Ace-Garageguy

I started something similar back in 2016. You can see the beginnings of the suicide front-end mockup. A lot of the build thread was about Zeeing the frame front and rear to get exactly the desired stance and still have adequate ground clearance to drive the thing if it was real. You might get some more ideas.

Too easy. I'm out.

Hmmmmmmm...saving a few pennies here and there, which is universal corporate policy now...or maybe figuring if they're too small to show up in photos they can dodge contingency payouts?

Here's another thread showing the same basic idea, but not in so much detail. Scroll about 1/3 way down the first page...and remember: mocking up the look you want and then measuring accurately is essential, just like building a real car.

It's really pretty simple once you understand exactly what you need to do. The below is copied directly from some of my build threads (start with a tubular front crossmember, and then mockup your model at the desired ride height for the look you want, and do some careful measuring): "Some careful measuring gave me the amount of drop I'd need on the suicide-style front-axle mount (above the top of the frame rails)." "To mount the axle to the frame, I'll be using a "suicide" style perch. Here I've started making it up from 2 sections of styrene channel. I left the forward leg long to get a good idea of the alignment of the perch with the frame rails. I like things that are square and symmetrical." "In this shot, the perch has been trimmed to its final configuration. The mount pad is 1.7mm higher than the tops of the frame rails, which is what that earlier figuring told me I'd need." "Here, the axle has been tacked to the mount, and the 4-link bars set in place to mark their bracket locations on the frame rails. This shot also shows that the last of the horrible gluey mess between the rear rails has been removed cleanly." One more reminder: getting the look you want doesn't just happen by randomly cutting and fitting. It takes careful mockups, measuring, and adjustment of several parameters, just exactly like building real cars...which is where I learned the stuff.

I've done several build threads showing how. Gimme a minute or two...

Modelers also please note: while the ultimate high-performance Weber setups for inline fours and sixes use multiple sidedraft carbs... ...single sidedraft manifolds are also available. Manifolds for downdraft carbs are also available for some inline applications (2 examples below), though sidedraft carbs are usually preferred because they allow for straighter manifold runners. Also note: there are both downdraft and sidedraft Weber manifolds for many V8 applications, and the carbs are NOT interchangeable. Also note, my remarks are relevant to the ultimate high-performance Weber designs, not the carbs intended for moderate performance street applications, as below. .

Correct. Downdrafts won't work as sidedrafts and sidedrafts won't work as downdrafts, they look somewhat different because they are different, and anyone who knows Webers will spot the difference (even on a model) immediately. EDIT: Unfortunately, that hasn't stopped a few kits from supplying the wrong ones for their supposed application. And modelers please note: using a sidedraft as a downdraft (or vice versa) is as wrong as mounting a Holley 4bbl upside down.

I like it. But it seems like they could have done a better job integrating the fuel filler door.

Photo copies notwithstanding, I see we have a participant in the post above them who seems to be confusing the rules of the "one sentence game" with the rules of the "once upon a time" game.

I would have created a means to pin the windshield to the body before painting, then attached it with the pins and a little white glue afterwards. I've used that method several times. It just takes very careful measuring and drilling. EDIT: I pinned this windshield frame early in the mockup process, as it was integral to the look I was after, and it also had to be removable, but go back in exactly the same place every time. I didn't show the process though, as this was the first one I did that way, and I wasn't 100% sure it would work as intended...so I didn't photograph the process. The pins are literally that, short point sections of straight pins glued into the frame, fitting into corresponding holes in the body. Windshield still fits dead-on after all the bodywork and paint on the main body was finished:

"Pecans is sometimes pronounced "PEE cans".

From post-and-beam to pecans, pecan wood is great for woodworking, beautiful, hard, and strong, and the scraps work very well for smoking food.

Post and beam construction has always appealed to me.

Sumpin like this'll take care o' those pesky birds...

Brownies hot and fresh out of the oven, swimming in hot fudge sauce, with a big cold glass of milk would be nice right about now.

Never mind.

Toidi I goit a loit done, and mayboi I'll get moire done tomorrow.

"Number be too hard" is a sentence that might be uttered by an idiot.

The momentum of thoughtful, well considered suggestions seems to have pretty well petered out. While waiting for the powers-that-be to decide and announce how it will be going forward, somehow a little levity crept into the discussion. Can't have any of that.

Yeah. What's next indeed?

I like heem. Lots.

"Times" is frequently the incorrect interpretation for the letter "X", like when "journalists" write about magnification, where the right interpretation is "power", as in an 8x lens is an 8 power lens, not an eight times lens...unless you're 5, in which case it's an excusable mistake.