Ace-Garageguy

Looks like the MIG might actually look better on some chrome window and side trim with enough practice. Looks like it might be just the ticket for doing some flat drag-car interior "tin" that was the subject of another thread.

The fuel line would go to a banjo-fitting on the side of the float chamber, just to the side of the velocity stack on your model. Scroll 2/3 down the link below, page 14 if it displays as a PDF, look at parts 15-18 on what appears to pretty much be your exact carb: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/547e5122e4b0193d67f28396/t/5854ddf6725e25b3b4c06d52/1481956877861/Amal+MK2+Carb+Manual.pdf

Throttle and mixture cables on that one go in from the top, into those nut-like things. Study this, parts 10 and 11: https://www.jrcengineering.com/technical-support/amal-concentrics-tuning-and-jetting/

Good news: this one appears to have the velocity stack cast in unit with the body. Maybe.

Yup. Zinc alloy.

Happy happy. The computer I store my photos in wouldn't restart after loading the newest version of my security gizmoprogrammothingy. I just KNEW I shouldn't have done it while I was doing billing paperwork (that I always send progress photos with). Locked up, wouldn't boot, couldn't get my photos of course. But after some patient diddling and sweet-talking, she came back and seems to be humming along happily now. Good girl. I think she just wanted some attention and reassurance. Now back to work.

Last trip, I went I-10 instead of I-40 to see what the road was like. The previous trip in a big U-Haul, I-40 was so rough in Oklahoma it damm near rattled my teeth out, and did a little damage from load-shifting. Anyway, on the last trip on I-10, the Yotyto dumped her alternator in Phoenix, and I was stuck there a couple days while the dealership fixed it (low-mileage car, I took neither parts nor tools). I thought about calling you to see if we could get together for a beer, but circumstances prevented same. I'll be going 1-40 from now on though, as it's several hundred miles shorter.

Yup...and the reason Chebby SB aftermarket parts are generally lots cheaper than the equivalent parts for Fords. Volume, volume, volume. I personally like the SB Ford engines better than the little Chebby for a lot of reasons. But for relatively cheap semi-bulletproof power, it's kinda hard to beat Chevrolet.

Not on the road exactly, but at the shop... Jag S-Type 3.8 (my white XJ6 next to it) Corvair Rampside pickup Little Red Truck Triumph TR-250

I gotta admit...I never even knew there was a 2-dr post, flush back window version of that body until today. Now I want one.

Nothing says Kustom like a hairy firewall.

This is another one of the best guys on YT. This particular clip illustrates the joys of working on electronics after another shop has done an incorrect diagnosis, and the customer installs the wrong part, buggering things in the process. The logic of his approach to getting this hot mess running is what you want to find in a tech...and very rarely do. Any wonder I've quit doing this stuff on old, nasty, unloved cars?

Amen, brother.

EDIT: The photos below show real '66 Chevelles. Anybody who doesn't see or doesn't mind the inaccuracies in the models...I'm OK with that....for you.

Yup...I've known a lotta those. "Ever since you worked on my brakes, my horn doesn't sound the same".

First impression is it's a kinda sorta vintage Amal side-draft carb. Look at some online photos, and we'll go from there. http://amalcarb.co.uk/ EDIT: EDIT 2: The velocity stack would almost certainly be a separate part, not cast in unit with the carb body.

There's something wrong with the noses on both the Monogram and the Lindberg kits. I haven't measured yet, but I bought 'em all to do a gift model for a client I'm doing a real '66 for, and as I look at the real thing every work day, the inaccuracies jump out at me. The Revell '66 Chevelle wagon looks better initially, and I've been looking at clipping the Lindberg version with the Revell wagon nose. EDIT: Seems like I mentioned this somewhere before; maybe in this very thread, though I haven't checked.

I'll have to watch for that. You've really piqued my curiosity.

Glad I could help, Ray.

Last drum brakes I did were on my Neon a few years back after one of the OEM shoes lost a bonded lining. I was in a hurry, it was my own car, and either I forgot or just didn't bother tapering the shoes. Little car didn't seem to notice...which is not to say it's not still a good idea. I'm right there with you an the AR thing, but I know what I can get away with on my own stuff, and take shortcuts and make rigs I'd never dream of doing on somebody else's machine. And boy...I've blown a lotta time this AM. I gots stuff to do.

I don't know what the shop policy is, or how good a communicator the service-writer or manager is (lotsa them are zero-hands-on-experience idiots; the best ones are usually ex- or retired mechanics, same as in the body biz), and lotsa times the shops don't want techs actually talking to the customers. Again, the shop policy is unknown to me...but the technical competence of this particular mechanic is obvious. There's no question the front brake rotors haven't been replaced in a long time, though the rear drums might have been. Stuff rusts fast in damp, salty Florida. But I always take everything any customer tells me with a grain of salt. Over 5 decades in the biz have taught me most of them have no idea what they're talking about, and you might as well listen to their parrot on the same subject. Case in point: I once had a guy bring me a Triumph Stag on the hook, popping, spitting, missing entirely on one cylinder, too feeble to get out the driveway. He said "there's nothing wrong with it; it just won't run...so don't try to sell me a lot of work because I JUST HAD EVERYTHING DONE". He shows me a receipt for a valve-lash adjustment, points, condenser, cap and rotor, wires, distributor rebuild, both carbs rebuilt, plugs, fuel and air filter...and again states emphatically "there's nothing wrong with it...it just won't run". So whatthehell am I supposed to do? Wave a magic wrench over it? Hold a séance? Call in a priest to drive the demons out? We finally came to terms, and I let him watch as I began going through a diagnosis starting with a compression test...which nobody had bothered to do previously...and get numbers that look like lotsa valves are either burned or adjusted WAY wrong. Plugs are fouled and gaps are wrong. Point gap is 1/2 of what it's supposed to be. So finally, he realizes he's been screwed, gives me the green to fix the damm thing, picks the car up in a couple days, and loves it. Point being: the customer isn't always right, but knowledge and open communication go a long way to solve most problems...and there are jerks who just won't listen because they think they know better than anybody about everything.

DUMB GUY DOUBLE-POST

I agree with you for the most part. BUT...I haven't seen shoes come with tapered ends for a long time. I don't know why. I still do it to the stuff I work on out of old habit, but apparently it's not considered necessary anymore. I haven't seen anybody arc shoes to match drums much in the past few decades either (though we did at Mills hot-rod shop). We have the equipment to do it all in the vintage car shop, but everybody there is pretty much a parts-changer, and the sad little machines sit covered with dust. It's among the vintage tooling I'm going to try to buy when I leave...like the distributor machine, the '60s vintage Sun machine, etc. On the wheel tightening thing, he usually uses the impact just to snug the nuts or bolts down (which I find to be acceptable if the wrench power is turned way down) and in a more-or-less correct cross-pattern. He'll often show going back with the car on the ground, final-tightening the fasteners with a click-type or old-school pointer torque wrench. One aside...recently I had to buy a new-fangled $800 electric impact to do a front hub bearing job on a friend's Corolla. The peak torque of the thing is astounding, but the precision of control over tightening torque values is pretty impressive too. On most street-driven cars, I'd be pretty OK with tightening wheel fasteners with a high-end unit (which his is) adjusted to a reasonable torque limit...though I always use a torque wrench on alloy wheels, and never final-tighten anything with a power tool. But yes, sometimes he does final-tighten lug nuts with the impact, and it makes me cringe. I said above that I think he "slings things around" a little much for my taste, and the wheel fasteners come under that heading. STILL...finding a mechanic today who understands what he's doing and how systems work, well enough to explain in simple terms, is extremely rare. That's where this guy really shines. Somebody really smart once said that if you actually know what you're doing, you can explain something complicated in simple terms; I find this to be true.

14 at last count, one bike, and 2 trailers. One car is already there. Only 2 here are really running at the moment, should improve to 4 in a couple months. For the logistics of the move to work as I'd originally planned, I need both trucks, the Neon, and the PT to make it across the country on their own, the Neon several times...but that's subject to re-think. I have lotsa work to do.