Ace-Garageguy

No shortage of fools though.

So glad for that insightful commentary. But here's the thing, sporty. I use tools that work for my needs. My cheap little wireless mouse does everything I need it to do just fine. Frankly, after using wired mice since the dawn of time, I was surprised by how well the thing works. And since it works fine for my needs at the moment, I see no reason to replace it until it doesn't. You just have to understand logic and adopt the rational solution.

What was the question? I got confused trying to put my Depends on backwards.

Gee, I guess I'll have to get rid of mine so I can be as cool and manly as you guys. Nah.

Just another case of people who "know" running off at the mouth without really having a clue. Lots of it around, getting worse all the time.

Nice boat, man.

However true that may be, the Gremlin / Hornet line used many carryover parts from AMC's full-size car lines, primarily for economic reasons, and as a result, the Hornet / Gremlin are hardly "small" cars. Smaller than some, but not exactly small. The point I was making is that the Gremlin and late-model Challenger are close enough in width that a real version of the concept shown above is entirely within the realm of possibility, and hardly as difficult as it might appear to be to the heavy-modification uninitiated. The quick research I just did list's the Hornet's width as 71.1", Gremlin at 70.59"...and they're both on the same basic chassis stampings. (EDIT: Some online sources claim the Pacer's floor stampings are the same as Gremlin / Hornet, so those three cars are very closely related structurally...if true.) A similar Q&D online source lists an '09 Challenger's width as 75.7". Four or five and a half inches is close enough to get the two major design elements to work together without excessive difficulty...which again, was my point.

Looking good. One of my intended projects too.

NICE...and so close. That one sure needs to get done.

19 feet? Interesting. Testors is still in business, but they're owned by Rustoleum now and have dropped a lot of product lines. https://www.testors.com/pages/about-testors/our-history/ What kind of glue are you looking for? If you want liquid, there are alternatives that are chemically the same. Can't help you if it's tube gloo you're after.

It's the exact same kit, other than the Checkers version doesn't have the optional '38 nose and stuff.

I like the concept, and the Gremlin was pretty wide for a "small" car, 'cause American Motors couldn't afford to tool up for something narrower and had to use big-car underpinnings...so the width might be close, or at least workable. What puts me off about the p-shopped mashup is the excessive length ahead of the front wheels, and as mentioned above, the excessive heaviness and bulk of the front bumper/airdam/whatever. The perspective of the angle of the face doesn't match the rest of the vehicle either...not even close...and looks stupid. Some tuning of the idea by somebody with talent could make this thing a knockout. EDIT: Too bad Harry P. has gone to the big studio in the sky. He could fix it.

It depends entirely on what works consistently well for you. I shoot primer on pretty much everything, because I usually end up doing work that will require a slight primer fill on every single part...like scraping parting lines, sanding and filling sink marks, etc. And because I also inevitably do at least minimal bodywork, and because I painted real cars for years, and because I need maximum adhesion when I invariably wetsand and polish, I prime bodies as a matter of course. But that's just what works for me.

Same here, and I really didn't want a wireless mouse for a variety of reasons...but I was in the middle of a project and HAD to have something immediately. Got a cheap Logitech M187, expecting little, and it's been brilliant. Only time it ever started acting up, kinda similar to your issues, was after a year when the battery was going away. New batt, no problem. Batteries DO go bad while in storage, or on the shelf, even the good ones, and even though the expiration date on the package may have years to run. Try a known good battery first, go from there.

Isn't that the kit you started with over here?

1) Never hit an animal, no matter how strong the motivation. All it does is create a fearful, hand-shy personality. 2) Someone mentioned stern voice commands. Stern is the key. LOUD. Shouting can actually work well, as dogs have acute hearing and don't like loud, particularly when it's unexpected. Shouting works with cats too. 3) In extreme cases, some animal trainers recommend using a squirt gun to "correct" behavior, but only if you can squirt the animal when it's doing what you don't want it to do. I had a male unfixed cat that would spray in the house occasionally. After a few squirts that he never really associated with ME, he quit doing it inside. 4) Talking to animals, or punishment after the fact, doesn't work at all in my experience. They don't understand human speech (though they do respond to tone and volume), they don't reason abstractly (that's not real common among most human's abilities either), and they don't associate punishment with unwanted behavior if it's not given at the time the infraction occurs. 5) Kindness is great, but kindness doesn't always beget kindness...a truism with people too. The cat I have now, raised from an abandoned 3-week-old kitten, used to bite and claw during play, just as if I was another cat. It was cute when he was little, but now he's a big strong tom, and he can hurt you. He's responded very well to shouting when he occasionally forgets himself, and is still very affectionate without constantly opening up my hands and ankles...but any kind of rough play brings out his natural aggression, and his claws. It's necessary for ME to make allowances for HIS innate makeup. 6) Different animals have different personalities, from birth, just as humans do. My last cat had a hardwired compassion circuit. Though she was an accomplished fighter and dominated the cats in the neighborhood, she seemed to understand that putting her claws out while playing with PEOPLE would hurt them. She never did. She was also very careful about how hard she'd bite...never enough to break the skin...except once when I accidentally stepped on her tail. She deserved, and got, a pass for that one.

That's a possibility, and I considered it, but because of the rarity of the old Revellogram '40 pickup on my shelves at the time, I opted to rework the '37 truck cab rather than cutting up something I wanted for something else. There are a few other reasons I preferred starting with the '37, including some aspects of the firewall design.

Good info. That's about the size of a 1/25 car. One of our paint suppliers used to give me all I wanted, but with cost trimming everywhere, no more.

As Casey posted above, lotsa the rulebooks are right here on this very site. Scroll halfway down the page below for PDF downloads:

OMG!!! OMG!!! Here's one for ONLY $40, and $9.85 shipping. Better snap it up!!! You can sell it for AT LEAST $25. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194489556766?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2d487b1f1e:g:qukAAOSwqj9hhHih&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSd3M8ngECaRA0SmyU4KT%2FnpZ9ohxi%2FZgfnrY9Ir6lmJwo8hkw6r0ioZcM%2FhOGuZM8R5GF%2FFincWhd%2BfRAwYkdWBO29YkMz04AzN4W0kVTrZYhD9%2FFzjLgUdcIVFh6vVTi5VZq2sWRr2RSRfsCEirCmIEznUbLmkHINWl3Xzv3LWp5V4AP6G4YJZ6oe7MJJBnChgRW5tZDRX6ad%2FU90e4GoHFMBWA%2BbN3PfxKXd48R0NYrBKwy272kY4no2i2fTLUaOoWpPWxK5M5fIByByD9gx0H8flJ2U5LDRqO1IgHqmHNea2odRs%2Fb%2BxxxOeS8p%2BqXfXZj7Wxf5xa8aWgB8t4kJZmGwlYD9F7u5SwmgiA1oTsuASfe8cPLvAKdqwj0%2BQQCe8ahyBrw4IgX9OX8nbRS7urcixCLvIRvQmEUzGYhLFjbpErUkWSWlvKTlNZo8cTq4%2BQCZGzY%2BNJmW7%2B%2FZNn7sFL6XKtQ3vLiwEgdUxHuHocsG2lH0t23s2haOHx4uK%2Bj7%2Fpzo1VW2QEKpf94WsuQ2xYE2Dk2VZ40F2j4X5iqlMwu1cVoxpi9j9A5mUj7aFHs%2Bv7o9wTTxnEdnoKBdhHHWYMD%2FSnffWPXS2nskaMzN1fEXH9XFs3bi07HycMytYylv5uj7gmwDLLdqK5AkWSnDRw7SXKCP%2BSeZc0NA4piLlsE%2BUwBR%2BrFKFAxkSrkF0Lpu%2F6w%2BdrIqiubZ1MJJ%2Bjgd0k2UiQnFg%2FrGlkEXSxGRkHZwRDqa31eXtse7aQFWDisXyOhHdyECLuCqfjrXCDBx6C7%2B%2BTPZdnoqobUvLyXWnfXPve822jZMh5O%2Fbd5xx0l|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBMvq-9qdZf

Here's a little more info. The Revell '32 Ford frames are WAY better than most of the AMT early kit offerings. The main problem if you're building a period rod is that the Revell frames are set up for coil springs and a '57 and later Ford 9" rear end. Most early rods and stockers used a transverse leaf or "buggy" spring. Converting the Revell frames to the earlier configuration isn't particularly difficult, but it does take some careful work, measuring, and research and thought about what you're trying to accomplish. Pages 3 and 4 of this thread show the steps involved to rework the Revell frames to take an A or T rear buggy spring, in order to accommodate a quick-change rear end. Modifying the frame to take stock '32 rear suspension is similar. If you want to build a more recent style rod on '32 rails, with independent front suspension, the AMT Phantom Vickie is an excellent starting point.

One of those things I got interested in because of this forum. Saw a guy here who was dabbling in making resin copies of a 1/25 scale diecast International, found one, and started looking for interesting things to turn it in to.

NICE work. And most definitely thanks from me too.

EDIT: SORRY FOLKS. LINKS KILLED BY FAKEBOOK.