Ace-Garageguy

I guess I'm just too blind and incompetent to see any need for better resolution.

Yeah, it is.

You see "texture" on that carb? You do realize the photo is blown up maybe 50 times from the actual size, right? Show me anything injection molded that looks that good magnified that much. Anything.

I guess you failed to read the part that said I use the stuff EXTENSIVELY. Have for YEARS. The plastic you're shooting the stuff on is most likely a harder, more solvent-resistant grade than what's commonly available today. Or not. Duplicolor has been changing formulas and packaging frequently lately. I have no idea what exact product YOU have, but I know how the stuff I have works. I have several models whose surfaces are so degraded by the crazing from Duplicolor products, they are unusable for anything but rust jobs. I don't talk out my backside, as just about anyone here knows.

The fellas who made 'em already posted 'em. But just to save anybody from having to do their own looking... 3D-printed wire wheels. 1/25 scale, from Model Builders' Warehouse. Thread here... 3D-printed 1/25 scale Stromberg. Thread here...

You disagree?

I've previously posted extensive info, including video, of today's technology. There is a set of wire wheels shown in a three-part thread of mine that's well beyond anything ever done in styrene, and they eliminate the need for the tedious wire-lacing that was the only way to go previously. One member here has provided me with some samples of his parts as well, which he's also posted here on the forum. They are, in a word, spectacular, even under magnification.

Self-etching primer is generally formulated with HOT thinners, and they do indeed craze plastic, especially if shot at all wet. I've used 'em all extensively, as I always have stock from my real-car work. SEM and Duplicolor will both etch and craze most styrene badly...particularly the bottom-of-the-barrel soft goo kits are made from in China these days. Even non-self-etch automotive primers will wreak havoc with the surface of most kits, if they're shot straight from the can, wet enough to flow out. The ONLY styrene I've found to be relatively impervious to self-etch is old Johan annuals. Far as sealer under automotive basecoat goes, there's no hard-and-fast rule, even on REAL cars. In general, the fewer coats of ANYTHING you can shoot to get the desired finish, the better. Sealers are promoted by the paint industry as necessary because they're profit-makers, and they're often simply not needed. Sealers are most correctly employed when a bleeding or crazing problem occurs, and each case should be treated as a separate event. TEST the base you want to use on the underside or inside OF PARTS FROM THE SPECIFIC KIT YOU'RE WORKING ON.

Not to be snarky, but you're well behind the curve if you really believe that. I have seen (in person) and now have in my possession some other 3D-printed parts that exceed the quality that's EVER been obtained via injection-molded styrene. The technology is "there" today. It's just a matter of time before it becomes widely available. And I'm NOT one to give praise where it's undeserved...as anyone familiar with my posts will know. There are four 1/25 parts on my bench that should satisfy the MOST DEMANDING MODELER for as long as building models is a hobby.

Very nice miniature fab work. I'm curious...do you work with magnification, or are your eyes still good enough to go unaided?

Recently added this old girl to the collection of kits slated to make up an HO scale heavy industrial scene. She's very much a "craftsman" kit.

Interesting project, looking good. It's difficult to believe that anyone with a gram of competence or self respect would sell a pinholey mess like that resin thing though.

Glad you guys enjoyed it. Bear in mind that the driver is taking it VERY easy on the gearbox. The upshifts are noticeably slow compared to what you'd hear in a real race, possibly because the box is still cold. The downshifts are slow too, with a lot more throttle-blipping to match revs than you'd normally hear if the car was actually racing. Again, the box may be cold and stiff, it may be tired, or the driver may just be being gentle with semi-priceless old parts out of respect for the machine.

1) The rear deck should open to view the engine, just like it does on the real car. 2) Trying to cut holes on styrene with a "knife" isn't the way to go. It's a good way to hurt yourself too. 3) If you DON'T need to make panels that can be reinserted in the holes, start with a drill bit that's smaller than the hole you want, and open it the rest of the way with files. 4) If you DO want to be able to fit the panels you cut out back into the holes, your best bet is to repeatedly scribe the opening line with a suitable tool until you go all the way through.

In my experience, the only "Bondo" product you want is the 2-part. It will fill very thick with no shrinkage. The only place you want to use a one-part putty is on VERY THIN fills, or pinholes. I've tried 'em all, and for my money, Tamiya white is the winner.

I think you're on the right track. The end of this series was to have combined the best of the parts...not complete, but through final mockup...based on very careful measurement and study of photos of the original car. I'll get to it someday, but time constraints right now make it a back-burner project. At this point, i'm inclined to believe that the original body parts are the more accurate, as you surmise. Definitely use the old engine/gearbox. Just getting the stance right with the new-kit running gear and wheels/tires would go a LONG way towards achieving the right look, though. The original sits wrong. Another improvement would be to use the rear end from one of the OLD Revell model-A kits too. They are correctly represented with the axle housing "bells" separate from the center section.

Guess you beat me by 5 years. Oh well.

Yes. It's sold in auto-parts stores in a 3-ounce tube. Comes with the right hardener. It's now my go-to filler for most work, though Joe's recommended epoxy products are very good too. It's easy to mix consistently if you think about what you're doing, and do a little measuring.

Glad I bought an HRM Cheetah when I had the chance. It's a real little gem. Got a couple of old Cox bodies and some clear plastic repops around the same time too. The problems with the real Cheetah could have been easily rectified had the project been better financed, and if the factory hadn't burned after only 10 or 11 cars were built. The handling issues were due primarily to an unfortunately flexible chassis, built of tubing that was too small ID to do the job for a serious race car. Though the chassis designer did in fact know his stuff, the original intent was for a limited-production sports-car, NOT a racer. The cars were also hampered by 4-wheel drum brakes. The Corvette-derived suspension was OK, but was designed for a much heavier boulevard cruiser, not a racer...and was used to control costs. The somewhat awkward driving position could have been mitigated by setting the engine to the side a tad, and fixing the cockpit heating problem would have hardly been rocket-science, even using the materials of the day. Still, it's a spectacular looking car...to me...and will always be one of my favorites visually.

This will get you pretty close. Walker's car doesn't have the flipper tail, but I think the kit comes with two decklids...I'll check. Same kit... You'll also want to decide which look to go for. The car has been fitted with traditional Fuchs wheels in varying widths, as well as others...

Dang. After seeing the shots above, I REALLY want a J-car to add to my historic racing cars collection. An original GT40 would be nice too.

Very helpful. Thanks.

For those of youse who don't like the relocated front wheel openings on the Foose version, you might be interested to know I think I did it first...in 2011.

Fascinating indeed. Your historical insights and background knowledge are always much appreciated. And speaking of tooling...I wasn't able to attend the injection-molding (and rapid-prototyping) event here in Atlanta last week re: getting some rough numbers on the '34 Ford 3W shell. A medical issue that came up while I was out of town last week took precedence. Oh well.