Ace-Garageguy

Pretty much my exact thoughts.

Bent rules are one thing, but just ignoring them for whatever reason...and I have my suspicions as to why...is something else entirely.

One's a '58, of that much I'm certain. I'm 98% sure the other one's '57. They both look for all the world like a factory promo, with excellent (but obviously not sanded or buffed) two-tone paint jobs and the same perfectly-masked silver paint treatment of body chrome as I've seen on other promos that were most definitely acetate. Neither one looks at all like it was done by a modeler, unless he was VERY good at replicating factory promo finishes.

Sorry. It got kinda loaded up today. I cleared a couple just now...and found one from you back in 2018 that it looks like I never responded to. My sincere apologies, sir.

Yup, really really cool.

"No one is more hated than he who speaks the truth" Plato "Truth sounds like hate to those who hate the truth" Todd Wagner

I have an acetate early '50s Pontiac promo that was badly warped when I bought it, it continued to warp, then started breaking into chunks, and the body now is literally dust. I also have two late '50s Oldsmobile promos that I assumed would be acetate, but they have not warped or shrunk at all. I can only surmise the non-warped ones are made from something other than acetate, which as far as I'm aware, will continue to deteriorate forever.

World events sometimes defy rational explanations.

DUH double post.

There's no one-size-fits-all linkage setup for Webers because of the wide variety of possible applications. The video below is a typical twin DCO-series installation.

DCOE: For Weber carburetors, DCOE stands for "Doppio Corpo Orizzontale", an Italian phrase meaning "Double Body Horizontal" with the "E" standing for the specific generation. The DCO series carbs are all sidedraft, two venturi designs. Common DCO carbs include 40, 42, 45, 48, 48/50SP, and 55SP sizes, with the number referring a tuner to available replaceable venturis for the specific body casting. IDF: IDF stands for "Invertire Doppio", an Italian phrase meaning "Inverted Double", with the "F" referring to the fact that the basic design was introduced on a Fiat engine (in the mid 1960s). The IDF series carbs are all downdraft, two venturi designs. IDF carbs have been made in 36, 38, 40, 44, and 48 sizes, with the number also referring to a range of replaceable venturi sizes. IDA: There are also IDA downdrafts intended primarily for racing that are not generally recommended for street use...which never stops anyone. Weber designations and numbering can be confusing. EDIT: There are other Weber carb designs besides the DCO and IDF/IDA series, but these two are the ones modelers will most likely be presented with. 3-barrel downdrafts for the Porsche 911 flat six (and some V-12 engines) are also fairly commonly encountered by modelers, in the IDA, IDS, IDAP, and IDTP models. And there are also carbs similar to various Webers from manufacturers Solex, Dellorto and Zenith.

28 RULES OF COMBAT (They never taught you) You are not Superman. If it's stupid & it works, it's not stupid. Never draw fire; it irritates everyone around you. When in doubt empty the magazine. Never share a foxhole with someone braver then you are. Your weapon was made by the lowest bidder. If you can't remember, the claymore is pointed toward you. All five-second grenade fuses are three seconds. Try to look unimportant--they may be low on ammo. The enemy diversion you are ignoring is the main attack. If you're short of everything except the enemy, you're in combat. Incoming fire has the right of way. No combat-ready unit has ever passed inspection. No inspection-ready unit has ever passed combat. Teamwork is essential. It gives them other people to shoot at. If the enemy is in range, so are you. Tracers work both ways. The only thing more accurate than incoming enemy fire is incoming friendly fire. Radios will fail as soon as you need fire support. Don't look conspicuous, it draws fire. The easy way is always mined. Professionals are predictable; it's the amateurs that are dangerous. The enemy invariably attacks at two times: When you're ready for them. When you're not. A "sucking chest wound" is nature's way of telling you to slow down. If your attack is going well, you've just walked into an ambush. Anything you do can get you shot, including nothing. Make it tough enough for the enemy to get in and you won't be able to get out. When you have secured an area, don't forget to tell the enemy.

Happiness and satisfaction are better than inaction due to stupefaction from the smell of putrefaction.

Satisfaction seemed to be hard to find for Mick.

A lot of railroad modelers use screened sand or dirt from the yard. Looks pretty real.

Nah. Spikes.

Time for a beer I say, 'cause it's been a long, hot, frustrating, yet still productive day.

Sentence strukchur an splellig sumtime ain't not wut it used to were.

Yes, I like that a whole lot. Very very nice effect.

I started a couple of mockups using the Black Force with a shortened nose some years back... First with a more contemporary roofline: And a more old-school Carson-style half top...

I started something similar back in 2016. You can see the beginnings of the suicide front-end mockup. A lot of the build thread was about Zeeing the frame front and rear to get exactly the desired stance and still have adequate ground clearance to drive the thing if it was real. You might get some more ideas.

Too easy. I'm out.

Hmmmmmmm...saving a few pennies here and there, which is universal corporate policy now...or maybe figuring if they're too small to show up in photos they can dodge contingency payouts?

Here's another thread showing the same basic idea, but not in so much detail. Scroll about 1/3 way down the first page...and remember: mocking up the look you want and then measuring accurately is essential, just like building a real car.

It's really pretty simple once you understand exactly what you need to do. The below is copied directly from some of my build threads (start with a tubular front crossmember, and then mockup your model at the desired ride height for the look you want, and do some careful measuring): "Some careful measuring gave me the amount of drop I'd need on the suicide-style front-axle mount (above the top of the frame rails)." "To mount the axle to the frame, I'll be using a "suicide" style perch. Here I've started making it up from 2 sections of styrene channel. I left the forward leg long to get a good idea of the alignment of the perch with the frame rails. I like things that are square and symmetrical." "In this shot, the perch has been trimmed to its final configuration. The mount pad is 1.7mm higher than the tops of the frame rails, which is what that earlier figuring told me I'd need." "Here, the axle has been tacked to the mount, and the 4-link bars set in place to mark their bracket locations on the frame rails. This shot also shows that the last of the horrible gluey mess between the rear rails has been removed cleanly." One more reminder: getting the look you want doesn't just happen by randomly cutting and fitting. It takes careful mockups, measuring, and adjustment of several parameters, just exactly like building real cars...which is where I learned the stuff.