Fat Brian

Tamiya and Aoshima 17 and 18 inch tires fit the barrels.

It's builds easy but the fit is a bit too tight in places. I had to sand the edges of the interior down along the window sill for it to fit all the way in after everything was painted. Same with the hood, you will need to take a bit off the sides of the hood for it to fit after everything is painted. The rear glass is also tight after the body is done.

You did a good job on this, your skills are improving with each build.

The MPC Mustang IIs from the mid seventies have a decent chassis that can donate parts to a Pinto.

I'm not sure, the ride height is built from unmodified kit parts.

Yikes, I was just thinking about moving the door line back and having a modern engine and drivetrain.

I've got a 79 T/A that I want to do with a modern LS and Corvette suspension. Now I need to dig through the tire hoard and see what fits them.

Thanks everyone, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out for a quick build.

I just got my stuff and have to say everything looks very nice.

I wonder how well the chassis from the Foose Cadillac would fit in this kit? It might might a neat custom converted to a 2 door.

I can't imagine a gentle cleaning would hurt it, without knowing what kind of plastic it is I would start with slightly soapy water. As for who sells the best stuff it's kind of trial and error. I've gotten excellent stuff from Shapeways and a few pieces of junk. I just got a bunch of parts from Ra-sti's (camaro69 here) and everything was immaculate. Ron Olsen from Olsen Brothers also has a store called 3d Model Specialties and everything I've gotten from him has been great. When I order from Shapeways I always get the highest quality print the part is offered in.

Very nice, I've been eyeballing that kit myself. Those are some massive tires, you can always say it's got a 2jz in it.

I've been wanting to build a big, ignorant late 70s style build with the Revell Torino for a while now. Built basically out of the box I swapped the tires with AMT rubber and wheels from the pro-street Superbee. I also swapped the kit aircleaner for triangle ones also from the Superbee kit, headers from a Monogram 5.0 kit, valve covers from the Revell Boss 302 Mustang, and an a/c compressor. The Boss hood scoop is from the 69 Cougar kit and the rear spoiler is from a Revell 69 Mustang. Finally, I swapped the stock exhaust for side pipes from the Monogram 70 Chevelle.

It really depends on the quality of the print, some stuff has small steps and other things are nearly as smooth as kit parts.

I would go G60 and L60, especially if you're using the 1/24 kit.

Yes, here is the image from the site.

Check with Fireball, he just put out a line of tires in graduated sizes that fit the AMT wheels.

To add to what others have said, one thing I had to learn was the discipline to finish a build. For years I bounced from project to project never really finishing anything. Returning to those partial builds now I'm not satisfied with the quality of the work I did so now I have to redo the work or relegate that to a parts kit and start over fresh. Pushing through each phase of a build is a skill of its own.

I can't help you with the drawings but for notching tunes a cheap set of jewelers files is great.

The biggest problem I had with that kit and the one I see mentioned most is that the headers are tough to get situated well. You can't attach them until the engine is mounted in the chassis and the chassis is in the body. Then you have to snake them up from the bottom between the frame and engine block. Sometimes you have to bend them a bit to get them to line up with the exhaust ports and have the outlet pointed in the right direction.

USCP also make a big and little set of those Fuchs wheels in 18".

I agree with Roger, keep an eye out for an MPC kit that's missing some parts. I picked up a Mule Skinner for $40 that someone had robbed the front suspension from. You can replace almost anything that's missing with parts from the from the Deserter kit. I think the cab, hood, grille, bumpers, firewall, and bed are the only major parts that are different. The Revell kit isn't that good and if you want it stock you're still going to be missing some hard to find pieces like stock bumpers. The chassis is also their "one size fits all" job from that time period.

Against my better judgment I'm going to wade into this. I've held off buying anything from Iceman because the pictures on ebay aren't very good and nothing posted here has changed my mind. His 3d models are low polygon count leading to the octagonal headers and the printer is equally of a lower resolution than what is really necessary for our small scale. I can't speak to if or how much paint it takes to hide the layers as I've never used a printed piece that heavily layered before. These are items I've gotten from Dmitry on ebay who used to be with the USCP guys. The difference in quality it obvious and the price is reasonable. The transmission was $8 and the wheels were $22. The clear stuff I got off Shapeways, it's the highest quality print they do and almost completely smooth.

I know your pain, my build for last year got painted five times and stripped four before I got something I could live with.

Wow, he managed to take a car I really like and kind of mess it up. Something about the front end is wrong, I think it's trying to give it the modern ducted front end look under the bumper and the fog lights. I'm also not feeling the tail lights, as someone else mentioned 70 Torino lights would have been better or even 67-69 Shelby lights. The horizontal stripe is at an odd place too, it should be above and follow the body crease and kick up along the rear fenders. The wheels are also doing UT no favors, I love big wheels but these are just not working.