Ace-Garageguy

Exactly.

I don't know what paint you used, but I can tell for sure it is way too hot to use on styrene model parts, particularly the soft junk they're using now. "Too hot" means the solvents are too aggressive, and will attack the plastic leading to the very obvious "crazing" you have here. Properly applied paint, even metallics shot "dry", isn't gritty looking like that (and clear will just make it look worse). Tamiya primer is simply not sufficiently solvent resistant to provide a barrier in a situation like this, so the paint solvent soaks through it and etches the underlying plastic...crazing...and accentuates mold-flow defects like your line in the process. To get an acceptable finish on that, all the crazing needs to be sanded out, the part needs to be re-primed with something that will provide a barrier, and you should really use a much less aggressive, less "hot" color. The hood below ghosted several times after I removed the peak and sanded out some divots, and shot it in hot Duplicolor primer. I fixed it by sanding, re-primering, sanding, re-primering, sanding, re-primering until I'd killed it. The final topcoat of hot Duplicolor looks like this. Note that it's not gritty or textured. One more thing...we constantly harp on the importance of TESTING the materials you want to use BEFORE committing to painting a model...and develop some understanding of various techniques. Painting models has become considerably more challenging of late, what with much less solvent-resistant styrene being used, so testing has become critical if you want results you can be proud of. You will also find things work much better if you stay within one product line (like Tamiya) that's made for models all the way through one job. Mixing and matching hardware store/big box store or automotive paints is a recipe for disaster until you really know what you're doing...and even then TEST FIRST is the golden rule.

"Squish" is what I'd like to do to a lot of (fill in the blank).

"Cola" beans aren't related to koalas though I've seen the words confused, so you better watch out for those cola bears.

Rescued another abandoned feral kitten, mostly white with some black blotches, about 5 weeks old. It was weak, had to hand feed it initially, but it's eating wet food on its own now, seems strong and energetic, and will probably make it. Cute little cat, not biting me anymore, but man...I've never heard any kitten meow so loud as this one. Probably take it to the vet for a general checkover/worming/flea treatment next week, then see if I can find it a home. The outdoor male feral that adopted me after its mother got squashed in the street as it was being weaned is full grown now, follows me around outdoors like a dog, seems to know the sound of my truck, and runs to greet me when I come in.

Like the man said, definitely impressive conversion work. I had to look up pix of a '60 to get an idea of how much you had to change. I'd imagine you'd sell a bunch if you decided to produce resin copies of all your modified parts.

"Ago" isn't something you can start a sentence with without resorting to convoluted syntax.

"Humid" is what I'm moving to the desert to get away from.

Very, very nice.

TRY THIS SEARCH STRING OR SOMETHING SIMILAR IN GOOGLE: model cars clear parts glue site:www.modelcarsmag.com You'll get a whole lot of hits from this very site, all on topic, going back years.

Mighty tasty burger...but the store-prepped mushroom-onion-cheddar patties I bought (which I never do unless I'm feeling really tired after a long day) were as tough as old saddle leather. Imagine a slab of this with creamy melted sharp cheddar, sliced ripe tomatoes, sweet-hot relish, German mustard, and mayo on a stone-ground whole-wheat bun and you get the idea.

One-half a worm is enough to catch a fish if you know where they're bitin', and if you don't catch a fish, at least you got some protein from the other half.

Domain changes of websites can open unforeseen cans of worms.

Beautiful work, exceptionally clean, and very well photographed.

REMEMBER AND HONOR THOSE WHO GAVE ALL FOR YOUR FREEDOM

Bad things sometimes happen to good people.

Candy is dandy but liquor is...well, you know the rest.

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Phone home.

Favorites of the power structure often get the cream, while those not so loved get the contents of the cat's box.

Most excellent. Thanks !!!

I have several of these, one as a WIP Chevy-powered Bonneville contender. That's NOT a "mold mismatch" around the rear wheel-arch. It's a flange put there specifically to mount the fender skirts. After you file down the body side parting lines, you'll need to re-scribe the door opening lines. The best way to deal with the hood gap is to file the body on the front to allow the hood the slide a little farther back. Don't overdo it. And there's some variation from body to body unfortunately. The hood hinge slots in the firewall are huge and klugey too, and really need to be filled so as not to show...with smaller more prototypically correct hinges fitted. The body is very well proportioned though, and responds beautifully to some metalwork...and the flanges for the rear skirts can be removed entirely OR minimized to the point they're almost invisible but still allow mounting the skirts with rubber cement or white glue if you want them to be removable for some reason. One more thing...I'd recommend a self-etching automotive primer for the metal parts.

"Do be do be do" sang Frank.

Beautiful model, well deserved recognition.

About time for logic, rationality, and common sense to make a big comeback.