Fat Brian

You might try ebay too, the kit breakers usually have the decal sheets listed.

The R-34 Skyline and 350Z were available in 2001. Also there is the Revell 99 Mustang that covers the 99-04 bodystyle and the Revell F-150 Lighning pickup, this theme isn't limited to just cars.

That will make a neat build, it's going to be cool to see a lot of malaise Era hot rods.

I'd like to say I put a great deal of thought into it but honestly it just popped into my head while I was typing up the theme suggestion thread. I do agree that it makes a good theme in that there is one restriction but everything else is left up to the builder. Hopefully it will lead to a good turnout.

#20 - Ford GTO Mustang List of modifications: - Open front grille and remove molded in headlight covers, add headlights and make clear covers - Switch kit V8 engine for Cosworth 2.2 4cyl, add turbo and make piping, add intercooler to radiator duct - Re-route exhaust and fill holes in passenger side door - Re-work transmission cover to open passenger side of interior, add stock car door bars, extend firewalls to close up cabin area, add racing seats - Replace slicks with road tires - Add extra fuel tank for increased range - Add rear window louvres to hide gutted rear compartment

Yeah, those of us born in more recent years might not have some cars listed for our specific year but as long as that bodystyle was available in our year it should be fine. My entry is a 79 Pace car Mustang but the 81 that I need was largely the same so it's close enough.

The Supra looks great, I can't believe you got it together so quickly.

Check out armor modeling forums and YouTube for painting tires, those guys have it down. Basically, tires aren't really black. You'll need a dark gray and give it a lighter gray dry brushing and possibly some dirt effect around the treads.

This would require him to actually accomplish something and I don't think he has enough "information" for that yet. The next post is probably going to be about the specific gravity of various types of thinner or evaporation rates at different humidities and altitudes.

You can do that, the foil does get oxidation on it over time so the clear might keep it good and shiny. The only issue is the clear potentially yellowing, Testors clear is bad about that.

Thank you, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

I agree with what others have said. I built some models on commission years ago and you're lucky to break even on materials so you're basically doing it for free.

There's a lot of great Japanese stuff for 96, the Supra, Skyline, and NSX for starters. The Revell Super Stallion Mustang would also make a great Cannonball car.

Is this what some Firebirds have a narrow panel between the tops and others have a wider panel? I've noticed this but never knew what the difference was.

Revell has two 77-78 Firebird kits, one in 1/24 scale based on the Monogram 79 Camaro kit and one in 1/25 scale that if I remember correctly is based on a diecast kit. The 1/24 kit doesn't have all the decal stripes for a Bandit car but the 1/25 kit does. The 1/25 has big mounting notches in the body for the door handles and mirrors but is arguably overall a bit better detailed. On the 1/25 kit you also can't install part of the nose until the interior is in.

These are the parts from Iceman, they're just a generic IFS that can fit a bunch of applications. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-Dropped-Front-Suspension-Control-A-Arms-Spindle-Custom-Slammed-1-24-25-/392725886164?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

If it's based on one of the old Monogram kits yes, if it's the new Salvinos designed kit parts probably not. Some of the early Salvinos GM kits have a Dodge style torsion bar suspension.

Someone will put up a poll.

Setting solution can damage some aftermarket decals depending on how they were printed. Stuff from an Alps printer is usually okay but things printed on a normal printer and covered in clear to seal it can come apart. The white areas on the blue shield decals are where chunks of the color came off when I put setting solution on them.

I really like that, it looks very unsuspecting on a first glance.

It could be a filter or water separator for the air system. The air compressor is on the fan belt just behind where it mounts.

If you're using stuff like Duplicolor that dries really fast you can work pretty quick. I've gone from a bare body to a painted and cleared one in a day. I do two coats of Duplicolor white primer pretty close together and give them an hour to dry. Then I wet sand the primer with 1000 grit and set it aside to dry for another hour. Then it's two or three thin color coats, one about every 30 minutes. Then I let those dry for two or three hours then hit them with clear, either Mr Super Clear or Rustoleum Laquer. Finally I'll set that aside to cure for a week or so.

There isn't a direct stock replacement for that front suspension. You can use the front end from a Monogram GM NASCAR kit, it has fairly stock looking A arms and it would be easy to adjust the track width for the truck body. For a single piece suspension you can use the one from the Monogram 70 Chevelle or 64 GTO, or even the 70 Buick GSX. GM A arms pretty much look the same so the easiest set to get your hands on should work, especially on a modified vehicle.

Building semi trucks and armor really changed my build order. I used to paint almost all of the parts on the trees and then assemble them, now I'm much more likely to build large sub-assemblies and spray paint them then go back and pick out details.

Yeah, the advantage of the unmarked is it could be unmarked anything, especially with a DC or Virginia plate.