Ace-Garageguy

Today's irk: the delusional who are totally convinced they're the morally superior final arbiters of truth, who in reality have no clue about much of anything, but are absolutely certain they're right about everything. I'm also irked by narcissistic neurotic sociopaths who talk about love and compassion and constantly tell you how much they care, but you can tell by their actions that they have zero regard for anyone but themselves, and if you call 'em out on it, they dodge and weave and deflect and refuse to give any kind of straight answer or accept accountability...ever.

Kinda sad they got cheaper than dirt for a while, and probably most of 'em, especially in places prone to rust, got driven to death or cut up one way or another.

Yeah, somehow I could suffer through having to look at her every day.

Ah yes, todays irk. Same as most days: second, third, and fourth rate overpaid "experts" doing as little real work as possible, and what they do being poorly executed, sloppy, and just flat wrong...with all of 'em thinking they're actually worth what they're paid, and their employers too ignorant or too afraid to call 'em out.

Experience really is the best teacher, but it's useless if you're not paying attention and thinking constantly.

Friends don't let friends put cheap knockoff "offshore" parts in their cars.

Accepted practice among people who actually know what they're doing is often sneered at by internet experts.

PMed

Here's another old thread, possibly helpful... USCP appears to have multiple offerings as well, 3D printed... https://www.super-hobby.com/products/13-Inch-Revolution-4-Spoke-3D-Printed-For-Aoshima-Fujimi-Tamiya-Hasegawa.html

Before now was earlier, and after now will be later.

Aoshima is also a source for a variety of 13 inchers.

Thanks. I didn't know that. Guess I'd better dig everything out, check it, and shoot something on all the parts.

Pieces of annoying neighbors, after being run through a wood chipper, can be bokashi composted and then mixed with normal compost for garden fertilizer.

Same basic comment for the Microscale stuff. It's also very good for mounting "glass" parts like windshields, side windows, and light lenses, does indeed dry absolutely invisible in those applications, and seems to be a little stronger than plain old Elmers...which is chemically the same stuff, but thinner. Only downside I've encountered is that, even in its own tightly sealed soft plastic bottle, it will thicken to being unusable over several years. EDIT: I usually use the shafts of plain old straight pins or small ball-head pins (that I have around for gearshift lever balls) which are about .020", or big map pins (that I use for injector stack plugs, etc.), which are a little larger. Cheap, and WAY stronger than is required. You just need a set of small number drills, a cheap digital micrometer, and a pin vise.

Yeah...between a couple of generations raised as special little snowflakes who can do no wrong and were never disciplined or taught respect for other peoples' rights, and the resulting online culture of entitled narcissists that celebrates the worst imaginable behavior, it's not looking really great for people starting to act right en masse any time soon. Just a thought...many municipal and county gubmints have online access to local laws. I've only called the FD on somebody once when his fire was so huge there was a serious risk to the neighborhood, and that shut him down. On the other hand, I HAVE printed out the county burn laws in big black type ("from a concerned neighbor who'd rather not involve law enforcement") and left them in the mailboxes of the worst offenders a few years back...including a note that next time, I WOULD call code enforcement. It worked. And frankly, the recent crop of clowns do their stupid schmidt so infrequently, it's not currently worth the effort.

Cards dealt from a Tarot deck are believed by some to have mystical powers to forecast the future.

Food choices for this particular hippo breed appear to run to cookies, chips, pizza, and sugary drinks.

Mmmmmmmm...chrome pie.

Well, I have a few neighbor gripes too...like the clowns who don't even start their loud weekend moron music until after 11:00 PM when county code says it has to be quiet, the ones who insist on burning their household trash late at night (also illegal) when I have the windows open and the exhaust fan running in lieu of AC to cool the house (filling the place with the acrid stench of burning plastic), the ones who leave their dogs' poop at my mailbox, and the drive-through local landscaping trucks that use the entire street as a private dump. I'm leaving as soon as humanly possible.

Good advice at times, but sometimes not. The aero fairing for the roll bar on the red-oxide primered Ferrari 275P below gets painted body color, and is intended to be glued to the main body shell. Obviously painting this in place is quite impossible. I've carefully fitted it, and drilled both it and the body shell for locating pins. Though the legs of the fairing are only about .060" thick at the base, I was able to drill .020" holes sufficiently deep to retain the pins, which I attached with CA to the fairing. Small drops of PVA will be quite sufficient to hold it in place at final assembly. The front lower pan and the rear body panel were glued in place however, with the seams smoothed as appropriate prior to priming and paint.

I drill and pin everything like door-handles and mirrors and windshield frames and use a tiny drop of the PVA glue Matt mentions above. I prefer the Microscale Micro Krystal Klear, but Elmers will work. You drill the body and part for the pin before paint, glue the pin into the part, then carefully re-drill the hole on the body after paint, and assemble with PVA...or a little epoxy on the inside of the body on the end of the pin. The pin positively locates whatever you need to attach, and if a little PVA squoozes out during assembly, you just clean it off immediately with a damp Q-tip. Unless you have baybays playing with your models, this is entirely sufficient to retain anything.

Hungry hippos have invaded my local grocery emporium.

MGB? MG TD? Lotus 7, Europa, Elan? Mazda Miata? Any Ford T or A or '32 or '33-'34 or even later? Datsun 510? Datsun or Toyota pickup? Old Jeep? '33 Willys? '40 Willys? Anglia or Thames panel? Henry J? Revell '50 Austin? Ancient Revell Austin Healey? Bugeye Sprite? Triumph TR3? Lindberg Triumph GT6? '60s Alfa Romeo Spyder or coupe? BMW 2002? Any smallish Japanese RWD coupe or sedan? These little engines can easily make a reliable and streetable 150 HP naturally aspirated, 200+ blown or turboed, up to around 400 in racing tune (still with the original-style SOHC head), and don't weigh much. https://www.hotrod.com/features/2-3-ford-august-1986-982-1362-23-1 That's plenty to be entertaining in a light car.

Today's weather here is much as I remember England. Cool, overcast, rain showers off and on. Good day to sit in front of the electric fire watching old British mysteries. EDIT: And we had an earthquake about 09:00. It rattled the house about the same as a tree or large limb falling, but went on for several seconds.