Ace-Garageguy

That's what I always suggest first, and suggested in my first answer to the OP's question....and again in my second answer to the question. Quoting myself: "Without seeing photos of the front spindles, I can still assume you could cut the stub-axle off of them and relocate it higher, similar to what I described in my post above. That's the easiest way by far, if it's possible."

Love 'em both. Love the real ones too. There's a company in my state that builds Honda B-series-powered early Minis, and they're really fun cars.

Beautiful clean work.

Very nice scratch-building and fabrication, especially considering it's your first time. I like the super-slammed look of builds like this, as long as there's sufficient ground clearance to be somewhat drivable if they were real. Looking good.

Lots of info here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/68293-chevrolet-6-cylinder-engines/

The rod with the slotted end connected to the center carb is the top end. It runs to a bellcrank, visible in the photo, another rod going down to another bellcrank, then one more rod to the kickdown lever. Often replaced by a cable. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1504-the-lowdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/ Similar setup installed.

The stock Model-A wheelbase is 103.5", and I believe the new Revell kit is stretched to the 106" wheelbase of the '32 Ford. If you're interested, there's a lot of info on swapping the A crossmember and a QC rear into a '32 frame here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/59708-32-ford-roadster-gluebomb-rework-sept-8-15-back-on-track/?page=3

Very nice. Love it from the side especially.

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Yes, there's a national "do not call" registry, and it seemed to be pretty effective several years back. Now, it seems that a lot of these companies are operating in open disregard of the rules, with spoofed originating numbers and apparently, multiple business identities, frequent moving of operations-bases, etc. It doesn't help that there are really no teeth in the rules. The permissible exceptions under the list are also a joke. Allowed to call: 1) Charities seeking donations. I routinely get calls from these "charities" that, when researched, turn out to be nothing but money-makers for the solicitation company, with only a tiny fraction, if anything, actually going to the 'cause' they supposedly represent. 2) Companies you've "done business with" in the past. The trick here is to use the most tenuous links to claim a "previous business relationship" that only exists by stretching definitions to absurdity...or outright lies. 3) Politicians No comment. 4) Surveys and opinion polls. Again, the BS practice is to start off with a "survey" and segue into a sales pitch for something-or-other Because the scammers twist and reinterpret these exceptions to get around the rules, and as there's apparently zero effective enforcement, the BS continues unabted.

Scamming moron SOB phone solicitations. No, I never answer odd calls from numbers I don't recognize, or that have obviously spoofed ID data...but man...how can so many of these cretins be operating profitably enough to stay in business? I naturally put call block on all of them as they come in, but every day, there are more. Just exactly WHEN did a phone go from being for the communication convenience of the owner to an open invitation to be constantly hounded by thieving scumbags? And WHY does the FCC turn a blind eye to the abuse? Surely, with today's technology, if there was any REAL desire to put a stop to this crappola, it could easily be done.

Let's start with the front end, because it's the easiest to get to look full-scale correct. From your photos, it appears that Aoshima has intended the front wheels to be pose-able, as to steering angle. It looks like the spindles are intended to mount in the holes on the upper and lower control arms. You'll notice the upper control arm (when the chassis is sitting upright) has a cylindrical "boss" at the end the lower control arm lacks. The easiest way to get lowering here (looks like you can get between 1/16 and 1/8 inch) would be to cut the boss off the top arm, squarely and neatly, and use small-diameter plastic tube to add a boss of identical height to the lower arm. This will raise the spindle relative to the vehicle and lower the car. Without seeing photos of the front spindles, I can still assume you could cut the stub-axle off of them and relocate it higher, similar to what I described in my post above. That's the easiest way by far, if it's possible. ------------------------------------------------ It looks like the easiest way to lower the rear is going to be to remove the "tab" on the upper control arm that sticks down into the brake disc / wheel backing plate. This will allow the axle to move up in the backing plate / control arm, relative to the chassis, and result in lowering the car. This will, unfortunately, place the backing plate well off-center relative to the wheel, so you may have some interference you'll have to fix by removing material from the backing plate where it touches the wheel. If I were lowering this model, I'd glue the rear suspension together at the outboard ends, cut the backing plates off of the control arms, and relocate them upwards the amount I wanted to go lower...again, correcting any interference caused in the process. This method would leave the backing plates centered in the wheels. ----------------------------------------------- In any event, think through what you're trying to accomplish, and how moving or modifying one thing will affect something else. Work slowly and measure carefully, and make drawings or notes to keep your measurements straight in your head.

Really pretty. That side-spear foil looks beautiful too...I'm envious. Nice to see someone showing what fine results are possible with rattlecans as well. The sunken headlights look like a very possible mod someone would have done to a real one for just the reason you mention. Nice touch.

Really liking this so far, especially your very clean widening of the fenders.

Maybe the publisher should have the mags printed and bagged in China to save on costs, eh? Seems to be the accepted business model these days, and I'm sure the Chinese could wrap the mag in bulletproof Kevlar for less than the cost of a US-made-and-installed plastic bag.

Looking good, glad to see it back up.

Fine model. Love these little cars. Really admire your patience with the louvers and wheels too. Looks great.

Love it, especially the "period possible" part and those cool retractable guns.

Yes Steve, That's a perfectly reasonable expectation. Have you tried mixing the clear casting resin and pouring it into an inert glass container just to see if it will cure if it's not in contact with the mold product? Not to sound braggy, but I have rather extensive experience in composite materials, and it's rarely effective to tinker with the mix-ratios specified by the manufacturer. Generally only four things impair resin-systems from curing. 1) Temperatures below 60deg. F 2) Product well out of shelf-life 3) Contamination by some unknown substance, either in the mixing container/tools or the mold itself 4) Improper mixing ratio. If it's this product you're using, is says "overnight cure". http://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1023-Amazing-Clear-Cast.aspx Here's the TDS for it. It calls out "avoid contact with moisture and water". https://www.alumilite.com/PDFs/MSDS/Amazing-Clear-Cast.pdf

Spectacular graphics.

Very VERY nice. The color and the Countach wheels you chose suit the car very well. I've driven and worked on these and the original Uracco (from which the Silhouette was derived) as well as the Jalpa, and I think they're great cars (if slightly temperamental, like everything Italian of the period), with a transversely-mounted small V8 engine that has one of the sweetest sounds ever to come out a tailpipe. Beautiful model.

You can very often find entire clear parts trees on ebay for not much money...it just takes a little digging. There are, unfortunately, some pig-greedy sellers who try to get more for a single parts-tree than you can buy a whole kit for, so buyer beware. The old round sealed-beam headlights were only made in 7" and 5 3/4" variations...the 7" units went in 2-headlight applications and the smaller ones went in 4-headlight applications...for the most part. That means you don't have to find the exact parts for the model you have...the right diameter from anything will work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-Parts-64-Mercury-Clear-Custom-Pieces-/252120612820?hash=item3ab38f3fd4:g:V28AAOSw3ydV4-MN Clear casting-resin SHOULD work IF YOUR RESIN IS COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR MOLD MATERIAL. A clear epoxy should also work fine, with the same caveat.

Very clean, very attractive model...especially so for a first effort. Real talent showing there.

For 1/25 scale, you can order the heads and other parts from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. They're available in other scales from other sources.