Ace-Garageguy

Nice people often get blindsided by thieving cheats and scammers.

"Vessel empty make most noise", to paraphrase an old saying about dumb being loud.

Milk has a favorite cookie according to the ads, and it's the Oreo.

I don't know, but last time I was in one of the shops I work with, they had a 500 in for some major work. Next time I'm there, I'll see if I can get a definitive answer.

Design by committee...each member got to add one line or squiggle.

Armadillos are the state bird of Texas, aren't they?

Yeah, my system is '80s components and speakers, hardwired to the output jack from whichever computer I'm on. Maybe a little "primitive", but I've never heard anything that even comes close.

Y'all can do anything you want. It does for ME...but YOU don't HAVE to make ANYTHING "just right and accurate". AND...I'm not criticising the guy's work. I'm OFFERING KNOWLEDGE. Believe it or not, there are some people who value knowledge. EDIT: My apologies, Tony and Randy. I'll gladly remove my posts if you'd like. I just thought you might like to know.

Cars with coil springs and cars with quarter-elliptics (like the first Stone-Woods-Cook Willys) don't need sliders. Anything with semi-elliptic springs and ladder bars will need sliders. I got bogged down on one of my own builds when I had a DOH moment as I realized I'd need to fab sliders for the build to be right. You can leave your ladder bars as they are, and only fab sliders that are mounted to the axle, but allow the springs to slide through them. Here's one style, pretty easy to make. https://pitstopusa.com/i-23908156-competition-engineering-floating-housing-mount-bolt-on.html EDIT: This is about the simplest slider setup. The brackets weld to the housing, and the spring rides free on the rollers. https://www.chassisengineering.com/product-category/rear-suspensions-and-accessories/ladder-bars/housing-floaters/

Several months back, the "speaker out" function on my main laptop became inop. I run it through my big sound system, which is pretty fantastic...and being without music or having to listen to movie soundtracks through tinny little computer speakers isn't something that makes me happy. I checked the output plug, the wiring, the amp, all the connections, etc. No juice. I was about to take the computer to the shop, but I figgered I'd give it one last shot. Found a sound driver update online, loaded it...WHOOPEE!!! I have MUSIC again. Life is WAY better with the music I love.

Today is the last day of your life up until now.

Looks really good, very nice fabrication...but just a note on classes and tech: This build would most likely fall into a "gasser" class, if it has minimum required "street" equipment like lights, etc., and depending on the year you want to represent. Specific class is determined by engine displacement, whether or not it's supercharged, and vehicle weight. A/FX was for "factory experimental", and was limited to fairly current production cars of the 1960s. S/SX was supercharged experimental stock, just prior to full-blown funnycars, but rules specified a '64 or newer body for the /SX classes. This link goes a fairly complete, pretty accurate overview of older classes. https://nitroslots.com/thread/398/drag-racing-classses AND...DWC is absolutely correct about "sliders" being necessary with ladder-bars and semi-elliptic leaf springs. The rear suspension will bind without them. There are several different designs, so some research would be appropriate for your specific setup.

"God" is a forbidden topic here, falling under the heading of "religion", so exercise prudence.

Hips and lower back pain is much better today, thanks. It's absolutely necessary for me to keep up with my hiking and stretching if I want to stay mobile.

I'm running late as usual, but that's nobody's fault but mine.

Very nice work on one of the better kits out there.

The Tamiya engravers are pretty spendy for a tool you might not like. This Trumpeter tool cuts a curl on the backstroke like the Tamiya tool, but is a lot cheaper, if you just want to get a feel for how they work. I bought mine at HobbyTown.

"God" is dog spelled backwards. (NOTE: No disrespect intended or implied)

Opera is usually an art form I can do without.

Very nice. Missed it first time around, glad it's popped up again. Fenderless "fat fendered" cars aren't often seen, and usually don't look anywhere near this good.

Looking good...

Very nice. I've always found watercolor to be the most unforgiving medium to work in, and envy anyone who handles it as well as you do.

Morning in winter before the first cup of coffee usually means grogginess and pain and cold and dark.

Tonight, if I had a sweetheart, I'd take her to dinner, but I don't, so I won't.

The circumstances would seem to indicate something wrong with the clear...like it's missing a critical ingredient. ( Alkyd-based paints, for example, require the presence of particular "driers" to function correctly. https://www.goldstab.com/articles/types-of-driers-and-their-functions ) Paints and Coatings based on alkyd or modified alkyd resins are common in today’s markets. These air drying systems require catalysts to accelerate the chemical reactions of the drying process, called "driers". I'd apply some of the clear to a clean, inert substrate, like bare steel, and see if it dries hard...thus eliminating any possibility of weird interactions with the plastic or paint substrates on the model. That should tell ya if the clear itself is "bad". EDIT: A further step would be to pull up the TDS for the clear, which should be available online, and see what the chemical composition is. If the base is an alkyd resin, this applies, which should give an indication of what got left out of your batch. https://patchamltd.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Paint-Driers-2.pdf