Fat Brian

You'll need to use the front bumper from the pickup too, there's not one in this version of the Blazer.

That looks great. And it doesn't have to be perfect because it's going to be underneath the trucks anyway. There's just nothing even remotely similar out there.

Ok, I finally got back to work today and pulled some measurements from a 5 ton truck. The case is a little different than the one I posted the pic of, there are several different Rockwell cases. The truck I measured today has a Rockwell T138 transfer case. It's 24" from tip to tip diagonally so around 20 inches tall in this orientation. It's 12" across the middle of the case but you can see its kind if an odd shape. The main part if the case is 15" thick with the bolted on outputs raised up about half an inch. Here us a link to more pics.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/T138-ROCKWELL-TRANSFER-CASE-TC138-5-TON-TRUCK-/262854352111?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Yes, you do have to provide your own headlights.

That's great that you found it, I had even tried a reverse image search and didn't get anything. If I were going to build something along these lines I would start with the Foose Cadillac. Paint it a satin color, find some cool pinstripes, get a set of 20" steelies, drop in the Caddy engine from the Revell 49 Mercury. The only issue is the interior, it's too modern for this style.

I'm down for at least one of these, I like this little kit. You can also get a 3d printed version of the quad headlight grille on Shapeways, it's a nice piece. https://www.shapeways.com/product/TL5QRQ8J2/1-25-scale-dodge-ram-50-grille

The kit builds as a stock Fairlane 427, it doesn't have any real race options. These cars were intended for drag racing, kind of a slightly less extreme version of a Thunderbolt. Depending exactly on the period and class you might be able to get away with just the decals as a race car but you'll most likely need a roll bar at the bare minimum. The Fairlane wasn't really used in NASCAR, they ran the Galaxie in 66.

Very cool, I just got two of these in the mail Thursday, I might need a few more.

I understand, I get myself twisted up sometimes too.

I don't think so, the Revell 67 Chevelle came out in the late 80s and the Revell 66 GTO didn't come out until the early 2000s.

Ok, that looks like beast made from a few different cars. The big bullet bumperettes are from a 57 Cadillac but the hood and fenders along either the windshield look like an earlier 50s Caddy. The rear fenders don't look like anything I could find offhand, they're either completely custom or something really odd. 57 Cadillac 53 Cadillac

He could source the engine parts from the Revell 68 Firebird. The lower rocker trim shouldn't be too hard to add with a strip of Evergreen. I'm just trying to find any way for him to not have to subject himself to trying to build the 67. That's one of the few kits I've bought and after opening it noped out and gotten rid of.

This is the packaging in my area. The primer comes in bigger cans with a gray label and a cap that corresponds to the primer color.

I don't have a 67 GTO to do the comparison but take the two kits and see if the 67 rear bumper will fit on the 66 body. If the 67 bumper fits the 66 body then you can cut from the top corner of the notch the bumper sits in vertically straight through the trunk lid on both bodies. Basically, switch the tail light panel and the ends of the rear fenders from the 67 body onto the 66 body and use the 67 rear bumper. Then just build the 66 kit as normal. You might have to rescribe the trunk panel lines on the ends if they don't line up correctly but that's not too bad.

Duplicolor is usually at your local autoparts store. I use their white primer under everything, it goes on in thin layers so you're less likely to obscure surface details. It also strips easily with Super Clean where the actual paint does not, this way you can always get back to bare plastic if things go poorly. Just toss it in the purple pond and the paint comes off in sheets.

Yeah, I honestly try not to think about stuff like this. I have enough real life problems without causing myself undue existential dread.

That is true. I mean, how many subatomic particles are we actually trying to measure at any one time. Faking something like that wouldn't take much.

I think quantum entanglement puts that theory to rest. Linking particles and having the movement of one affect another seems like it would eat a ton of memory in a simulation.

For anyone who wants a quick change style rear end check out this product. It's designed for the Revell 29/30 kits but can probably be made to work on the 32 pretty easily. The designer, Spex, a member here, might also be persuaded to make a 32 specific version.

No problem.

That grille, the base model non-GT version isn't in either of the Revell kits. The Cobra has the Cobra specific grille and the GT has the hide-away headlight grille. The tail lights will be the ones from the Cobra, the squares not the honeycomb panel. I would probably start with the Cobra kit when it gets reissued later this year or most likely next, it has the tail lights and a hood closer to what you need.

The red Supra dash is pretty close. You'd have to sand about 1mm off each end and probably about 2mm from the center of the windshield edge of the dash top, the 86 windshield has a little less curvature than the Supra dash. It's totally do-able and looks pretty close. And the Supra kits are cheap so buying one for just the dash doesn't feel do bad.

I have to third Duplicolor paint, I would also use Duplicolor black primer since the body is probably going to be molded in white. This way your total paint depth can be thinner. Surface prep is also going to be huge, cleaning up mold lines, fixing sink holes, just getting everything nice a smooth. Another thing that helps me tremendously is wet sanding the final primer coat, I wasn't a believer until I did it and the results are undeniable. Finally, getting the paint done is only half the battle, now you have to finish assembling the kit without ruining the paint. I would set the painted body aside for at least a couple weeks to let the paint cure fully to reduce the chance of fingerprints. I have a huge problem with my skin oils seeming to reactivate the paint if I handle it too much so gloves might be in order.

Unfortunately both of mine have the same dash as yours.

I have two Aoshima 86s, let me see if either of them have a lhd dash.