract from the beautiful lines of the car. The idea of the interior in a similar red color would add a richness that you might not get with a lighter color. You might try and simulate a cloth interior. Chrysler offered some beautiful color combinations at that time, with a little looking around you might find something you didn't even think they offered.

I think the sink marks were just the quality of the day. They just didn't have the technology that we all now take for granted. This should be a real nice easy build with the detailing knowledge you have now. Since you're going to build it as a showroom model, the tutone paint on OEM Buicks could be had two different ways. The most common was to have the roof painted the lighter contrasting color. The less common seen style was to paint the roof and the top of the trunk and top of the fins the lighter color. The moldings along the fins provide the dividing line between the different colors. The bottom edge of the trunk lid provided the end point. The area below the trunk lid and around the license plate/gas filler area would be the same color as the main part of the body. I'll enjoy watching this build.

By the time you have checked your gauges you're in the ditch.

In this very section you are now posting in. In fact it is directly above your post.

Check The After Market Directory. Several of the casters listed there cater to the type of equipment you are looking for.

If you have not tried it yet, you can build the exhaust by using hollow plastic tubing with a copper wire inside. This is easy to bend and will hold its shape. Aluminum tubing will often kink when bent in a tight arc. I like the Aluminum tubing on the very end because it can be easily polished and looks just like and exhaust tip.