Ace-Garageguy

Found a reference link, and found that most of my kits that had these things have already moved West. Also found one, all I need, in the old Lindberg-boxing of the AMT '34 Ford pickup.

I think I'll see if this one can't make it to the show Nov. 5, one way or another, too.

Yeah...since I have 'til the end of the year to finish the Stude, I think I'll see if I can drag this one across the line by Nov. 5.

Responsibility avoidance appears to be the driving factor behind much of what we see around us today.

Mixes of sodium and water can have interesting results.

Thanks to all for your answers.

One (or some) older AMT kits included a tubular style stand for displaying the optional engine. I've found the one made up from 3 flat parts in the shoebox Ford kit, but digging through all the likely candidates I still have here has turned up zilch. The one I mean came in the '34 Ford truck, shown below. But I seem to recall it came in others as well. Anybody?

I'm thinking full-fendered A-V8, just like one would have been built from '45 after the war through about '53, including the then-hot setup '34 X-member, 16" steel disc wheels, recapped slicks, 3-speed LaSalle or Packard gearbox behind a "full race" 8BA flathead, Halibrand 201 V8 quickchange (which would make it post-'48, I believe), '40 Ford "juice" brakes, and a dropped-and-filled front beam axle. Yeah, that'll work.

Word you were s'posed to use 4 hours back was "dumbfounded".

Not yet, as my chuck adapters for the Dremel won't quite handle the shanks on the cutters. But I have some on the way that will. I'm pretty sure the burrs you sent will be exactly what I need to do some mods on the diecast body. I've been using the same tungsten carbide cutters I got over a decade back, on steel, and they're still sharp and effective, almost indestructible if you don't let them get clogged. I expect the dental cutters to be much the same.

Thanks Carl.

You're not going to like my answer. I use MGS 285 epoxy resin and 285 (fast) hardener. It's over $300 per gallon, takes 24 hours for a full room-temperature cure, and likes a subsequent elevated temp post-cure to achieve maximum strength. I use it because I usually have it in stock for real aircraft work, and when it goes past the use-by date, it's a write off. It is used to build and repair high performance aircraft like the Cirrus SR22, and keep's 'em stuck together at 7g, so no worries about cracking while you're doing bodywork on a model. For high-strength fill work over questionable substrates, I use West System 105 resin with 205 hardener, thickened with microballoon. It takes 12 hours for a room temperature cure, but the beauty of the stuff is that it takes very fine scribed lines beautifully, with no flaking edges...very important for scribing new door opening lines, etc.

Yup, I've used fisheye eliminator in the past on real cars, but only as a last resort. But since I got into thoroughly cleaning everything with iso alcohol prior to painting, I've never had a problem. EDIT: In general though, this seems like one of those threads that reinforces the importance of testing materials from different paint systems that are NOT designed to work together on something else, BEFORE trying to paint a model.

"Hog out" in reference to brutally opening something up with a grinding tool is an expression that leaves more than a few listeners dumbfounded.

Looking great, and judging from your earlier work, you can bring it all together into a beautiful model. For me though, defining features of the GTO's body shell are those gorgeous rear quarters, and the signature taillight panel. If I were ever to do a similar mod, I'd try to keep those somehow...but that's just me.

Nice work so far on a great but not-easy kit of a very special car.

Motels that date to the postwar era, when lots of Americans hit the roads, are among my favorite travel stops.

I'm in. This falls right dead square in the middle of one of my main areas of interest.

Thanks, Ray. We'll see how far this one gets.

Grown men who act like spiteful high-school drama-queen mean-girls.

Good thing I'm rarely in a hurry then. I've bought his stuff before, and it's worth a little wait to get that kind of otherwise unobtainable quality.

Boy howdy...glad youse fellers posted this. That selection of parts is exactly what I'm needing for a coupla builds.

Truly impressive. Looks like a real car being prepped.

For being reasonably healthy and fit, I'm also very grateful.