Ace-Garageguy

Actually, most model car bodies are wavy as eff. I routinely block the waves out with 400 wet, then go up to 600 or 800 prior to primer to minimize scratch swelling. On the areas that need no remedial work, my tried-and-true surface prep is a careful all-over scrub with hot water and a mild abrasive cleanser like "no scratch" Comet, using a toothbrush. That gets all the little nooks scuffed...nooks that can allow paint to peel later, or pull away if left glossy...without softening details like sanding can. The Comet-scrub also removes any of the dreaded "mold release", and if you're really anal, a wipedown with isopropyl alcohol is cheap insurance against fisheyes. EDIT: Your paint looks good TJ, whatever you're doing, and that just proves there are lotsa ways to skin this particular cat. I've turned out a few decent ones too...

Correct. And amazingly, this common-sense idea is routinely overlooked by lotsa folks who should know better. Better by far to pin small parts.

What specific primer are you having this problem with? Duplicolor makes several, and they don't all behave exactly the same way. There's also an unfortunate tendency to re-formulate rattlecan products to cheapen them lately...the last version of PlastiKote I tried being one such now-useless mess.

Very cool that your father flew Spitfires. The reason the Lagonda engine would start easier on the coil is that a mag has to be spinning to develop sufficient electrical oompf to light off the mixture. With the relatively slow cranking speeds of car starters, the rotational speed of the mag might be just borderline for starting, particularly with a somewhat flat battery in cold weather. Mags typically make more juice at higher RPM, hence their use on racing engines...and why push-starts were usually the norm back in the old days, to get the mag spinning fast enough to make a fat, hot spark. EDIT: Just for clarification, many old race cars didn't have onboard batteries or coils anyway, so push-starting a mag-equipped car (or using an external starter like some vintage Indy cars) was the only way to get them going.

Just as an aside, that's exactly what happens during a "mag check" on an IC aircraft engine prior to takeoff. Reciprocating aircraft engines have dual magneto ignition systems for redundancy, and the mag check consists of switching off each mag alternately at a particular throttle setting. Acceptable RPM drop when one mag is shut down is typically in the 50-100 RPM range, with 175 being about the absolute allowable maximum. Considering mag checks are generally done at around 1800 RPM, that's a lot of power loss with one shut down. PS: Nice work on this, Matt. Beautiful kit too.

Exceptional work preparing this thread so far...professional quality. The kit is a real beauty, and if you build it as well as you're presenting your info, it should be a knockout.

Very attractive model, exceptionally clean build. Though it has a few inaccuracies, it looks as though Revell got more right with their rendition of this car than anyone else has to date. I'm sold.

To the best of my knowledge, that's a re-branded "Coke" repop of the approximately 1/26 scale model I refer to, and show, earlier in the thread. The Lindberg kit was always INCORRECTLY labeled as 1/32, a mistake endlessly rebleated on the interdwerbs, when in fact it is 1/26 (determined by using very simple arithmetic after measuring the model's wingspan). The tiny little pilot figure in the Lindberg kit is 1/32. The rest of the kit is 1/26. Numbers and grade-school arithmetic have apparently been exceptionally difficult for "professional" adults for decades.

Thank you, sir. Glad you're enjoying it.

Thanks. I'd really like that, and the plan is to drive the wheels off the thing when it's done.

Sure. Common-core "educated" postal employee who didn't successfully discriminate between Arizona and Alaska. Who needs to know where states are, anyway...especially if you're an essentially un-firable salaried employee and competent performance of your job isn't an issue. A machine-illegible address or zip could also be part of the problem, and with no intelligent human intervention... It'll probably go to Arkansas next.

Page three, this thread...

Thanks. This is the one I'd finish up first if I had the time.

Start with a Nomad?

Yup...a S.C.o.T.-blown Ardun-Ford in a '33 3-window...most definitely my kinda car. NOTE: This Revell kit has a very good Ardun. No S.C.o.T. blower, but it's a start. The ancient AMT '57 Chevy has a sorta S.C.o.T blower too...

AND...the consensus is that you can get a good start with a '34 Ford. If you're working in 1/25, I'd suggest trying to find the 1/24 scale Monogram '34 Ford kit. As the Plymouth/Dodge cars are slightly larger than the contemporary Ford products, you'd be a little closer.

Some years back, I built a 354-powered '33 Plymouth coupe... Back in 2013, a fella in Oz was working on that era Dodge and Plymouth resin masters... Here's another thread about the roadster...

It's not the sentient beings I'm particularly concerned with. Far as I'm concerned, at least half of homo sapiens fail to qualify.

S'okay. I already have a 55 gallon drum to seal myself into, and 50 feet of 5/16" tow chain to lash it to a 150-year-old Joshua tree that's most likely lived through dozens of haboobs.

You can bet their bean counters are making interest on the "float". The longer they can delay a completed transfer, the more they stand to make. In economics, float is duplicate money present in the banking system during the time between a deposit being made in the recipient's account and the money being deducted from the sender's account. It can be used as investable asset, but makes up the smallest part of the money supply.

Depending on what scale you're working in, clear fishing line works very well. The red stuff works for old-school red neoprene fuel line too. It comes in lotsa diameters, but it's generally only really appropriate for 1/24/ -1/25 etc.

In case nobody's noticed, Google Pay is pushing hard to unseat PayPal. Google already has a stranglehold on information, and along with their toady YouTube, very obviously engages in widespread censorship. Don't give them access to your banking info.

Thanks, Carl. Yup, still moving, but stuck here until I finish up my part of a high-end '66 Chevelle I promised I'd see through to the end. Getting close to engine-start, and not too long after that I can hand it off to paint. Then I'll move the first truckload to the place in Az.

Ho baby...smokin' hot design. Fine proportions, yes indeed. VERY nice work here...