Fat Brian

Ryan at Z-force was supposed to be working on one in 1/25 but I don't know if he got it finished or not.

I have this particular one bad, fully a third or more of the kits I have are donors for other builds.

My order didn't make it today, but it got to New York yesterday so it should be here by the end of the week.

Yeah, I don't know that the shape of the silver one is functionally possible, at least not for a chain driven unit.

The majority of those are the venerable NP205, used by all of the Big 3 in the 70s and in heavy duty Chevy's and Dodges into the 90s. Column 1 #1 and #3, column 2 #1, column 3 #1 and #2, and column 4 #1 and #2 all look like various interpretations of an NP205.

I placed an order with Dmitry from ebay who used to be with USCP last month and so far everything is going okay. It's supposed to be here Monday so I'll update then. I know it's not the same company but it's coming from the same city.

As Hakan said, it takes a lot of fitting to get the parts to go together correctly and run straight. I might spend an entire day filing and fitting and adjusting to get the thing to true up.

I live just outside Charlotte. Painting in the summer can be brutal if you have to paint outside but drying too fast will certainlynot be an issue. It doesn't really matter for flat colors but if I'm painting something shiny in the summer I try to shoot it around mid day, the humidity is way too high in the morning and late afternoon. Another thing I've done is try to batch paint bodies in the winter on nice dry days. This worked better before winter turned into monsoon season around here. It's really going to depend on your setup and where you paint as much as anything.

I took a wooden dowel about 3/16 in diameter and six inches long and drilled into one end and stuck the unwrapped core wire of a wound guitar string in it. I left about 1/8 of an inch of wire exposed and it's just a bit thicker than an Xacto blade. It also makes a good scratch awl for marking tiny holes for drilling.

That is paint shrinkage. The color coat didn't bond to the primer properly. You'll have to see what kind of paint the color is and pick a more appropriate primer for it.

I'm working on closing up the interior now, the rear fire wall is done but the front looks like it's going to be tough.

I swapped a v8 for a turbo 4cyl that's less that half the displacement and I'm at least doubling the fuel capacity so I've got fuel economy covered. Driver comfort is a bit limited though due to the race interior.

With a bit of work you put the chassis of the Revell 64 GTO under the Malibu body to give it a stock chassis.

Finally some progress to show. I've been working on making room in the interior for a second person, the original interior barely has room for one. I cut away the lower bars of the roll cage and added in the door bars from a NASCAR kit, I still need to add a few more braces to tie them into the rest of the cage fully. I also filled the holes in the side of the body where the exhaust originally exited, I'm planning something more stealthy. I'm still trying to figure out the tire situation, I'd like to use the stock wheels but I'm having a hard time finding any street tires that will fit them. Here's a pic of the stock interior. and the changes so far

The Impala would make a nice Cannonball car, room for 3 plus supplies.

I really like the Restomod and Pro Touring style, especially for non original or rare classic cars. I built this 77 Mustang a couple years ago for the Cannonball Run and it very much fits your description. I stretched the wheelbase almost two feet and grafted the wheel openings from a 2008 Mustang onto the body. I used styrene strips and putty to make a widebody kit and the front and rear fascias with molded in decrhromed bumpers. I used the front suspension from the 08 Mustang and the independent rear from a 350Z. To be fair though I borrowed the design from a real car someone built.

Tell her thank you for her vote and I'm glad she liked my build.

I understand that feeling, but in the words of Mitch Hedberg "F*** it, cut 'em up!"

I've never had a problem with Chrome so I don't dullcote it unless I'm going for that look.

Duplicate post

I wonder if there was a transition period where the air ride is okay for an early B but was phased out later or if the transition happened in the same year? Sounds like a research opportunity.

That's the kit I bought to borrow the engine from, I'm probably gonna throw the v8 from the kit I'm building in it if I ever build it. I started to do a 71-73 Mustang from the MPC/AMT that's been out recently I have laying around but after looking it over I'd want to replace so much of the chassis it really didn't fit the spirit of the challenge in my mind.

I feel you there, I spent $60 on the black Mustang before realizing it had a different body than what I wanted, $40 on the Mustang GTP for the 4 cyl engine, then another $25 to get the right kit with the body I wanted and I got super lucky only paying $25 for it. And I might need to get wheels and tires if I can't find treaded tires to fit the oddball kit wheels.

There was only ever one tooling, it started as the A and was altered/updated into the B. If they were able to use it it would have produced the B as it was in the last 90s issue. To produce a B model from the new tooling they wouldn't have to replicate the old kit exactly. They could just have an insert that has the differences in the front of the cab that were mentioned a few posts back and the square headlight surrounds. The engine, chassis, suspension, and wheels could all stay the same.

These look very good.