Fat Brian

Sometimes you can even flip the kit spindles if the wheel pin isnt directly in the center, or swap sides and flip them if they've got the tie rod mounts on them.

Yeah, I think parts interchangeability played a big part in Chevys being the more common swap.

It's best to think of Ford engines as families where a group of engines share common architecture and components. Basically in the span of time most modelers are interested in you've got the Windsor small blocks, 260, 289, 302, and 351, though the 351W does have a different block with a taller deck height. Then you've got the FE series, 331, 352, 360, 361, 390, 406, 410, 427, and 428. The 427 has its own unique block due to it having the biggest bore of all the FEs and in later years a redesigned oiling system. Then you get the 351 Cleveland that is a new design but had oiling problems and was later redesignated the 351 Modified and lead to the 400 Modified. Also, there's the 385 series which are the various 429 and 460 engines. There are also the Y-blocks and MEL motors for Mercury's and Lincolns.

Speaking as a Ford guy, Ford engines are... difficult to get a handle on. There are three 351 engines, two of which are kind of similar, one is completely different. There is also a 427, 428, and 429 that have three different blocks and two completely different engine architectures.

Speaking as a Ford guy, Ford engines are... difficult to get a handle on. There are three 351 engines, two of which are kind of similar, one is completely different. There is also a 427, 428, and 429 that have three different blocks and two completely different engine architectures.

Yes, the Autocar, White, Western Star, and Diamond Reo all share the same chassis and cab. The hoods, engines, and fuel tank layout are different for each kit and the Autocar kit doesn't have a sleeper.

No one is sure, they didn't permanently alter other trucks when the redid them. But of all of them the Blazer is the only one to never be later reissued in its stock form.

Revell/Blitz still owns the tooling. The last time it was run was in the early 2000s as the Mad Mudder. There's some speculation as to whether they still have the stock top since they haven't run a stock Blazer since the Mad Mudder conversion in the 80s.

I robbed the rear suspension from the Revell snap Peterbilt. It's a fairly modern design without obviously being an in-house system like a Kenworth 8 bagger. The easy way is to cut the whole rear end of the frame off and graft it onto whatever frame you're using. I did it the hard way, cutting each mounting point out of the Revell frame and then trimming the thickness of the frame out of each mounting surface so I could mount it onto a different frame.

Those tires are so disappointing, they're the perfect sizes for so many things but look absolutely terrible.

One set that comes to mind was MPCs attempt at BF Goodrich Radial TAs. They're in MPC and AMT versions of the 88 Mustang GT, MPC Fieros, and probably MPC Camaros and Firebirds from the mid 80s as well.

Just wait, numbers matching model kits will be all the rage on the concours collector circuit.

Krylon Fusion is tough stuff to work with. It etched a plastic body I used it on pretty severely. Usually when something wrinkles like that it's a paint incompatibility. The easiest thing to do is likely going to be find the color you want in a less volatile paint and start over again. Otherwise you can test whether it's better to recoat when the paint is not as set up.

I use Duplicolor white primer from the auto parts store. It goes on thin out of the can so it doesn't bury the molded in detail and it's strips easily in Super Clean. This way you can paint over it with anything and be able to remove it if you mess up. I typically only primer the body and hood, things that get painted flat colors don't usually need it unless you're cover red plastic with white or something. I wet sand the last primer coat with 2000 grip paper. I wasn't a believer but it really does make a huge difference in the finished paint job. Personally, I clear coat everything, it just makes it look better to me. I really like Mr. Super Clear gloss but it's pricey so I can't always use it. Rustoleum clear lacquer with the green oval on the can works well over paint that can tolerate it.

I don't see a date on the bottom of the box but the print inside the body is 3/27/2019.

Possibly the nicest Cordoba left in existence.

I'll look and see, I'm sure there's the printing on the inside of the body.

I was thinking more along the lines of the Moebius method of tooling many variations and being able to mix and match different releases.

There are many of us who would build modern trucks but the kit makers either don't make them or when they do they make the wrong version. Truck kits need a 4x4 option and a single cab/long bed version for light commercial builders.

Ok, I'll have to look. I could swear I've bought this but I don't remember seeing it recently .

Yeah, the Popper Pinto only has blackwalls in it. The version of the 77 I have is very recent, I think just before the Popper came out.

Another thing that will help in the future is wet sanding the final primer coat. I didn't believe it so I never did it and always had bad results when using primer so I never used it. Once I tried it it was a night and day difference. Wet sand it with like 2000 grit, it still needs some "tooth" to do its job but smoothing that final coat out makes a world of difference.

You're right, there's just a severe lack of good early 80s tires. That's what prompted my question to begin with, I knew the tire itself wasn't correct but I wanted the lettering to be feasible for the period. These tires are at least inoffensive compared to the snow tire looking junk we had previously.

Thanks Casey, I didn't pick this up but now it looks like I need to.

I saw that build a lot when I was looking for pictures. I could only hope mine would turn out that nice.