Fat Brian

I've had the exact same thing happen with a Flintstone King Cobra body for the Revell Torino. It's too small in every direction, like it's 1/26 scale instead of 1/25.

If you're having to put an excessive amount of pressure on the parts to get the wheels to click "home" you might need to make sure any flash or mold seams are cleaned up on the wheels stubbs. Also you might need to slightly open the tip of the hole if it had flash around it.

This is my first figure, though it was a bit like armor considering there's no skin or face. I love the Battletech and Mechwarrior games and have a love of big stompy robots in general. I wanted to build a few shelf sitters for decoration in my model room and the game pieces are the most affordable though small figures available. This little guy is about an inch and quarter tall and is made of white metal. I used Tamiya and Vallejo paints.

I use cans so they're $12-$14 a can usually.

Wow, what a glorious old boat. That's an amazing car.

I love the Mr. Hobby clears, they're expensive but worth every penny.

The best thing to do with import kits is to look them up before buying them to make sure they have what you're looking for. Some kits have great bodies but old chassis from when they were motorized.

My kit was already opened in the rear I didn't have to do any additional work to get it open. Yeah, fuel capacity and economy play a big part in the real Cannonball. I also swapped the v8 for a turbo 4cyl to maximize mpg. Losing a few seconds getting to top speed is more than made up for by fewer pit stops.

I'm getting back on the Mustang so hopefully I'll have it buttoned up in time. We've had a couple good painting days lately since I've managed to get the body in color and while it's curing I'm getting the chassis detail painted.

There is usually a good bit of room around the kit wheels so going bigger shouldn't be an issue to a point, 18 should be safe. There are some sets of aftermarket wheels that are big and little, just post the sets you're looking at here and someone should know what's inside.

Great, thank you.

Since those are plated you could brush paint it flat black and then use a Q tip to wipe the paint off the spring. For ones that aren't plated I paint them black then dry brush the spring whatever color I want it and paint the attachment points silver.

Can someone who has one of these tell me if the fender flares are separate pieces or not?

Any of the 1/25 AMT trailers should work. For that truck I would probably go with either the flatbed or lowboy, something that works hard in rough conditions. Maybe it's the equipment hauler for a construction company and gets neglected because it only gets driven a few times a year when they're moving equipment from one site to the next or hauls materials to job sites that are off the road a bit.

Yeah, for someone really dedicated to 1/25 scale it can be done. The hole in the hood needs to be dealt with and you won't have a stock front bumper but the Smittybilt bumper in the kit was a popular mod.

The interior is pretty good, it just has aftermarket bucket seats and a steering wheel. It's just hard to justify that much work when the Revell kit is so good.

Yeah, this is a win for me. It pays homage to the chassis design but modernized it in a clean way. Now, it's probably uncontrollable insanity to drive due to being only RWD but that's never going to be a me problem.

There is something in the pens that is part of the chrome reaction that evaporates out and ruins them. Both pens I bought were useless in a couple months but the refill is still as good as day one after two years. I just put a drop or two in a water bottle lid and apply it with a brush or toothpick.

I love Mr Super Clear both gloss and flat, it's great. The only thing is that it's expensive.

It's probably the alcohol in the Molotow causing the paint to soften.

I got the Cherokee he has up, it's not as nice as the wheels he does. The body is still pretty rough and the detail is a bit soft and will probably get buried under the amount of primer it's going to take to smooth it out.

I would use Evergreen plastic strips. 1mm or 1.5mm wide and .2mm or so thick looks close. Sand the point at the front into it then glue it down with something like Tamiya thin or Bondene. For the silver part I would glue a round rod about .3mm around the edge of the flat strip. This should get you in the ballpark at least, if you have actual measurements for the trim you could get it closer.

Check this out, these are "museum scale" Mechs that are meant for display. They're supposed to be around 6 inches tall. I'm going to pick up a couple myself. https://ironwindmetals.com/index.php/component/hikashop/product/battletech-dl-679

Just order them straight from Shapeways and they will print them and get them out to you in a couple weeks. Get the highest quality print available, it's worth the extra buck or two.

I can vouch for Rico's stuff, everything I've gotten from him has been high quality.