Fat Brian

I would go G60 and L60, especially if you're using the 1/24 kit.

Yes, here is the image from the site.

Check with Fireball, he just put out a line of tires in graduated sizes that fit the AMT wheels.

To add to what others have said, one thing I had to learn was the discipline to finish a build. For years I bounced from project to project never really finishing anything. Returning to those partial builds now I'm not satisfied with the quality of the work I did so now I have to redo the work or relegate that to a parts kit and start over fresh. Pushing through each phase of a build is a skill of its own.

I can't help you with the drawings but for notching tunes a cheap set of jewelers files is great.

The biggest problem I had with that kit and the one I see mentioned most is that the headers are tough to get situated well. You can't attach them until the engine is mounted in the chassis and the chassis is in the body. Then you have to snake them up from the bottom between the frame and engine block. Sometimes you have to bend them a bit to get them to line up with the exhaust ports and have the outlet pointed in the right direction.

USCP also make a big and little set of those Fuchs wheels in 18".

I agree with Roger, keep an eye out for an MPC kit that's missing some parts. I picked up a Mule Skinner for $40 that someone had robbed the front suspension from. You can replace almost anything that's missing with parts from the from the Deserter kit. I think the cab, hood, grille, bumpers, firewall, and bed are the only major parts that are different. The Revell kit isn't that good and if you want it stock you're still going to be missing some hard to find pieces like stock bumpers. The chassis is also their "one size fits all" job from that time period.

Against my better judgment I'm going to wade into this. I've held off buying anything from Iceman because the pictures on ebay aren't very good and nothing posted here has changed my mind. His 3d models are low polygon count leading to the octagonal headers and the printer is equally of a lower resolution than what is really necessary for our small scale. I can't speak to if or how much paint it takes to hide the layers as I've never used a printed piece that heavily layered before. These are items I've gotten from Dmitry on ebay who used to be with the USCP guys. The difference in quality it obvious and the price is reasonable. The transmission was $8 and the wheels were $22. The clear stuff I got off Shapeways, it's the highest quality print they do and almost completely smooth.

I know your pain, my build for last year got painted five times and stripped four before I got something I could live with.

Wow, he managed to take a car I really like and kind of mess it up. Something about the front end is wrong, I think it's trying to give it the modern ducted front end look under the bumper and the fog lights. I'm also not feeling the tail lights, as someone else mentioned 70 Torino lights would have been better or even 67-69 Shelby lights. The horizontal stripe is at an odd place too, it should be above and follow the body crease and kick up along the rear fenders. The wheels are also doing UT no favors, I love big wheels but these are just not working.

Does anyone make rear windshields for these? I'm working on one too and would love to find a rear windshield, even a template would be better than nothing. This body is a shortened Ranchero body with the roof and deck lid from a 63 grafted on.

Round2 dropping both of these now does hint at something coming from another company. They seem to try to get their version of a kit out when there is a new version of it coming out later.

The 90s issue of this kit has some pretty nice BBS style mesh wheels, I guess they're still in it.

I made some bases out of sheet plastic for these lights. I just traced a circle on the sheet and sanded it out then covered it with bare metal foil and attached the amber lens with clear acrylic paint.

One thing I started doing that makes plug wires easier is drilling the holes all the way through the head and block into the hollow center of the block. This allows you to not have to trim the wire to an exact length.

A tip I'm going to try soon is to use metal washers. They come in a huge range of sizes for diameter, thickness, and hole size along with having a nice metallic sheen. Just add a piece of plastic filed vaguely into the shape of a caliper and you're ready to go.

The only 1/25 monster truck tires with lettering are the early AMT ones from the Bigfoot 1 kit and the 87-91 body style Bigfoot kits without the red and yellow stripes. Overall these tires are awful so I wouldn't recommend trying to find any. You're best bet is probably to try to find a 1/18 or so scale tire decal or dry transfer.

I think 10 might be the cockpit piece from a Johan funny car like Boss Hoss or Crazy Horse kits. 12 looks like the hood from the Revell stepside square body hot rod truck, 2 might be the dash from the same kit. That red dash might be from the MPC 80s Bronco.

I have some of those tires I can send you, pm me your address and I'll get them to you.

That's an early to mid twenties model T truck dressed up as a semi, what a neat little kit. As for tires, most AMT tires should fit those wheels.

Ryan at Z-force was supposed to be working on one in 1/25 but I don't know if he got it finished or not.

I have this particular one bad, fully a third or more of the kits I have are donors for other builds.

My order didn't make it today, but it got to New York yesterday so it should be here by the end of the week.

Yeah, I don't know that the shape of the silver one is functionally possible, at least not for a chain driven unit.