Fat Brian

The AMT 70 Chevelle is 1/25 so it's engine is going to look a bit small in the Monogram truck. I doubt anything from the Monogram Heavy Chevy Chevelle kit will fit the AMT engine but if you have the entire Heavy Chevy engine that's what I would use. There isn't a lot of 1/24 American engines on the aftermarket since most US kits are 1/25. If you want an LS the 2000/2001 Revell/Monogram Camaro has a good one and that kit is fairly cheap.

I used the engine from a Monogram NASCAR kit for a small block in my build of that kit. For big blocks, the Monogram 70 454 Chevelle has the most stock looking one. The Monogram 66 Malibu street machine and 39 Chevy both have modified versions of a 427 with an aftermarket clutch housing and either a tunnel ram intake or supercharger.

The AMT NASCAR kits have something pretty close.

I think the rear tires might be from an early (pre 2005 or so) AMT 70 Superbee pre street. I remember my first one in the late 90s had lettered tires.

This is the performance version 4.6 with the 4 valve heads. This one isn't supercharged, it just has very long intake runners.

I found something I can work with from White Zombie. Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire The wheels of his Mustang Exploding on the highway like a slug from a 45 True death 400 horsepower of maximum performance Piercing the night This is Black Sunshine

You could try 91% alcohol.

Wow, sign me up.

Painting is a lot more than a list of facts. It's knowing in the moment if you're too close or too far away based on how the paint looks and how to adjust that. It's knowing when another pass or two on a side or area will cause a run and how not to get yourself in that situation in the first place. Basically, all the "head knowledge" in the world will only get you so far. There is another layer of muscle memory and experience that can only be gained by doing the thing, often unsuccessfully in the beginning. Fortunately, Testor's paint is easy to strip. Invest in a mop bucket and a gallon of Catrol Super Clean.

Even better, it's a shame there isn't a full detail kit of a Pantera.

That's a strong choice.

It's not too bad, there's Mustang, Camaro, and Corvette kits for that year or at least the same body style as an '03. In European cars you've got the 360 Modena, 575 Maranello, Murcielago, and Gallardo. The R-34 Skyline was still available as well.

It's based on a real car, the builder used modern Mustang wheel openings like fender flares and moved the front wheels like a foot forward. It also have Corvette suspension front and rear. Here's a pic of the real car.

I've got something for wagons, pickups/utes, and birth year with a quick look at the stash.

I've got a personal theme going of always building a Mustang for the Cannonball build so if birth year gets chosen I'll build another early Fox body. I've got a build planned out that I was going to do anyway so I've already got all the parts ready to go, I just hadn't wanted to repeat a body style yet. Here's all my Cannonball Mustangs.

I'm 1981 so I've got the same issue. I thought it would be a good way to get a variety of entries though.

I think that would be allowed, I'm sure there are some people who might have to go further to find something.

It's that time again folks, the days are growing short and it's time to pick a theme for next year's Cannonball. I've got a few to get the ball rolling, please post you're ideas as well so we can pick a winner. Idea #1: Lemonball Like the 24 Hours of Lemons, build a budget race car to drive coast to coast. You can build a serious attempt at a race car or a ridiculous clunker, whatever strikes your fancy. Idea #2: Birth-year Ball Build a vehicle from the year you were born, or as close as you can get. Modify any way you want or not at all, just get it to the starting line.

Testors did a Model Master color called Jet Exhaust that was very metallic and dried flat.

I actually don't consider myself a collector. I intend to build or at least utilize parts from every kit I own. When I buy vintage kits I specifically seek out kits that aren't collector grade because I'm just going to open it and build it if I get a chance.

Well, I'm calling it done. I need to put a license plate on it and get some better shots but this is what I've got. I started with the Revell Mustang GTO kit. My objective was to de-racify it to the point that it would look street legal enough to make it across the country. So, I had to re-open the headlights and grille that had been closed off and add back some headlights and turn signal. While not fully street legal due to no side markers on the front it's going to fool most officers. Then I wrapped it in a coat of Tamiya light gunmetal with Mr. Super Clear semi gloss top coat. Now it was time to focus on making it into a Cannonball car. I ditched the 305 race motor and swapped in a 2.2 liter Cosworth 4 cylinder from a Monogram IMSA Mustang which also donated it's wheels. I added a turbo for a few more ponies in my Pony along with an intercooler and piping. The kit was a single seater with the passenger side completely removed and the exhaust exiting out the door. I added the door bars from an old NASCAR and seats from the Revell 90 drag Mustang. The extra fuel tank is from a Ramminator monster truck kit. The slicks had to go and were replaced with tires from a Fujimi County Countach up front and two of the smaller rear tires from two Monogram sprint cars. Finally, the rear window louvres to hid the roll cage and rear firewall are from a Revell snap Mustang and the mirrors are from a Tamiya race Skyline.

I've had the exact same thing happen with a Flintstone King Cobra body for the Revell Torino. It's too small in every direction, like it's 1/26 scale instead of 1/25.

If you're having to put an excessive amount of pressure on the parts to get the wheels to click "home" you might need to make sure any flash or mold seams are cleaned up on the wheels stubbs. Also you might need to slightly open the tip of the hole if it had flash around it.

This is my first figure, though it was a bit like armor considering there's no skin or face. I love the Battletech and Mechwarrior games and have a love of big stompy robots in general. I wanted to build a few shelf sitters for decoration in my model room and the game pieces are the most affordable though small figures available. This little guy is about an inch and quarter tall and is made of white metal. I used Tamiya and Vallejo paints.

I use cans so they're $12-$14 a can usually.