Fat Brian

Yes, it has the 250hp non-turbo Cummins. It's technically a bit too modern for a 30s vehicle but you can always say it was repowered. The 30s is right in the transition period from big gasoline truck engines to diesel so its possible this was intended to have something like a Hercules straight six gasoline engine. These were big flat head sixes.

I'm going to push back on this just a bit. I cruise a lot of the modeling sub-Reddits and see so much frustration from newer model builders who don't know that some of the kits you guys are putting out vary in age considerably. I've seen several folks swear off AMT kits entirely after getting the tin box Daytona for Christmas and it being, well... what it is. This was a chance to put the AMT name on a new tooling that could have been great but it's just copying 50 year old design philosophy. It didn't have to be groundbreaking, even on par with the late 90s and early 2000s kits would have been exceptional. It just seems like a missed opportunity to make something the best it could be.

If you want a single rear axle I'd either use the Freightliner cabover with the red and white truck on the box, it has both the single and dual drive suspensions, or one of the Ford C600 kits.

If you didn't want to fab up the angle drive setup you could probably accomplish the same thing vertically since you don't have to worry about a bus floor. Set the rear axle with the pinion facing front like normal then set the engine facing backwards behind the axle. Now comes comes the fab stuff, you'll need to build some kind of transmission where the output shaft is higher than the rear axle differential, then a short driveshaft to a drop box that bolts to the front of the rear axle. Something like this but with the input and output on the same side, driveshaft comes in the top and the bottom is bolted to the rear axle where the pinion shaft comes out.

I agree, there's plenty of 3d printed Coyote motors out there if someone wants to spice up the Bronco. Though it is a shame we're not getting a modern small turbo motor for transplanting into smaller sports cars.

Some rear engine buses use this rather ingenious method of getting the power to the wheels. It will be a good bit of scratchbuilding but would be interesting.

Thank you for both clarifications, I'm wanting to build an F250 4x4 with the 65 box body truck and I did notice a lot of the early bed trucks but didn't know the reason. I'm waiting on a bumper from Olson Brothers and some wheels and tires from Scenes Unlimited to get started. I guess I also need to hog out the front wheel arches. I'll round up some front leaf springs too.

Considering the Roadrunner/GTX was tooled over 30 years ago that's faint praise. If they're doing a new kit from the ground up I can't understand they you wouldn't do it to modern standards.

The Dodge guys got the grail for the time being, let's start the 69 AMX hype train.

They're starting to lose me with promo style chassis. I'll save the rant for confirmation but those aren't words I want to hear about a newly tooled kit.

I'm doing research for an upcoming project and I've noticed that the front fenders on some 65 Ford 4x4 trucks are different than others. Some have the same fenders as the 2wd trucks and others seem cut out wider, with the innermost part of the fender inside the body crease removed. It seems too common to be a "field modification", we're extra clearance fenders an option for 4x4 trucks? There doesn't seem to be any correlation to a model, I've seen F100s with the wide fenders and F250s with the standard ones. This is an F100 4x4 with the wider wheel opening This is an F250 Camper Special with the standard fenders

The Coronet looks like new parts, the body has a ridge for the hood to sit on that none of the none of the current AMT Roadrunner/GTX/Superbee kits have and the inner fender parts look different as well. It's also great to see the Bronco while it's still a new model.

The Revell T600 is better but still not 100% correct. The main issue is the rear cab corners are still the early rounded ones instead of the later angled ones but once the stacks are on its harder to see. If you get the early version it also has the first generation Aerodyne sleeper top. Here's one on ebay, they're pretty pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Revell-1-25-Kenworth-T-600-Aerodyne-Conventional-sealed-/284802633463?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I don't have any local independent hobby shops so for me Hobby Lobby and Michael's are the go to's for current run kits followed by a Hobbytown that's a few towns over. Sometimes you can find a deal on Amazon, Tower Hobbies and Model Roundup run free shipping deals which can be big savings on larger orders. I do most of my model shopping on ebay, you can do a search for things and switch to sold items to get an idea of the market before buying. You can also look for shows or swap meets near you.

When I use liquid glues I have a dedicated paint brush that's about the size of the brush in a nail polish bottle. It holds a bit more than the Tamiya bottle brush but not so much that you can control the amount and get a lot of runs.

That part of the truck looks like it could be had with a few options. This pic shows what looks like an astray, you can see the little dips around the rim, then the second pic shows that spot with a radio.

Yeah, it's either straight drop C or CFCGBE.

It's one of those albums where every song is good and most could have been singles.

I wasn't a particularly angsty teen but Soundgarden's Superunknown dropped at just the right time to hit me full force. I was 13 in 1994 and this was the best thing I'd ever heard in my life, and honestly it's still up there.

Some Googling said it might be hazardous materials like contaminated soil that is getting transported a long distance. Either way a very odd combination with some very specific application.

I tend to do sub-assemblies as well. A plastic to plastic joint is stronger in the long run and it allows for cleaning up mold lines before painting. I also use the clippy sticks like the previous poster, trying to grip the part in a place that won't be seen even if I have to add a little sprue peg to hold on to. Then I go back with a brush and detail paint things. As for what color to paint things I look at reference pictures online. Kit instructions are getting better but with so many real world examples at the touch of a finger I prefer to confirm for myself. I paint the body last, once all the chassis and interior has been completed and is ready to drop in. I want to handle the body as little as possible once it's painted. Ideally I can just drop the windows in then slide the whole interior and chassis in one attempt since hopefully I've resolved all the fit issues prior to painting.

Another could be that they were converted to run on compressed natural gas. Depending on the type and design of the tank rack it can look very sleeper-like at a distance.

Now the color code is red and blue for the air lines and green for the electric wire. This hasn't always been the standard and will greatly depend on the time period you're replicating. Typically the lines come out from under the cab or sleeper between the frame rails and are either hung on the back of said cab or sleeper, or the headache rack if installed, or possibly on a "hose-tenna" or "pogo stick" especially if the frame is on the longer side. Hoses mounted to rear of sleeper Hoses on a pogo stick

The best option depends on your usage. I get my internet through Time Warner/Spectrum for right at $100 a month. I could switch to Verizon which is also my cellphone provider and save but even with an "unlimited" plan they still have a data cap before they throttle your connection. Myself, my wife, and mother in law all stream most of our TV so we'd hit the cap every month so paying a bit more gets us a truly unlimited connection.

Yep, I did some reading last night and these cars weren't very popular due in part to the monochrome look. Dealers would dress them up with trim rings and sometimes even replace the bumpers with chrome ones to give the car a more traditional look.