Ace-Garageguy

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking too. IIRC, those header panels were fiber-reinforced hard plastic. Trying to pop the hood latch by putting a long bar under the lip of the hood right at the crease and levering down usually cracked and depressed the header just like that...

Always a treat to see the wild work you do. Rock on.

Great concept, wheels look just right, I'll be watching.

Wow. Just wow.

Man. Damm man. Man oh man. This is great. I know almost zip-zero-nada about big trucks, but thanks to youse guys, I can get at least a few things right. Great thread.

I well remember this beauty, and think it surpasses what Foose did by miles. This one is SO good, it really needs to be built full-scale. That is one gorgeous set of lines, sir.

Looking really good, sir. Early Porsches are one of my passions, an area of extensive experience, so I'm very interested in this build. I have this kit but don't recall ever really looking at it closely. You're certainly doing it justice though, and if your air horns were drilled out, the first impression of your engine would be of the real thing. Nice work.

I just put it on the bench and took a careful look. Best thing about it is that the door lines are scribed nice and square, nice round corners too, with none of the "jiggle" you often see on bodies from some people. The side trim is washed out, nowhere near as crisp as the AMT shell, but it can be removed entirely and put back with strip styrene. It looks like the release agent, at least when the mold was made, was polyvinyl alcohol, which can impart a slightly grainy texture if it's shot dry...which is present. Overall though, and as the model built from it will represent something pulled out of a junkyard to drag-race, it will be just fine. I have no idea what the quality is like on his other stuff. I've been looking at his Poncho wagons too, 'cause I'd like to do a towcar to go with my Challenger I. If you buy one, let me know how it is please.

Had to miss the Mitty at Road Atlanta this weekend due to a medical thing. Gorgeous weather too...78F, 24% humidity...bugger. Can't really go outside or do much of anything, which is why I'm sitting here on the computer whining. Maybe I ought to get a hobby...

Here's a whole article on it. https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/adam-kylie-perry-wild-custom-fb-holden-tailspin

Finally broke down and bought a reasonable OBD I / OBD II scanner to keep at home. Newest thing I own is 2005, but it's nice to be able to talk to some of the older ones when they're not feeling well. The '05 seems to be becoming a hypochondriac, and she's convinced she needs a cam-position sensor...even though she runs fine. Then one day, she just won't start. Clear the codes, she's good for another coupla weeks. Works well with my motto of "never fix anything today that can possibly be put off until it's really inconvenient or an emergency". The '86 Jag, '89 Yotota and the '92 Chebby truck need some love and understanding too. I'm not sure this thing can interpret Jagspeak, but it will work on the others.

Got a nice not-too-glooey AMT '40 Ford from a fellow member here. You know who you are sir, and thanks again. Rolled the dice on a '40 4-door body from Vic's Resins, and it's pretty decent. Symmetry isn't perfect, but it's good enough for what I need, casting's bubble-free, and it looks like it'll clean up nicely. Thought it would be kinda fun to do a junkyard-parts lesser-class early gasser with a 4-dr shell, probably a first-gen carbed Caddy OHV engine, or a Y-block, or maybe a six...

Coupla things I didn't mention last time... I stripped the wheels, thinned the rim on the front to get rid of the fat, toylike look, and shot it with decanted green Duplicolor self-etch. Looks like with some tinkering with tints, I can get a good match for the old Dow7 coating used on magnesium parts. The ancient Revell parts-pack rear wheels, after stripping the chrome, also take SEM black self-etch without any crazing. I'm hoping this stuff will be tough enough to kill the tendency of this wheel-tire combination to melt down at the junction between vinyl and plastic. The wheels still need to be drilled for the 6-bolt pattern this rear axle would have. I made up bosses on the front axle to take pins at the bottom of the shocks. You can see here she's still sitting on the spacer jigs between frame and axle. You also get a little of the effect of narrowing the lips on the front rims here. Using the shocks as jigs, I made up a little structure to take the shock tops. Not elegant engineering, but entirely plausible for the period and class this car represents. In this shot, the support spacer-jigs have been removed, and she's sitting on the springs. Again, notice the effect of the thinner wheel rims. The .020" styrene the main spring-leaves are made from, suitably arched, will support the weight of the chassis at this point, but the shocks will most likely be necessary to support the body etc., which is part of what they're intended to do on this build anyway.

How long are we supposed to let each one go? I found the answer, and it's definitely real or P'shopped. Is it time yet?

Show us. I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd like to see how it's done.

That's not the way I read the random, kinked looking stuff under the belly of the top photo. But I've been wrong before, and if I am again, it's OK. Really.

I agree. Much as I dislike most "rats", this crazy thing actually has some interesting lines, and judging from the video, the engineering is decent too.

I gotta go with P'shopped on that one. Nobody could intentionally build anything that incredibly horrible. I hope.

Nice work. The old Johan bodies are beautifully engraved and proportioned, and the substitution of the excellent Lindberg chassis and related parts is exactly what's needed.

Model. A real beauty, but it's a model. No helo crew chief would allow all that dangling wire under the belly. Never. Ever. And if one did, he should be removed from duty. Aviation people are the most anal-retentive folks on the planet...for good reason. And...that's a British-built Westland Wessex turbine-engined development of the old radial-powered Sikorsky H-34 / S-58. The screen in the front air intake is very obviously a scale-model part, at least to anyone familiar with the real machines. The fit of the cockpit glazing gives it away too, and some of the details in the rotor hub are a little heavy. Beautiful, beautiful model though.

^^^ That car has a custom chassis by The Roadster Shop (the body is a stressed part of the structure in the factory cars, but is just along for the ride on this one), and was intended to run a Windsor-based twin-turbo 428 built by Nelson Racing Engines. The chassis, as shown, is lacking triangulation in critical areas, and due to its design, the engine will have to come out through the interior in the event major work is needed. The engine comes out through the engine bay on the factory cars, as the small crossmember that ties the upper suspension pickup points together is a bolt-in assembly. It's welded permanently as a major structural element in the Chassis Shop frame. http://roadstershop.com/galleries/nre-pantera/ https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=9201 Last I heard, it was for sale in unfinished condition. EDIT: Yup. https://www.thedrive.com/tuned-af/17106/theres-an-unfinished-de-tomaso-pantera-project-with-a-twin-turbo-windsor-v-8-for-sale

Agreed, but there are multiple other shots of it on the web. It's called the "Hulk Camino".

Close, but believe you'll find it's a '33 or '34. The slightly sloping grille shell is the giveaway. The '32 had the same vertical grille shell as the '32 cars (though the truck shell is a slightly different part from the cars). The cabs of the '32-'34 were dimensionally the same (though there are certain detail differences between '32 and '33-'34 cabs, they will interchange), but the '33-'34 is on a longer wheelbase (6" longer) and the sloping grille shell helps to take up some of the additional length. '32 Ford pickups are on the '32 one-year-only 106" wheelbase frame. '33-'34 pickups are on the 112" wheelbase frame The slope isn't really very noticeable (it's most easily seen in a direct side-view shot) and many photos on the web are incorrectly identified. The rear edge of the grille shell on the '32 is parallel with the hood side louvers, where the rear edge slopes on the '33-'34, with the bottom being farther forward than the top. The lower edge of the '33-'34 hood side panels is longer than the top to accommodate the slope. It's easily seen on the AMT/Lindberg kits, which get it right. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/34-ford-pick-up-questions.281795/

Page 3 and beyond also shows the steps to scratch-building a straight-axle and leaf springs...