Zoom Zoom

Thanks! Paint is Tamiya TS-9 British Green, I primed body in white & painted the nose gloss white & masked it off to shoot the green (masking was a bit haphazard, as the white was very poorly applied on the real race car, or it may have been tape).

It is only meant to glue styrene to styrene...gluing plastic parts together before paint. It's not meant for general kit construction.

Strada is a retailer, not the producer. KA models (from Korea) make this detail kit.

oh dam i fogot about them but there liek soap carvigns N E whey

A friend built the Cunningham & loved building it; he had to adjust the front ride height. Not sure what he used to match the blue stripe color. It came out very nice. I built the D Type, nice simple kit. Make sure where the upper/lower part of the body mate that it's a good join; if there is any mismatch, fix it before you paint. Cutting/fitting the windscreen is the hardest thing on the D-type. I built it during the 24 hours of LeMans, we start with primed/cleaned bodies & go from there. My D Type Build Album

well o kay i dont think that 1 been done B4

As you can see by now, there are many opinions on the "best" clear. The "best" clear is the one that works the "best" for you personally. Of all the options, you'll have to find what sounds best to you, practice, and learn over time how to get the best results. My favorite used to be Testors/Model Master enamel clear (airbrushed...I never trust their spray can enamel...ever). It airbrushes & buffs out beautifully, in those respects it's the nicest/easiest paint I've ever worked with. But...I don't like the slow-dry nature (a dehydrator is the great equalizer), the way it gets & stays "sticky" after it's cured when handling (it's very soft paint that the oils from your skin/fingers will affect), and the tendency to yellow with age, which will change certain colors over time. I have seen silver turn platinum/gold, white turn soft yellow, blues turn almost turquoise over time. I have one old Pontiac that I shot with a really light lavender contrast color inside/out. Outside the lavender is now gray, inside (without clear) is the original color. On occasion I still use enamels. Future works well enough when you need a non-reactive clear. It's just weird how it sprays. It's almost thinner than water; I always laugh when I see the inevitable "how do I thin Future?" question...my best session spraying it was after leaving the open jar of Future in the dehydrator for a couple hours before shooting it. You can't wetsand it, you can dry-sand and buff. Some people report cracking/yellowing over time. I've seen amazing results from it being brushed on rather than sprayed. It just takes practice as it works differently than most paints. It doesn't dry to the same sort of rock-solid finish as other clears, but it dries so fast & looks great, and if you screw it up you can spray it with Windex to remove it. Urethane clears have a nice shine that looks wet after applied, but personally I don't care for them for my use. All too often I see evidence on finished models of it drying to a much thicker film than other clears; to me if it looks like it's dipped in clear, it's just really shiny & thick & not a particularly authentic "in scale" finish. It tends to gather around panel lines, sometimes fills them in. It is extremely toxic stuff to breathe (all paints are toxic, urethane is much worse than others). Not only that, but if you do have to sand/buff out any dust, it dries so hard that it's much more work (aka elbow grease) to buff out compared to more traditional enamels & lacquers. Urethane users swear by it, because of the high-shine w/o much secondary work. A friend swears by it because he claims he doesn't have the time to spend 2 hours buffing out every paint job. Yet his models show all the negative signs I mention (thick, filled in panel lines), and dust nibs that look ginormous because he doesn't level them & polish them out. I avoid it because of the long-term health issues, the fact that I want to level & buff out my paint for the best scale appearance, and my ability to forget to clean out my airbrush when I'm done with it. Urethane must be cleaned out immediately before it cures. Tamiya TS13 clear is my current favorite by a wide margin. Tamiya lacquers "shrink to fit", so you can put a lot of paint on and as it cures it rarely will fill in detail. It demands smooth coats from primer through color, and responds accordingly to wet sanding between coats and traditional methods of building up primer/color/clear in layers. The smoother the color, the smoother the clear. And Tamiya's own compounds, from coarse to fine to finish & then wax, work perfectly with their own paint. Often a light scuff with wet sandpaper is all you need to polish it out to an amazing shine with their compound (20-30 mins. is my average time to scuff/buff the final coat of clear; darker colors require more finesse & time). My usual method is to decant the clear, apply it w/airbrush in thin coats, working up to thicker/wetter coats. Often I follow this with one good wet coat from a fresh can. Works amazingly well, buffs amazingly well, no cracking, no yellowing. Wish it was cheaper & wish it cured slightly harder, but I'm quite satisfied with it. I shoot it over lacquers, either Tamiya/Testors or automotive colors. Don't shoot it over enamels! If you want a nice "out of the spray can" clear, you really can't beat either Tamiya TS13 clear or Testors "One Coat" or Model Master clear lacquer. With the right preparation, work, and practice, nearly any clear will give you nice results. Your style will determine what works best.

And the tire sidewalls are quite different...but I honed in on the wheels first, the spokes look too big. Odd, because one would think in 1/8 scale they could do them more accurately with smaller spokes. I'm not really a fan of these wooden body cars. I'd rather have a 1/8 scale wooden Chris Craft boat...though I do have a nice 1/24 scale Dumas wooden Chris Craft waiting for the day for me to get inspired

Nice model! Great color choice.

Model info?? I knew it was real (the wheels were the immediate giveaway), but I wanna know who did the model!

Neat model. Not wild about the swirlie wheels...I'd probably have gone for Hella's About 20 years ago, on my ride home from work, there was an accident that I passed. It was tragic...basically this same car, a mint-condition (looked new) pre-63 Falcon coupe, black with red interior, poverty caps & whitewalls, had run into the back of another car. The Falcon's driver was a gray-haired lady that looked like your typical "old school" school teacher. The Falcon's front end was completely crumpled...such a sad end to a car that had survived over 25 years of driving while still looking brand-new.

Thank you! It's about time, and very much appreciated.

That's just krazy kool what you did w/the 'vette Might even be my all-time favorite TK model Can't wait to see it in Anniston. I wanna do something like this with a Miata :D

Beautiful model, perfect thread

Hmmmm...my initial gut reaction was right One thing in particular is a dead giveaway. But I still had to do some sleuthing to make sure

I thought people were already accusing him taking note of posting a bunch of dramatic nonsense instead of building. Bah bump ching.

With so much darma, where's Gregg?

;) Marcia! Marcia! Marcia!

TROJAN Someone had to say it...

He's a great guy to deal with & a good friend. One of my best friends is one of the two guys who was Two Guys Racing w/Kevin years ago.

Strada Sports has information on their website for preordering the KA GT40 parts, including photos & pricing/discount information. Strada Sports

Same day as the Birmingham AL NNL. I'll be @ that show, as usual.

Bummer. But honestly, it wasn't worth watching on Speed last year. Their coverage sucked, and considering they broadcast the races long after they were held, it really was a pretty grievous way to treat the fans. I gave up trying to follow it. So you're either screwed by Speed Channel for lousy coverage, or screwed by Comcast for withholding programming to a competitive outlet. Welcome to the new world order?

Last year the Speed World Challenge series was demoted on its own network. The coverage went from one hour per class per race, televised within a few days of the race, to a one hour recap with half-hour coverage of each class. Sometimes televised months after the actual race. If you followed the racing world, you'd read about the results long before they were televised...again, on their own bloody network! It was a frustrating & embarrassing thing to see the Barrett-NASCAR Speed Channel do this to race fans yet again. Because we all know they only want to show NASCAR talk shows with fat guys wearing headsets an endless reruns of Barrett Jackson auctions, with a few lame "not really reality" shows thrown into the mix. The series is renamed the SCCA World Challenge & is moving to the VS network because they will be given much better coverage & broadcast schedule. Though to be honest just about any local cable station or even Lifetime could do the series more justice than the ever-more-worthless Speed Channel. SCCA World Challenge Moves to VS

I doubt even Juha Airio could make a Dodge model look this real. Tons of clues make me certain this is real.