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On one hand this is not a bad idea if you are looking for one another. On the other hand I was under the impression that the reason for not having any builder recognition on the display info was to keep the judging impartial. Maybe a board where you could post your presence at the show and contact information like a cell phone number. Then you could see if someone is present or not.

The six cylinder is a pleasant surprise and the colors work well. I understand you were trying to make a 210 rather than a Bel Air. The trim differences between the too is that the 210 didn't have the chrome trim on the front fenders and doors. Also the Bel Air lettering behind the door on the quarter panel would not be there. The interior would not be as nice either. And has been pointed out the V-8 emblems under the tail lights would be gone on a 6 cylinder model. Beyond all that it is a great looking model and you should be proud of your build.

I have had very good luck with Tamiya primers. The white is a little thin but does cover. If you want to get a very fine primer you might look at Mr. Surfacer primers. While a little more expensive they come in different ratings. I'll use the 1200 for a final prep before the first coat of color.

Great detailing thru out. Beautiful build.

Are you going to have room for the radiator in front of the engine with the hood closed ? Many years ago I saw a 1:1 Bug that someone put a small block Chevy in. Just some thoughts that you may use. The builder had it very stock looking from the outside with little more than some larger passenger car tires on the rear. The car was a very dark green and you almost didn't notice some narrow (about 1" to 1 1/2") wide slots in the hood. This allowed enough air to get to the radiator mounted where the stock spare tire would have been. He had a Muncie 4-speed and a narrowed Chevy rear end. He had stock VW hub caps and trim rings on the wheels and narrow white wall tires all around. This was in the mid 60's so that was not out of place at the time.

Nice build. A thought on the paint issue. You might want to strip the paint and start over. Try and stay with one brand of paint products to minimize any future issues there. On lowering, the method that has worked best for myself is to try and use the same methods that 1:1 builds follow. You can take the front spindles and move the wheel attachment point up almost to the top of the upright. The attachment in the kit I believe is smaller than the wheels you are using anyway and this would be an easy way to adapt the two together. It looks like you may be getting into a personalized "Christine" and if this is the way you're going you might look at changing the rear wheel openings. With the model sitting so low you almost don't see the rear wheels. Consider making a paper or tape template of the rear wheel opening and move it up to just under the side moldings. Using the stock shape with the raised opening you would see the rear wheels and tires without loss of the OEM look.

That would work, how much ?

Perfect "day two" car from that era. I have to agree with the others these just looked over done with the bumper guards. Great paint with just the right stance.

Wow. I didn't know that kit could be built to look that good.

Well done and I like your roadway with guard rails. It looks like you're in Hawaii with that back drop.

Love the color choice, the side windows now look perfect. Looking to see how this turn out.

Depending on the size of the part I'll use "alligator clips" or a product called Micro Stix which are small plastic sticks with a sticky end and sometimes just tape that's doubled over and one side holds the part and the other can attached too a stick or another alligator clip.

This is what happens when you have more dollars than sense. A real shame.

It has been sighted at the B&N in Lea Wood (pronounced Leeea Wooood localy) I still purchase my issue from my local hobby shop out of support for them.

Are you going to make a 4 wheel drive system or keep it a 2 wheel drive ? Looks like a fun build either way.

You might repost in the Trading Post and some one will see this for sure.

Great job on replicating the side mount spare. This was not a common option in many areas but would be very useful if your going to have to dig in the snow or mud to get the spare to change a flat. Many "working" trucks would sometimes have a fabric cover or a metal cover much like a Continental Kit with the business name on it.

Off to a good start, the injector stacks might be a little tall but it all depends on what you want.

I wouldn't remove the roof. If you look at your picture you can see that the side window could be corrected by trimming the front part of the opening and adding just a little bit to the rear of the opening. This sort splits the difference so that it matches the alignment with the rear and front windows. If you have one of the Revell California Wheels kits they usually have both a stock and lowered suspension for the front and the rear. That way you could still build the donor kit as well. If you got say the '56 or '57 Chevy you could use the rear also since the differential is mounted above the leaf springs. You may have to notch the rear frame for clearance.

I watched this build and it turned out fantastic. As for side view mirrors some people may not realize that they were not required until 1966. They were optional equipment before that. New cars usually don't have license plates until they are registered, and you have MS ? Man I hope my build looks this good and I've only been told I'm nuts.

The "nose" still looks a little high. This is a common problem with this kit. The grill surround sits to high and needs to be trimmed where it meets the front fenders. I fought this on both of the ones I built even using the stock grill.

A thought on the white painted inserts, This was a common tutone paint treatment on the 210 model Chevrolet. I owned a 210 hardtop many many years ago, the side trim that the Bel Airs had was a brushed aluminum with the gold Bel Air wording. The 210 did not have the brushed aluminum trim and was usually painted to match the top color. If you wanted to change your model to depict a 210 you could sand the ribbing in the insert smooth and use chrome trim instead of gold on all other trim like the grill and front fender "gills" and hood and trunk trim. One other trim change if you want to make it a 210 is the chrome spear on top of the rear fins are shorter on the 210 than on the Bel Air. For your dash trim you might try some aluminum silver paint. On the 1:1 the dash trim was brushed aluminum with a black wash to show the bow tie emblems that were embossed in the aluminum trim.

Great looking subject, as others have pointed out there are several items you're going to want to address. One thought on the front suspension, since you already raided the SSR kit for the engine you might think about using the front suspension also. If you have any other coil spring suspension system in you spare parts box you could use that also. Just as the Pro Touring trucks in 1:1 use independent front suspension it is the easiest way to go. The window fitment is a real problem for the windshield. I fought it for a while until I saw where others here were making a small molding around the opening to fill the gaps. This will give you something for the windshield to rest upon and looks very realistic. The side window openings are just wrong. Not hard to correct though. I really like the picture of the truck your using for your inspiration, if I had the ware with all that's what I would do. I look forward to your build on this.

You might check out Scale Motorsports products. I've used their interior decals and have been very pleased with them. They also offer Carbon Fiber decals, although I have not tried those yet.

What a fantastic model. After looking at the links I wish I could read German. It's hard to fully appreciate the design effort that went into this. This is truly a scale model in every way. Now if you could just get the ignition to work and the engine to fire up you really could drive away in this.