Zoom Zoom

Don't know, I don't have a dog in this hunt, no interest in that one. Maybe a '73 conversion for Revell's snap kit MC or some Cosworth Vega stuff.

https://canuck3d.ca/product/?cd3--009

When using a new/$$ product it pays dividends to not get three steps ahead before you find a failure. Think ahead. What are your plans for base color and accent? Test the process out on a spare part before jumping into painting an entire project and finding out something didn't work. There's a learning curve to these new chrome paints. They do what they do. There are work-arounds that can be achieved. You didn't give yourself or the chrome paint a decent chance for success. I spend a lot of time before/during a build doing research on the subject and potential new materials/techniques to try. The extra time is worth it. Sometimes you have to slow down and smell the roses vs. plowing straight through them...

Still working for me, I think...posting shared link from Fotki:

This is true with Revell's Chrom as well as the chrome inks from at least AK and Molotow. They all are pigment dense and require a heavy coat for the reflections to look authentic, it doesn't matter whatsoever what color the plastic is underneath. As long as it's smooth/shiny/clean, parts sprayed (or brush painted) will look fine without any gloss black base coat. Modelers as a group are thoroughly entrenched in old-school methods that Alclad II chrome required (smooth part, apply gloss black enamel, then chrome) or Spaz Stix chrome (Tamiya LP or TS gloss black base) that they continue to use those gloss black base coats that are completely unnecessary. But if it makes 'em feel good/confident, they'll be fine regardless. I don't use enamels anymore and I like saving my Tamiya LP-1 gloss black for shiny black bodies and I might use a chrome plating service for models that deserve the best finish on bumpers.

Never have had that particular kit, just the glue kit w/T-tops. I have several of the Revell/Monogram backdated '70 T/A kits, roof arch is good, drip rail area needs some careful reshaping (no putty needed, just removing material).

Honestly it's exactly what I was expecting. I don't want to be negative, but I know from owning/building enough of them that Revell products run the gamut and one never knows until a kit comes out if it's a winner or a dud or somewhere in between. I already have the T-top version of the kit, if I want it w/a solid roof I already know how to do a roof graft similar to what I did on the 1/24th T/A kit used with my C1 restomod project. The last Revell kit I built (the '71 Mach I) is a brilliant kit from design to execution to assembly. Their snap-kit VW Westfalia camper I built was a great kit, so much fun to detail out and looks killer when built, and Tim Kolankiewicz showed everyone how to build it in the pages of MCM, including the stocking trick for making the open camper top look realistic. Then Revell kind of borked the new-tool 007 Aston Martin, it's also a snap kit but it definitely wasn't treated to the same level of design competency nor parts quality. It can look good built, a club member did an amazing job on his, but it required some very heavy lifting and finishing skills.

My QC control manager Ichiro checking out a mockup of a 1/4 scale Mazda RX-792P wooden tire/barrel w/3D filament printed BBS insert. Converting two work-horse former wind tunnel models for Jim Downing in his shop into "looks like the real car" painted models w/liveries. This one is a rear wheel for the 792, unfortunately the wood used wasn't great and they didn't even try to round out the sidewalls. Jim wants to go w/this, I airbrushed some gray to give it some visual highlights. I've already filled the woodgrain. The four-rotor RX7 GTO I'm also working on has far better wooden tires/barrels. One of the shop guys printed me the BBS inserts, not exact for either car but more than decent for what Jim wants.

Secretly hoping one of the Chevies is a stock an/or restomod '65 Nova sedan. And will be awaiting to see what happens w/the Maverick and I assume Comet projects...the C10 is a must-have. Secretly hoping you have a deal with Foose to make a model of his amazing C/28 project 😁

I go to the Dayton Ohio area about 3 times/year. Over the Xmas holiday, again in mid-March, and again in mid-September. It's like an entirely different world there in mid-September, everything is lush, green and beautiful...in December and March it's just cold, gray and barren of any foliage of any kind.

I followed directions, logged in w/email, changed my password, easy-peasy and everything works smoothly on both my laptop and phone.

That came out quite nice, I like the wheel swap. The Fujimi kit wasn't available for a long time, when I finally saw a real 117 locally it was quite striking, not only in style but in photos it looks like a much larger car than it actually is. They are tiny! Eventually Hasegawa offered their all-new 117 and I've build one of the first variant (it's a brilliant kit, goes together nicely, almost Tamiya-level) and bought one of the later versions to modify into something a little more evocative of the Italian style that these cars have. They were rare, mostly hand-built at least earlier on in the production cycle.

Interested potentially in the coupe. Will the instruction manuals be updated/modified more like the current Moebius car/truck kits? That's one area these kits suffered, old-school instruction manuals w/o any reference to colors. I know it's easy to search the internet these days for real cars (auction websites are amazing in this regard, I add bookmarks in folders like crazy when working on a project) vs. when these kits were originally issued, but I have also appreciated that Moebius does a good job showing photos of the built models along with color reference. That kind of thing would definitely improve upon these Chevy originals!

I had forgotten that it was a Revell kit vs. Monogram, and that makes a lot of sense why the design is so poor.

With 60 parts it better have side mirrors 😂

That old Jeep PU...am I the only one that is bothered by the horrendous front end design of the kit? Even though the subject is pretty square, Monogram took that to the extreme, completely ignoring the fact that the leading edge of the hood should point subtly downward, but the kit was designed so square that it visually points upward and the grille as a result is comically too tall, as a result making it look overly narrow in overall width. I have no real issue with it being a very simple, basic kit, but they entirely screwed up the "face" of the Jeep. I just sold off my recent reissue of the kit, despite the cool new decals I had zero desire to even attempt to fix the fenders, hood, grille to look even remotely correct.

If they're planning new tooling I vote for the BMW E9 range, Street and race. Just imagine a 3.0 CS/CSL done like their 240ZG/240Z street custom. Plus plenty of reissue possibilities w/the E24 6 series and various race cars.

Typically tragic Revell decision of marketing vs. modelers if it's actually the Fujimi kit. The Fujimi kit is rubbish. It shared a generic chassis w/a Benz 190E (the Benz kit at least didn't suffer as much visually as the M3), has a very chopped roofline, and other strange decisions by Fujimi from the early 90's. But nope, let's do fresh printed graphics, a new box, and charge new-kit prices on an old kit that's worth about ten bucks in reality. That said, their money is likely being spent far more wisely on the 2025 Mustang GT, McLaren 750S, and Lambo Revuelto. It seems their C8 Corvettes are quite popular, I've see a lot of them built nicely on display at model shows and even at my local club meetings.

Mine arrived today too!

I'd use a fresh silver Sharpie to pick out the raised ribs and call it a day.

It's most likely your local Hobbytown thing (I don't really like the chain at all, we have the largest one in the country and some of their empty paint slots and complete lack of others, yet every Gundam paint known to mankind are all well-stocked tell me they don't really care about model car guys, having a bunch of kits isn't much good if you don't have the right stuff to go with them) than an actual price we can find it elsewhere. That's easily double what I see it selling for by model show vendors or some online sources. It's good stuff.

Tamiya pearl white is very translucent. Tamiya White Base in a (small) rattle can is amazing, it covers much better than their fine white rattle can primer. It would be perfect under pearl white. It dries to a nice, semigloss/satin finish. So smooth too. It allows painting a variety of molded plastic colors to all have the same base color of white so you don't have variations in color, especially on a body. Bubbles are from spraying too close to the model. I learned this the hard way years ago. Pull back a bit, and resist trying to flood the model too quickly for gloss. Tamiya rattle cans are best used in several steps of fine mist coats allowed to dry a few minute between coats, only applying wetter coats near the end. It self-levels quite nicely, when you hit the sweet spot the paint is very, very smooth. Takes a bit of practice, but worth it.

I recently spoke with Tim Kidwell about the issue, since I'm not doing magazine articles anymore I've only been using my iPhone for model photography. The #1 issue w/most builders is getting up too close to the subject, distorting the perspective and depth of field. Stand further away and shoot the model then use the phone's editing features to zoom in/crop the background. The overall shot will not have as much distortion. While my phone's editing is decent, my MacBook's built in editor is far superior at editing after I've taken the photos. Good lighting from the start helps. The better/newer the phone is also helps.

The new-tool '68's are wider in front than the vintage kits and Revell's kits, some heavy lifting will be required. I was also comparing the new tool El Caminos with my extra '68 GTO and again the extra width of the Mueller-era Elky was going to make that conversion more complicated than expected. At some point IIRC (around 2016) AMT/Round2 fixed the B pillar sink mark issue that plagued the earlier runs when they also added back the vintage Soap Box Derby racer.

Looks ready to dominate the next RADwood event 😎 Great color choices. I built this one back when it was a new kit, stupidly traded it off to a friend but kept the stock version I'd built. I keep scouring vendor tables for the same kind of "closet cleaning" deal you got for yours. Tamiya has been recently reissuing some of their oldies (Mugen CRX w/updated decals, Alfa GTV, R5 Turbo, about to reissue Honda City Turbo), so maybe they'll bring this one back out.