Fat Brian

I tend to do sub-assemblies as well. A plastic to plastic joint is stronger in the long run and it allows for cleaning up mold lines before painting. I also use the clippy sticks like the previous poster, trying to grip the part in a place that won't be seen even if I have to add a little sprue peg to hold on to. Then I go back with a brush and detail paint things. As for what color to paint things I look at reference pictures online. Kit instructions are getting better but with so many real world examples at the touch of a finger I prefer to confirm for myself. I paint the body last, once all the chassis and interior has been completed and is ready to drop in. I want to handle the body as little as possible once it's painted. Ideally I can just drop the windows in then slide the whole interior and chassis in one attempt since hopefully I've resolved all the fit issues prior to painting.

Another could be that they were converted to run on compressed natural gas. Depending on the type and design of the tank rack it can look very sleeper-like at a distance.

Now the color code is red and blue for the air lines and green for the electric wire. This hasn't always been the standard and will greatly depend on the time period you're replicating. Typically the lines come out from under the cab or sleeper between the frame rails and are either hung on the back of said cab or sleeper, or the headache rack if installed, or possibly on a "hose-tenna" or "pogo stick" especially if the frame is on the longer side. Hoses mounted to rear of sleeper Hoses on a pogo stick

The best option depends on your usage. I get my internet through Time Warner/Spectrum for right at $100 a month. I could switch to Verizon which is also my cellphone provider and save but even with an "unlimited" plan they still have a data cap before they throttle your connection. Myself, my wife, and mother in law all stream most of our TV so we'd hit the cap every month so paying a bit more gets us a truly unlimited connection.

Yep, I did some reading last night and these cars weren't very popular due in part to the monochrome look. Dealers would dress them up with trim rings and sometimes even replace the bumpers with chrome ones to give the car a more traditional look.

That axle is really nice, a very welcome part.

Very cool, now off to buy two more.

I went through the stash and pulled out all my Olds kits with Rally wheels. First us the Revell 72 442 convertible, second is the Revell 72 Cutlass pace car, and third is the Revell 83 Hurst Olds.

Joseph does say his wheels are 15x7 so they are the bigger wheel.

The Revell 83 Olds kits have those wheels but they look like they have trim rings to me.

Fireball makes these:

It's not the way I would or am planning on doing it but after looking at it there are worse ways.

I'm wanting to do this too. The cheapest way is to borrow the top of the sleeper from the snap kit but I compared the snap top to the RoG sleeper and the top is about an eighth of an inch too narrow to fit so it will take some work to make it fit. The early version of the RoG T600 also has an Aerodyne sleeper but it's a very expensive and hard to find kit.

Shop-Vacs are wet/dry, they can't pass potentially water containing air through the electric motor. The motor does have a separate fan for cooling but it's not using air from the vacuum side for that. Here's a picture of a Shop-Vac motor, you can see the motor cooling fan on top and the on the bottom is the enclosed vacuum impeller.

The original big box version didn't have them, I'm not sure about the small box release from a few years ago.

I don't think that fan would be ok. If the motor is in the air stream it needs to be intrinsically safe because paint fumes are usually flammable. You can use a squirrel-cage fan because the motor is separated from the air being moved. I've also seen recently someone using a Shop-Vac. The motor is out of the air stream so it's safe, you just need one where the exhaust side allows you to connect a tube that you can vent safely.

Yep, I was going to use one of the new bodies with the old Cobra parts but now I won't have to.

According to their site it is.

Take a close look at the 81 Camaro. It's an old Revell snap kit, not the Monogram 1/24 kit we've been getting lately.

I like some early Lady Gaga, Paparazzi is a great song. Then there's Mika.

Shapeways is in the US, every order I've done with them is a $10 flat shipping fee for a box that would hold 3 AMT kits. If you follow the link above, then hit the three lines in the upper left then on the next page you'll get a magnifying glass in the upper right to search. If you have an account you can save creators stores that have things you like so you can find them easier when you're ready to buy.

The 71 Mustang, 70 Torino Cobra, and the Pulldozer Blazer off the top of my head. I think their was something else but I can't remember at the moment.

Someone already does a Dana 44 in 1/24 scale but something beefier like a Dana 60 or 80 would be great. https://www.shapeways.com/product/G95CPQBSZ/1-24-dana44highpinion-2sets

Revell is going to hurt me for the foreseeable future. I need a couple 32s for the intakes, a Roadrunner, Olds, and hopefully just the decals from the 85 Camaro. Plus a bunch of other stuff they've announced for later.

Yes, I'd love to have it.