Ace-Garageguy

I'm sure somebody could, but I'm an old-school scratchbuilder from wayback, and I have a miniature mill and lathe. I can make what I need, as soon as I decide exactly what that will be. Both Amal and SU carbs were around well before the time this build represents, but getting info as to what specific carb was available in what bore and when has so far used up all the time I had available to research it, with no concrete results. I'm kinda anal-retentive about making certain something COULD have been built during a particular time period, whether anything like it actually WAS...and I'll even fudge the accuracy of how I choose to model something, so long as I KNOW it's fudged.

Yupper, and just FYI, THAT kit is slightly on the large end of 1/24, and many of the repops have resin tires.

It's NOT 1/32 scale. That's internet bull. I have several, and every singledy darn one is 1/25.

Looks like somebody didn't read ALL of what I wrote.

This thread goes into detail about fixing older bodies by making molds of available kit parts and splicing in repair sections.

By '68, promos would have been styrene or ABS, a tougher version of styrene. MEK solvent-types of liquid cement should work fine, as will CAA (superglue-type products) and epoxy.

Yup.

Good God. Need to quit feeding that thing bonbons.

Here's another episode of Flat Earth Friday, this time debunking a YouToober who has OVER 200,000 SUBSCRIBERS. I love the smug, self-satisfied-with-self-delusion tone in the voice of this just-another-Dunning-Kruger-effected-moron incapable of drawing correct inferences from available data, who really thinks he's smarter than everybody else and sees through the grandest conspiracy of them all.

Stalled due to research. Dennis Lacey sent me some great reference pix of a real head, but I went off down the rabbit hole of what would have been the absolute trickest carbs to have used back then. I settled on either Amals or SUs, which, as side-drafts, would have eliminated the 90o direction change in flow from using down-drafts. Easily worth a few HP. As a what-if, state-of-the-art car built by somebody with knowledge of European practice as well as American, these would be naturals. Anyway, that's where she stuck. I've been looking for the easiest-to-scratch-build, or some old ones that look like the stuff from the '50s I can copy.

^^^ I'll sweeten the deal even more. I'll provide a very high quality 1/25 scale master, guaranteed to fit the existing kit parts perfectly, and as close to 1:1 dimensionally accurate as humanly possible, while still fitting the original kit as it needs to. Scan the master. Cut the outer surfaces of the tool. Save lotsa $$ in development.

You're welcome. Excellent choice for your application. I put one under this thing...

Columbia. https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2006/06/Columbia-two-speed-rears/1280603.html

Here's a slam-dunk. AMT/R2 already has this, which is pretty good. Change NOTHING but the body shell. NOT THE HOOD, GRILLE, OR ANYTHING ELSE. I'll even provide a correct set of dimensions taken from a real car, for FREE. And work closely with the tooling designers to make sure it comes out RIGHT and actually FITS the earlier parts correctly...for FREE.

of cheeseburger trainers

^^^ I thought that looked familiar.

When you're looking at a member's page, click "activity", then on the LH side, click "topics". That will take you to a list of every thread they've started.

This is definitely helpful. I have many more projects that need headlight lenses than I have lenses, and I need to make copies where I only have one of what I need. How does this stuff sand after it's fully hardened?

Those headers are fake. The high, front 3/4 shot of the engine shows that quite clearly. Ford flathead V8 engines had 3 exhaust ports.

being very common

recounted childhood traumas

while sentient cantaloupes

to hit kumquats

Beautiful and inspirational.