Ace-Garageguy

Girls don't find me as attractive as they used to, and I'm pretty sure it's 'cause I quit wearing the Rolex, and I don't have a man-bun, tattoos, a murse, or a neckbeard.

Preparation-H on fisheyes may be the ultimate in nouvelle cuisine.

Contaminated surfaces are the primary cause of paint fisheyes.

Pretty much my sentiments exactly. My temperament and instinctual interests would have been a much better fit with reality had I been a young teen at the end of WWII. My collection of magazines and books from the post-war era allow me to experience vicariously something of a lifestyle I was too young to participate in at the time, and my modeling interests reflect much of that desire. I find myself longing for a past I was forever out of step with, that exists now only in "historic artifacts".

Tuberculosis was often treated in the past (for those who could afford it) by telling folks to move out West, to a warm arid environment.

I'd use PET, acrylic, or styrene for that...most likely clear PET from a soda bottle. The only reason I recommended polycarbonate above is because he needs a big flat window that's sufficiently rigid. The curve of this windshield gives plenty of rigidity without resorting to polycarbonate.

Bar not my access to the bar, for I have a powerful thirst.

Mine eyes have seen things I'd rather not remember, but some stuff you just can't forget.

I've read lotsa online reviews. Some folks love it and say it performs exactly as advertised. Unfortunately, the average slob with ten thumbs seems to be able to overcome the designed-in idiot-proofing with great success.

Yup, nice. The tread plate bed looks right. Is that part of the kit?

Treasure hunters sometimes get lucky.

"Forward into the dragon's lair, me hearties" cried the one-eyed peg-legged swashbuckler.

IIRC, the earliest cars also had generators as opposed to alternators...but I could be wrong. EDIT: Yup. Quick research indicates the 64.5 cars built through July or August of 1964 had generators, then all later cars got alternators. EDIT 2: More differences... https://www.motortrend.com/news/mustang-1964/

Quoting from the web page linked below: "Unfortunately, plastic chrome plating is not as simple as applying a coat of chrome to the part. Typically, we will first coat the part with a layer of copper or nickel through a process called electro-less plating. This means that we do not use an electric current to apply the plating. Applying this coating makes the part conducive, which makes it possible to apply the chrome plating later on." Whole process here (this is NOT vacuum metalizing): https://www.vacuum-metalizing.com/plastic-chrome-plating/ EDIT: Electro-less nickel plating, including on non-conductive materials... https://hcsplating.com/resources/nickel-plating-guide/electroless-vs-electrolytic-nickel-plating/ EDIT 2: After the electro-less plating is applied, either copper or nickel (apparently copper in Trumpeter's case), plastic parts can be electroplated with actual chrome in the usual way.

Mix me a drink, shweetheart, unlesh you think I've a'ready had too mush.

90210 makes me think unpleasant thoughts...

Red toothbrush handles, clear red acrylic sheet and rod, red sprue... sheet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/223129528702 square rod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293306513107 round rod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/291595083823

Agreed. No point reinventing the wheel when the old one still rolls just fine. I would personally probably not use a 2K clear on a model, because the film build is designed to be thick enough to withstand fairly aggressive mechanical sanding and polishing after two to three coats. In the hands of many modelers, it yields a dipped-in-syrup look I detest. That's NOT to say you can't make it work beautifully for models, but it takes experimentation with reducers and spray technique...and if you leave catalyzed product in your spraygun or airbrush, you'll be buying a new one.

Many factors determine when a specific clear is "fully cured" but the vast majority of professional-grade products can be color-sanded and polished entirely safely after 24 hours. "Fast" hardeners and reducers can accelerate this to a few hours or less, as will temperature. Urethane clears may indeed not reach "full cure" where they have developed maximum hardness and solvent resistance for 30 days, and some may exhibit "dieback" minor gloss loss, or shrinking in that time...but that will all go away with another quick polish job. Best thing to do is READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW THE TDS FOR EACH SPECIFIC PRODUCT and don't make assumptions based on internet recommendations from people who heard from their hairdresser's dog's groomer's boyfriend's father's uncle that something is some such.

Sentence structure pedantry does allow for a one word exclamation to be considered a sentence, so yes.

No. We use it for real car repair work specifically because it through-cures quickly via catalytic reaction, so we can deliver a car the same day it's painted. Paint in the morning, wetsand and buff the next morning AT THE LATEST if necessary...which it rarely is because our painter is very good. If we had to wait "weeks" we'd be out of business. EDIT: Granted, "full cure" where the product has achieved maximum hardness and solvent resistance can take days or weeks, but it was specifically developed to allow a vehicle to be returned to service ASAP...and it works beautifully for that if used correctly.

Anybody who's having drying issues with a 2K urethane product is doing something wrong. The REASON we use it for REAL-CAR REPAIR WORK is that it through-cures QUICKLY by catalytic action instead of evaporation. We can paint a repair panel at noon and deliver the car the same evening. The chemistry is the same for all true 2K urethanes.

"Pumpkin eater" is the end of the kiddie taunt starting with "cheater cheater".

Very nice.