Ace-Garageguy

Snopes? Really? It's not that I disagree with you...and if you'll look, I posted a little winking face after the header, which generally indicates a joke, or a tongue-in-cheek statement. But thinking Snopes is the final arbiter on anything is absurd. They've demonstrated their bias countless times, and it's often painfully obvious. They also sometimes get things dead wrong.

But think how much money you saved on gas...

Seems to be working. Had some significant lag earlier this AM, but it's OK now. 9:36 AM EST

"Useless" is often the best description of upper management personnel in both private and public sectors.

Looks great. I'll be starting a restoration of a gluebomb one of these shortly, and your build here is certainly inspiring.

Just got in a sad little Franklin Mint 1/24 '49 Ford woody. Filthy, missing a few bits, but never dropped and so cheap as to be un-pass-up-able. The model looks much better in person than in the photos. A little spit and polish, and some parts-box replacements, she'll be fine.

If you're thinking of casting copies, I'm in for one, whatever the cost.

Horsepower is something you can never have too much of, 'cause you can always throttle-back.

Only thing really jumps out at me as missing is Revell's original Stone-Woods-Cook Willys. Not an easy kit, but definitely an icon of the "gasser wars" period.

Cream, Chastain Park Amphitheater, October 28, 1968; front row seats.

Baseball would have been a more attractive career option when I was a kid if salaries way back then had been proportionate to what they are today.

You just made my day.

Things like this often turn out as ungainly messes, but you managed to pull it all together with pleasing proportions. Nice work.

The way things are going, they'll be stars at the SEMA show in not too much longer.

Years from now, it'll be interesting to look back and see how...or if...Western Civilization recovered from the looming death-spiral.

4GC is a 4 bbl. Those would most likely be 2GCs, common tri-power (3X2) carbs.

Still in ATL. Moved one 26 foot truckload to Az. last July, worked out there on the house until early November, have been back in ATL wrapping up business and packing since then. Trying to be finished moving by Christmas. We'll see.

Forum response has been intermittently slow past hour or so, and it just popped up this massage when I tried to open the "irked" thread: [[Template forums/front/topics/topic is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] EDIT: ALSO, many responses are posting in the threads, but are NOT showing in the main topic lists.

Just a thought...a beach ball can be certain death in the hands of the right chimp.

PM'd

Got in a 3 hour hike, and took lotsa late summer photos. Enjoyed that so much, my insanely-inflated-from-this-time-last-year grocery bill didn't even make me too mad...relatively speaking.

Yourself otter be your own best friend.

Green is the color of my true-love's hair...wait...WAIT...WHAT!!!

You lower most model vehicles pretty much the way you'd lower a real one, with some limitations, but everything depends on how low you want to go. Measuring prior to modifying anything is key, so you first need to mock up the thing as it comes...either assemble the suspension dry, or glue it on temporarily with something like white glue or rubber cement...and see how high the frame is off the ground at each end. Then take it back apart, and mock up how high you want it to be (without suspension under it). The difference is how much you'll need to raise the axle centerlines relative to the frame. The front axle can be raised a fair bit by shaving the rear brackets at the rear of the front springs, part #8. The front spring pads can be shaved a little too, and you'll need to shorten the shocks, part #16. to compensate. The rear can be lowered some by shaving material off of the spring mount pads on top of the rear axle, part #15, or if you need a lot of drop, by raising the rear springs, part #14, relative to the frame. Measure everything twice. Work slowly and carefully. Only cut a little at a time, 'cause it's a lot easier to cut more than it is to put plastic back on. Think everything through. Mock up frequently with common-sense engaged. And pay attention to the possibility of the axles hitting the frame as you raise them. Many times, you have to notch frame rails on solid-axle vehicles to get them down as far as you want.