Ace-Garageguy

The height issue should be a very easy fix, considering how this kit assembles. I need to get a few sets, and avoid the time-consuming monotony of doing all those lovely louvers.

The 1900 is a considerably larger car overall than the Giuliettas, with a significantly longer wheelbase, and about 3" wider if memory serves. The engines, though both DOHC fours, are entirely different designs and don't look at all alike.

should hoard ammunition

and hoard Spam

Yeah, put me down for all of it. At first I discounted the Starion, but then remembered I used to maintain one that ran ESI-R in SCCA, so I guess I'd buy that too.

How 'bout a Bentley R-type Continental?

Truly beautiful work.

Bugger. More stuff I "was getting around to" buying. Dangity dang dang dang.

and intelligent government

Fine looking model, nice proportions, and exceptionally nice hood fit. Still, I'm glad the Easter-egg colors and billet everything are about done in the 1:1 world.

for believing in

Couple threads you might want to go through to get an overview, and maybe help to clarify exactly the questions you have...

I have no first-hand experience, though several guys on here have.

Somewhere around 5 or more years ago, I bought a resin repop of a Johan '61 Dodge Phoenix. Without doubt, one of the nicest resin repops I've ever seen. Sorry, but I don't know the guy's handle. I've also bought the odd Flintstone kit from several resellers, and no matter who you but the stuff from, quality is somewhat uneven. Poor symmetry sometimes, masters under-scale in some dimensions, sometimes very thick. But good enough when they're the only game in town for a particular subject. Whoever made my Metranga Merc (bought from eBay too) did quite a nice job all the way around.

and thick bacon

See if you can find Bill Geary's thing on doing the pillars so the "glass" just snaps in. Otherwise, if it's fitted carefully, white PVA glue works great. Or clear epoxy if you want to play with it.

Agreed, but we've talked this over on thread after thread. Many people want not particularly noteworthy cars they used to own, that would most likely sell in the hundreds, if that many. Obvious slam-dunks like a bulletnose Stude for Moebius, a good '34 3-window Ford body to update the pretty decent AMT '34 5-window kit, and a '26-'27T-bodied version of Revell's recent (lost forever?) model A kits...that would be good sellers and in two cases revitalize tooling that's mostly already done...seem to be ignored by the manufacturers. So...you give somebody good, sound advice and they don't want it. After a while, it just gets to be "why bother". PS: I'd buy both of those pretty red Alfas.

There's a lot of info on annealing brass for gun cartridge reloading on the net, but I won't post a link for fear of triggering the wrath of some...body. If you want to make a brass body, odds are that you're going to need either a wooden buck, or a tubular or rod-stock framework to assemble it on. This guy goes into annealing and bending round section stock.

It's the witches I feel bad for.

And I could go for this Riviera. If you didn't know what it was, you'd think it was a Jag sedan or something exotic (with just a little detail cleanup and the right wheels). I'd also really like to have a model of at least one of the showcars Ghia did for Chrysler in the 1950s. Hemi-powered gentleman's express. Odds of it happening? Zero.

Far too much potential for people to expect the site to become the mediator for sales gone wrong. "I sent money and never got my stuff" "No he didn't". Yada yada yada. eBay has a conflict resolution procedure to deal with problems like that, but the time and resources don't exist here to do it. Trades seem to work OK for the most part, when they're conducted between long-term members. But somehow, folding green has a nasty side-effect of making nice people turn nasty sometimes. I've been able to work out "trades" for cash occasionally when I didn't have what the poster wanted in kits and really wanted his item, but it's best to keep it off the board...in my opinion.

Sasquatch droppings smell

If you're working with sheet brass, you're going to be soldering. This guy is THE MAN:

A competent machinist working with a mill and lathe in his back shed can easily command $100 per hour making real stuff, and depending on your market, being able to do one-off, non-CNC work, you can just about name any price you want. If you aren't going to be making a pretty fair chunk of money for HIGHLY SKILLED WORK (that probably only one in 10,000 people...literally...can do) using EXPENSIVE TOOLS, why bother?