Fat Brian

It's a surprisingly tough fit considering how common this engine is in the 1:1 cars. I ended up cutting the head off and turning it around to get the intake on the left side where there was more room. The exhaust manifold was also hard because of the extended footwell on the right side. If I had been building a normal track car I would have turned the exhaust out right in front of the footwell and continued it like the stock parts but I wanted to do something else.

I agree, I might look around and see if I can find some small gauge decals. That's one area that Round2 is really lagging behind in that seems like it would be an easy win.

Just a little thing I threw together between other builds. It has an OHV conversion based on a Rajo head and a Chicago auxiliary transmission. The wheels are from the AMT 34 pickup and the tires are from the most recent 49 Ford kit.

I'm calling this one done. I just need to put on the tag and figure out some cargo netting but that may be a minute. This is the Tamiya Lotus 7 with the Cosworth 2.0 yb engine from a Monogram IMSA Mustang. The wheels are from Fujimi and the tires are American Satco and MRC. The cooler and generator are from a diecast diorama set and the bags are military stowage.

There are quite a few on Shapeways. Most are in model railroad scales but most creators will rescale things if you ask them.

It doesn't matter to me whether it's a whole body or panels, especially if it means getting both front end styles.

I'm down for one, though I prefer the bug-eye version. It would be great to also have a set of wide 5 wheels.

Here the last release, it's gotten a bit pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254001878931?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eSp0Ah0eTMy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=CNi_i6G9QKy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That kit has been recently reissued so it's not nearly as hard to find as it used to be.

This one is from the new Revell Land Rover. It had me searching the box trying to see if the exhaust was actually different for left and right hand drive versions.

That looks more like the little trailer that a body that was on a truck chassis. It doesn't look too hard to make out of some quarter round, sheet stock, and some fine strips for detailing.

The problem with the horn instructions is that it shows to put it where the wiper motor piece should go. The horn is big enough that in that location it can cause the hood and/or air cleaner to not fit correctly.

By the system posted above the 56 and the Big Game truck should be a 3 if the rating was based solely on parts count. Since they're both a 4 there has to be more to it. The Monogram Pulldozer Blazer was an American scale 2 and the new reissue will be a 4 as well.

Having not actually built the 56 myself my guess would be the 56 might be considered more difficult because it lacks the positive mounting points and overall fit of a newer kit. The Big Game pickup is also a level 4 ex-Monogram kit with low parts count that has some vagueness in how the body mounts to the frame.

The jewelry section of the craft store will have tons of things that can be repurposed for modeling. Various gauges of aluminum wire can be had in bare or red, blue, and gold anodized for all manner of things. Also, you can order wrapped wires for plug wires and such. Brass rod is also helpful for hinges. Tiny hexagon beads can be bolt heads. I also like to have a well stocked bag of Evergreen and Plastruct plastic stock. Square, round, rectangle, tubes, angle, C channel, hexagonal rod, sheet stock, it all has a use and it's easier to figure out how to scratch build something when you have pieces to work with. Here's what you can do with a pile of Evergreen and a handful of watch parts.

This is a kit I really wish I gotten when it was a out a few years ago. The glass doesn't look ruined like from regular red tube glue.

This is pretty tempting, I have the Tamiya 60s Mini but this would be cool for a modern version.

It has a custom dash that looks like would make it very easy to move the steering wheel over.

That glue is supposed to be water based so I would run it under warm water and used a toothpick or something equally soft to try to pick it off. For applying the glue in the future try a paint brush. I sit my glass in place and then dab glue around the edges with a paint brush.

They're different parts. The 150 kit has a coil sping front end, the 250 kit will have leaf springs. The axles are also very different.

The worst part about the original 69 grille that the 68 still has is the way oversize headlight surrounds.

If you don't want it to tilt I imagine you could use Evergreen strips to make vertical posts from the frame to the bottom of the interior. The rear of the cab should have rests where it sits on the frame.

I have a Hasegawa box like that for their then new 250 Testa Rossa. I interesting idea but I think the plastic to paper glue joint proved to be a weak point.

While the majority here do know what to expect from a kit there has been an influx of new builders in the past two years. They've only bought a handful of kits and don't understand that there can be 50 years of difference in technology between two kits from the same manufacturer on the same shelf at the same price point. The AMT tin box Daytona has been a huge disappointment to many newer builders who see the fancy packaging and don't know that tooling has been through the wringer.

The Supra has different tires that are wider in the rear. The Mitsubishi GTO has something close to what you posted.