Fat Brian

I bought it on ebay, it came in a two pack with a more rectangular one.

The rear window on the blue car is also open toward the rear changing the viewing angle a bit.

I would do black on the whole thing then shoot the sun faded areas with either a less black black or black cut with just a touch of gray. Then satin clear everything and finally hit the most faded areas with flat clear. It will be much easier with an air brush but can be done with cans if you find the correct blacks.

Yeah, it's possible you're getting through the finish somehow. Try using a Q-tip to burnish the foil down and when you cut it you only need a little more pressure than the weight of the knife. Try it one a spare body until you get the feel of it.

The wheels in the Revell 2014 GT kit are close.

Since you plan on polishing the body I would put a couple coats of clear over the decals. Nothing is worse than burning through the clear and ruining the decals.

I got the bed roughed in, need to do some trimming and sanding once the glue dries. Then I can start on rear fenders and the wrecker setup.

I thought about that but didn't know how visible the axle was going to be and I found it fairly cheap.

I was going to do that but all of the banjo rear ends I have are open on the top so I didn't want to put even more work into it. Fortunately I was able to find a kit breaker selling just the chassis from the 40 so I didn't have to buy an entire kit.

Okay, that's a lot different than what thought you were asking. Here is how I did that. I cut out the area over the axle and notched up into the wheel wells the amount I needed to lower it. Then I used strips of styrene on the top of the chassis plate to deepen where the axle goes through. Once that was deep enough I used a flat sheet to replace the floor pan piece then sealed the wheel wells back with more strips. I still need to trim the inside but this is what it looks like.

Check out these wheels from Hobby Design, they're 19 inches but have the exposed lug nuts and are big and little. I have a set and they're very nice, I think Tamiya slicks might fit them as well. I can check when I get home if you're interested. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/303417172134

What I do is make the part a little long, fit the joint how I want it, then sand the flat end to correct the length. Parts that are mitered on both ends can get a bit tricky.

Nope, that generation of Bronco was not done. However, three different companies did the 80-86 body style. Of the three the Monogram 1/24th kit looks the most like the real thing out of the box. It's also the easiest to get ahold of at a reasonable price. The Revell and MPC kits both have shape issues around the window/windshield area. If you want one really bad you could get the 92-96 Lightning kit that's out now and cut it up. For the top you could post in the Wanted section and see if anyone has one they'd part with. I have parts of an MPC kit and could take some measurements for you to plan your cuts.

The Revell drag Cobra has a hard top.

This is an interesting question, my dad worked in printing and worked twelve hour days because setting up the press with ink and plates and blankets and getting all four roller sets in register could take and hour or two and cleanup was at least an hour. Once you get the thing running right it's best to just let it go as long as possible.

If I remember correctly those in the know have posted that most kit runs are around 5,000 units these days, maybe 10k if they think they've got a hot seller coming out.

There's a nice set of big and little mesh wheels in the Monogram 79 Camaro. They're 1/24th scale so will look about like 16 or 17 inch wheels in 1/25th.

I got the car up on its wheels, hopefully the rear axle will be here soon so I can get rid of the bamboo skewer. I want to build the stretched hood but I'm not really sure how to get it done.

That sounds good. It's a surprisingly big engine to be four cylinders, I didn't expect to have to move the cab nearly as much as I did.

Those are very close to what I had in mind. I've been spending a few days getting the car up on its wheels while I look at wrecker options and wait on parts.

Sure. The block is 25mm from the head mounting surface to the oil pan and front to back, basically square. I used an 8v-71 head and valve cover from a kit as well as the front and rear gear sets. You'll need to shorten the kit oil pan about an inch or so, the 8v-71 has something around the crank pulley that the 4-71 doesn't.

Awesome, thanks Bill.

Pretty much the title, I'm looking for a Columbia 2 speed rear end for a project. Kit or resin doesn't matter.

Yep, from the pic there were a few thicker ones and maybe enough of the same thinner oners to laminate a couple together.

Thanks, I've been wanting to build one for a long time but couldn't find measurements for the block. Finally I remembered that one of the jobs I'm working on has this ancient old pan with a 4-71 so I snuck down there on a rainy day and got the dimensions I needed.