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Just a thought if you haven't already cut the body. Depending on what look you're going for. You could leave the rear fenders on the body and using the bed as a guide you could gauge just how far the bed is to go into the body or just extending the bed beyond the rear bumper. This could give it some what of a Fleetside look. GM at one time offered a kit for the early Chevrolets where the trunk lid was removed and a pickup bed was inserted into that area. With your concern about the wheel base consider placing the bed where you want it and aligning the wheel base before cutting the body. Maybe an El Camino look or if you want to stay with the "Rat Look" place the entire bed, fenders and all where it needs to be, then cut the body where ever that lines up and build a flat bulkhead for the rear of the cab and maybe even include the stock rear window or an open screen rear window. This looks like it will be a fun build, wish I had thought of it.

Looks like something out of the new car sales catalog.

Maybe someone from Ohio can provide you with the exact color of Silver they use, but it may just be the standard Silver Mt. from Dodge. If you have some clear plastic lenses for your safety lights I would think that Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue would work fine. You may have to use a couple light coats to get the desired effect. I would use the brush rather that the spray and paint on the inside of the lens rather than the outside.

Never had that problem with our 110 Lb. Yellow Lab. Always made sure he had lots of those rawhide chew sticks from Pets Smart. Dogs are just like a five year old trapped in those furry little bodies.

Looks like you're off to a good start. I'm sure you're test fitting all of the body panels, but on the ones I have built the grill shell and the hood sometimes are difficult to line up with the front fenders and the body. Depending on the era of your build, most of the early builds still had the bench seat in the pictures I've seen. Just before and after WWII there just was not a lot of money and every thing was cobbled together with what ever you could find. You might Google the " Salt Flats " or even " Land Speed Racing " just to see if there is any pictures that may give you ideas.

Well it seems that I may be wrong on this.

On one hand this is not a bad idea if you are looking for one another. On the other hand I was under the impression that the reason for not having any builder recognition on the display info was to keep the judging impartial. Maybe a board where you could post your presence at the show and contact information like a cell phone number. Then you could see if someone is present or not.

The six cylinder is a pleasant surprise and the colors work well. I understand you were trying to make a 210 rather than a Bel Air. The trim differences between the too is that the 210 didn't have the chrome trim on the front fenders and doors. Also the Bel Air lettering behind the door on the quarter panel would not be there. The interior would not be as nice either. And has been pointed out the V-8 emblems under the tail lights would be gone on a 6 cylinder model. Beyond all that it is a great looking model and you should be proud of your build.

I have had very good luck with Tamiya primers. The white is a little thin but does cover. If you want to get a very fine primer you might look at Mr. Surfacer primers. While a little more expensive they come in different ratings. I'll use the 1200 for a final prep before the first coat of color.

Great detailing thru out. Beautiful build.

Are you going to have room for the radiator in front of the engine with the hood closed ? Many years ago I saw a 1:1 Bug that someone put a small block Chevy in. Just some thoughts that you may use. The builder had it very stock looking from the outside with little more than some larger passenger car tires on the rear. The car was a very dark green and you almost didn't notice some narrow (about 1" to 1 1/2") wide slots in the hood. This allowed enough air to get to the radiator mounted where the stock spare tire would have been. He had a Muncie 4-speed and a narrowed Chevy rear end. He had stock VW hub caps and trim rings on the wheels and narrow white wall tires all around. This was in the mid 60's so that was not out of place at the time.

Nice build. A thought on the paint issue. You might want to strip the paint and start over. Try and stay with one brand of paint products to minimize any future issues there. On lowering, the method that has worked best for myself is to try and use the same methods that 1:1 builds follow. You can take the front spindles and move the wheel attachment point up almost to the top of the upright. The attachment in the kit I believe is smaller than the wheels you are using anyway and this would be an easy way to adapt the two together. It looks like you may be getting into a personalized "Christine" and if this is the way you're going you might look at changing the rear wheel openings. With the model sitting so low you almost don't see the rear wheels. Consider making a paper or tape template of the rear wheel opening and move it up to just under the side moldings. Using the stock shape with the raised opening you would see the rear wheels and tires without loss of the OEM look.

That would work, how much ?

Perfect "day two" car from that era. I have to agree with the others these just looked over done with the bumper guards. Great paint with just the right stance.

Wow. I didn't know that kit could be built to look that good.

Well done and I like your roadway with guard rails. It looks like you're in Hawaii with that back drop.

Love the color choice, the side windows now look perfect. Looking to see how this turn out.

Depending on the size of the part I'll use "alligator clips" or a product called Micro Stix which are small plastic sticks with a sticky end and sometimes just tape that's doubled over and one side holds the part and the other can attached too a stick or another alligator clip.

This is what happens when you have more dollars than sense. A real shame.

It has been sighted at the B&N in Lea Wood (pronounced Leeea Wooood localy) I still purchase my issue from my local hobby shop out of support for them.

Are you going to make a 4 wheel drive system or keep it a 2 wheel drive ? Looks like a fun build either way.

You might repost in the Trading Post and some one will see this for sure.

Great job on replicating the side mount spare. This was not a common option in many areas but would be very useful if your going to have to dig in the snow or mud to get the spare to change a flat. Many "working" trucks would sometimes have a fabric cover or a metal cover much like a Continental Kit with the business name on it.

Off to a good start, the injector stacks might be a little tall but it all depends on what you want.

I wouldn't remove the roof. If you look at your picture you can see that the side window could be corrected by trimming the front part of the opening and adding just a little bit to the rear of the opening. This sort splits the difference so that it matches the alignment with the rear and front windows. If you have one of the Revell California Wheels kits they usually have both a stock and lowered suspension for the front and the rear. That way you could still build the donor kit as well. If you got say the '56 or '57 Chevy you could use the rear also since the differential is mounted above the leaf springs. You may have to notch the rear frame for clearance.