Zoom Zoom

Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Great stuff. Thick white glue (looks like Elmers, eleventy billion times stronger) that wipes clean w/water (damp cloth, damp cotton swab...to clean up excess) when still wet, dries nearly as strong as epoxy. Very similar to Microscale Krystal Klear, but has a nice applicator nozzle. Available at most hobby shops.

If there's so much mold release on the part that it feels greasy, the usual cleaners (Naptha, Westley's, Prep Sol) don't work. Don't ask me how I know this If the parts/body don't feel squeaky clean before painting...use Easy Off oven cleaner. That will cut the greasy silicone mold release once and for all.

If you or anyone else really wants opening doors, hatch & detailed door panels, consider getting the newl issued Revell AG VW Samba T1. It is a far more detailed & accurate kit than the ex-Hasegawa kit. Everything opens, everything is hinged (though the hinge pins are fragile), and all interior/door panels are molded to the body. Lots of masking, but ultimately it blows away the very simple Hasegawa kit. At today's retail prices, the new Revell kit is cheaper than Hasegawa's (recently repriced) kit.

You can Google to find Spaz Stix, you can buy it directly from them. I found mine in the R/C dept. of the local Hobbytown USA. It's an R/C-related lineup, that's why it's not commonly known by model car guys. My experience is that Spaz Stix is better; slightly more reflective, will adhere to Tamiya TS black...my Alclad looked fantastic on Tamiya TS...but it didn't stick...and that was applying over both cured & wet Tamiya TS. If you already like & use Alclad, you're good to go. If you need more...perhaps try Spaz Stix. And neither takes clearcoat without serious degradation of reflectivity. Some say Future works, not in my experience.

The Testors lacquer shouldn't require any kind of a sealer under it. You'll know after a coat or so if it does...but I doubt it. It will look better over the white.

Collector value? Only good on the day you sell it. It's worth more to you personally now that you can see it built! That's what they're really made for. Nice work I similarly defiled an unbuilt '62 HT to look like the one my Grandfather had. Much nicer than looking at a box

I have an AAM Delta 88 (I chose it over a 300...wish I'd gotten that one too at that Toledo show...I think it was '99); it's much more cleanly molded than what I see of this R&R repop. Judging by the underhood area and the body surface, it looks like the mold has a lot of wear.

It's an NNL; I wouldn't sweat it too badly if you do some modifications to the box-stock parts. If it were an IPMS contest, or if it's going to go into a contest (rather than an NNL), then I'd say "no" to your question. NNL's aren't judged by teams of judges, they're voted on popularity by the public. The idea is to have fun...and in that respect, if the build is more fun by doing what you want...then do what you want!

Pocher kits are nothing like Tamiya kits. There's a good reason you don't see many Pocher kits built; and also a good reason that many of the ones you see built fall short of "museum quality" construction & craftsmanship because their builders simply are not up to the level of professional building required to do one of these kits justice. When I was younger I assumed Pocher meant "incredible quality". After seeing a few of them built or partially built (a lot of them never get very far before being sold when the cold realization sets in that the model is never going to get done), I realized if the finished model was of "incredible quality", it was due primarily to the builder's talent and not the model itself. There may very well be easier 1:1 cars to build from box of parts than a Pocher kit.

Wow...can't believe this one got bumped up by 4 years! I can't believe it's been almost 4 years since I built the 914 A friend and I, sometime in the next couple years, will collaborate on mastering a race version w/the fender flares. We have several Revell kits to work with...will obviously simplify so it can be a complete/simple resin kit. Might be a year before we can even get started...or whether we'll do it w/the windshield or without (have the Richie Ginther kit for reference...but it's too nice/mint to use for mastering...we have parts kits to work with).

My vague recollection is the '69 Judge came first, and the '68 street machine second. Can't vouch for any differences inside without doing a dig to find my originals.

I don't think I'll build it. Everyone says the Beetle is a bit porky for it's size, but this one really knows how to bring home the bacon

Looks great I need to find some of that blue.

Did you get access to Chattahoochee to do the machining? Looks good

True. The sequence of photos...makes me wonder...photo #1, have a glass of wine, take photo. Photo #2, have a second glass, take photo. Photo #3...on to the third glass, take photo. Photo #4...you get where I'm going with this? :lol: In all seriousness...fuzzy photos aren't telling a story other than nobody can see what you are photographing. Digital photos are "free". If they aren't in focus (and your first photo is, so you are capable of it), then delete the fuzzy photos and reshoot them. Sometimes you need to step back a bit and use the telephoto to focus, rather than hold the camera too close. Macro doesn't guarantee they'll be in focus.

We have quite a few HL's around Atlanta, and it is quite clear that some are far better than others for kit selection. It all depends on the particular store. It would be awful if the only local store was one of the ones with a poor selection. But I've seen stores with a previously excellent selection slowly go downhill. Must be either a change in management, or they've seen a drop in overall sales. HL has always priced their kits slightly under full retail, but they have those sales & coupons. Occasionally a store will have a kit mis-priced. If it's that important, check with a manager, they can find out what it should sell for. AMT/Round2 kits are about to see a Revell-like spike in prices, in the range of 20-30% across the board (as claimed by a large online retailer that sells their product line). Round 2 claims they'll continue to undercut Revell. Get what you want now if you don't want to pay the larger premium in the very near future...

Is there a non-Roadrunner version of the car that the stripes would be appropriate on? Would that require a flat hood? I like the design of the car & have the RC2 version, plus a nasty old glue bomb original. I'm not necessarily demanding an exact replica, since it would never be built for anything like an IPMS contest...it more likely would end up looking close to stock or slightly "pro touring". Not sure getting another reissue is really necessary for me, I might be better off just getting the KM decals & use the dash/chassis from the glue bomb.

Very nice work, as usual

Yikes. And I get annoyed when that kind of stuff happens on dead-simple models. That is probably reason #8,792 why I didn't let myself get sucked into the trap of building Pocher models I'm sure you'll obsess over it for a few days and figure something out. Photos of the problem areas??? I know it would drive me completely bonkers until I figured it out...or shoved the project aside to work on something else.

Thanks! Paint is Tamiya TS-9 British Green, I primed body in white & painted the nose gloss white & masked it off to shoot the green (masking was a bit haphazard, as the white was very poorly applied on the real race car, or it may have been tape).

It is only meant to glue styrene to styrene...gluing plastic parts together before paint. It's not meant for general kit construction.

Strada is a retailer, not the producer. KA models (from Korea) make this detail kit.

oh dam i fogot about them but there liek soap carvigns N E whey

A friend built the Cunningham & loved building it; he had to adjust the front ride height. Not sure what he used to match the blue stripe color. It came out very nice. I built the D Type, nice simple kit. Make sure where the upper/lower part of the body mate that it's a good join; if there is any mismatch, fix it before you paint. Cutting/fitting the windscreen is the hardest thing on the D-type. I built it during the 24 hours of LeMans, we start with primed/cleaned bodies & go from there. My D Type Build Album

well o kay i dont think that 1 been done B4