Ace-Garageguy

Ah yes...now that I actually READ the first line of the first post that says "B/RB", I see that.

I'd love to see it, and even if it gets re-tooled as a full-detail kit, it's sure to be significantly more cost effective to be able to start with an existing tool that makes a correct-looking body than doing all the measuring of a real car (with all the potential pitfalls THAT apparently faces). There are lots of things that could be done with this car, other than the beautiful stock builds shown above. For instance... 1959 was the last year for Dodge on a full frame, so, though I haven't researched it, I'd think one of the AMT '50s Mopars...the '58 Belvedere or the '57 300C...would yield a close chassis swap if necessary.

It looks like a potentially really nice part. If the dimensions are as stated above (.440" for the correct flange-to-flange measurement, vs. .435" for the part shown), the resulting discrepancy is only .005". so a .0025" shim on either side of the manifold should clear up the problem nicely. For such a small amount, it's always possible, probably preferable, to move the heads inboard just slightly (which I often do to allow a manifold from one kit to fit a similar engine in another one). Personally, I'd prefer to have the part made slightly OVERSIZE at the flanges so it could be filed-to-fit, rather than undersize requiring shimming. Lots less work to correct it...and if somebody is going to the trouble of purchasing a relatively expensive 3D printed part for a specific application, they're probably the kind of modeler who would like it to actually fit with no gaps or wonkyness.

Bug truck from MIB...again, slab-sided, easy to scratch...except for the large insect on the roof (not shown here).

That'll keep you in shape...

The 6.1 has even port spacing like the earlier Mopar hemi engines, not paired runners like the model above, and a very different sealing surface angle.

You're not limited to expensive "tooling" foam either. Below, I'm using cheap polyurethane refrigeration insulation foam to rough-sculpt some custom bits for a Jag E-type. After the shapes are close, the surface is fiberglassed, and a thin application of bondo is used to develop the final contours. You make molds at that point, and can reproduce as many copies as you need. This technique also scales down to work on models perfectly.

Even small pieces of scrap foam can be used for custom work. Here, pieces of scrap structural aircraft foam are being shaped to form corners of a rolled rear pan. The foam is then filled with epoxy or bondo, and sanded to final shape, primed, and painted.

There are a lot of ways to use foam. This is a full-scale model of one of my own designs, and it's made with foil-faced foam for the backbone and ribs, and planked with urethane foam sawed into flexible strips on a table saw. A similar method could work for a smaller scale model as well. And as Dave said, definitely wear a GOOD FITTING RESPIRATOR. A cheapo dust mask won't cut it.

Mostly flat panels, easy to scratch-build.

I have several issues of that kit here. I'll have a look this evening...if nobody beats me to it earlier.

Fine looking mild custom. Just enough, not too much. Very nice.

Man, THAT is slick. Small scale engine-turning? Too cool. It tries my patience to do that in 1:1.

I do a lot of heavy modifications, so I often have need of a means of fastening parts temporarily while evaluating styling changes, component placement, and general mocking-up. I've developed several techniques that work very well for me, but may not be for everyone. A tiny drop of CA makes an excellent temporary adhesive sometimes, as it doesn't penetrate and can usually be snapped quite easily, then the residue cleaned off with files and sandpaper. I also very often use a VERY small amount of liquid "cement", carefully placed with either a very fine hypodermic needle (diabetes-style) or a Touch-n-Flow applicator. It's not a method for the timid, because the stuff DOES actually "weld" parts together, and too much can make parts difficult to get apart. I also rely on plain old rubber cement for assembling engines and the like. It works well for broad flat surfaces like cylinder-heads-to-blocks, and manifolds, timing covers, bellhousings, etc. It's re-positionable and comes off very easily when it's time for final assembly. A drop also works well for keeping tires from rolling away while stance and ride height are determined during the mockup phase. While I use white-glues (PVA, like Elmers and Testors and Microscale Krystal Klear) for permanent installation of clear parts, it doesn't have any initial "grab", so It doesn't fit my needs as a temporary adhesive, usually.

My slow page loads or occasional upload dump seem to occur with no rhyme nor reason, with no common denominators as to time of day, topics new or old, etc. My connection speeds are pretty damm fast, and the browser I favor for most web surfing rarely has any slow-loading problems anywhere else but here. The problem is really only a minor inconvenience though. When we get used to pretty much instant page loads and scrolling, reliable uploads and photo insertions, just about any small degradation in performance seems huge. And then I remember the days of dial-up. Boy, do we have it good now.

Boy, do I understand that. Unfortunately, that's often where I'll stop for a long time. I don't honestly know if it has something to do with a fear of completion, or a nagging feeling that the rest of the build might not live up to the first part, or what...but it sure can be saddening sometimes to see so many 1/2 or 3/4 or 7/8 done models with so much potential that may never get finished.

A truly great line.

Tooling foam in various densities is routinely used today to CNC-mill full-scale prototype parts and even entire bodies, on huge 5-axis machines. The technique saves a lot of the time previously required by styling studios to build wooden armatures and under-structure...and has replaced a lot of highly skilled craftsmen. CNC milling of tooling foam can produce what's referred to as "near net" shapes, that require only relatively minimal finishing using traditional manual methods.

I had no clue. Cute, in a runt puppy sort of way, but kinda looks like the result of a night of wild passion shared between a post-war Crosley and a riding lawnmower.

I have a lathe, Gary, and I know how to use it. The pulley-groove spacing on the commercially available pulleys wasn't to my liking, and I've been tweaking the procedure to make tiny parts with a big 'ol machine. About the ONLY way anybody could make a decent looking v-belt representation is by machining grooves in something with some kind of turning tool. Not too hard to figure out, if you think, now is it? But YOU always have to start the name calling, don't you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsKOYQ7z9CE

Here's a link to the manufacturer's website, with more info. http://www.amaco.com/t/mixed-media/modeling-and-mold-making/balsa-foam I've used Balsa-Foam and a similar product called RenShape for many years, as well as a variety of other urethane and styrene foams, clays and machinable wax....though I suspect MOST of the resin model prototypes, as they're primarily modifications of existing models, were carved using materials like traditional Bondo and original kit parts. RenShape foam: https://www.freemansupply.com/products/machinable-media/renshape-tooling-and-high-temperature-work-boards

Ronin.

Cool little car! I have one of those kits waiting for inspiration, and yours looks great. I had a real Dauphine Gordini for a while in mid 1970s. Bought it for $35 US with a burned exhaust valve, fixed it and drove it for many months. Great fun, but even the Gordini (36 HP instead of 27) was pretty painfully slow.

There are a number of machined aluminum multi-grooved scale pulleys on the market, and modelers have been using a variety of materials to accurately represent V-belts (like thin strips of electrical tape) for many years. Maybe putting tape belts on aluminum pulleys...hmmmmm... Oh wait...that's exactly what I'm doing for a build representing an early post-war (that's WW II for the history-challenged) GMC-blown, Ardun-headed lakes car. Not really rocket science to combine the two.