Ace-Garageguy

Blah blah blah. Buy a new car if you like them. Don't if you don't. Blah blah blah. EDIT: Make that "baa baa baa".

Oh...no. Good guy, cool guy, real car guy. So long my friend. See you on the other side.

I always kinda wondered how the name "Beaver Cleaver" worked as an adolescent.

I hate when that happens.

^^^ This has been mentioned before, and one of the favorite rebleats is always "but cars of the (pick a period) also all looked the same". While true to an extent, there are periods when that just wasn't the case.

I appreciate the input, but much of my own experience dates back to paint work on real cars when lacquer was still in general use. Recoating lacquer with lacquer during repairs was very rarely an issue, and was pretty much SOP. In the case of this particular model, the hardware store lacquer cracked up because it couldn't withstand the hot solvents in the Duplicolor product (which has never cracked when I've recoated it with more Duplicolor, by the way). As a general rule, I don't like "sealers"...not on real cars either. And I don't want to bury the thing in more and more layers of stuff anyway. If I can't 'trick' the finish into cooperating, which IS quite likely based on what I've been able to pull off in the past, I'll just strip the body and do it in Duplicolor from the git go. One aside...most of this build was intentionally done with vintage parts and materials that would have been available to modelers back in the '60s. Not everyone had access to model-specific paints, and my initial hardware store black lacquer job looked just fine. But that can aged out during a lull in the work, could not be made so spray, I didn't wat to decant it at the time, and the replacement hardware-store paint wasn't a good match. That's when I decided to just get on with it and shoot it all in Duplicolor. That's where we are today, and if I have to strip it to achieve the quality I expect, so be it.

You really have to be careful with non-model primers. Reading the label, I see it states "superior adhesion" on a variety of plastics, but polystyrene isn't among them. Many primers achieve "superior adhesion" by incorporating very aggressive "hot" solvents, and will instantly craze many kit plastics. Badly. The damage can usually be repaired, but it takes considerable effort. At the very least, TEST that primer on a large area that won't be seen before you use it on that very rare model. Test it ON THAT PARTICILAR MODEL, as testing on something else, like the ever popular spoons, won't tell you diddly.

Place where one of my engines let go during a "street race" was a marked by a dark spot on the road for many years, but was finally paved over recently.

Yeah, and the herd-following sheep always went along with whatever was perceived as "the thing" of the day, without conscious thought, believing they were cool if they did exactly what everyone else did. They still do.

Heard from the rebleating herd was primarily "rebleat, rebleat, rebleat", but originality isn't big with that particular demographic. ?

So did I at the time. And "okay Boomer" is so clever, it just never gets old. Did you make that up yourself? ?

A hot-rod by any other name...

You can take that rib off easy enough...

What's the most obvious thing that's faded away? Actual men to drive 'em.

I don't have to be withdrawing from nicotine to feel that way... Seriously, stick with it. You'll feel a lot better in the long run. At least that's what I tell myself every time I smell somebody else smoking and go into jonesing overload.

Looking good. This is absolutely one of my favorite models on the board. The real car is, to me, the epitome of cool, and you've come closer to getting it right than anyone else I've seen so far. Nice work on a challenging subject to model.

"Release the dogs of war" squeaked the fuzz-faced jellybelly wargamer, as he practically wet himself in anticipation of the kind of confrontation his complete lack of physical ability ensured he'd never face in reality.

Me too. Every couple of weeks, I'll sand the body and try to shoot more Duplicolor lacquer over the cracks...but every time, more open up. I'm trying to avoid stripping it, as there is bodywork that'll have to be redone if I do. Like I said above, I assumed shooting Duplicolor lacquer over hardware store lacquer that had been dry for years would be safe. Wrong. ?

Days full of blithering fools are standard on social and mainstream media.

Moving the goalposts, anyone?

Yup. Spread center primaries, unlike the smallblocks, which had 'em close together.

Yup, some of them are very useful. Not in the league with factory service manuals, which I buy for everything I own, but still a great help.