Fat Brian

Same guts as the 72 convertible, just a fast back body.

You're very welcome, built one a couple years ago. It's a great kit but I didn't think I'd ever stop pulling parts out of the box.

Get the Molotow refill. It's expensive but it's the best chrome you can brush on.

It's a round red lens.

Ok, that's a lot of stuff. I just put this chassis in an MPC 79 pace car kit and had to add the stuff to fill in the rear area.

This is pretty cool, is he doing the interior pan too?

This kit should have the 8v-71 Detroit.

The Rat Roaster looks like a car designed for TV by a guy with a mullet. The improvements are very nice, if it still has the stacks with the air cleaners on top I'll get a couple more.

If I was better at painting I would do that, I have a local track to sell them. Right now I'm trying to get rid if some stuff for a show coming up in May. My model room is about at capacity and I need to quickly make some room.

That's what I'm doing now, seeing how much of each kit is left. I'm going to put them in gallon freezer bags and write anything missing on the bag.

I've got quite a few leftover bodies from chassis donor kits and I'm thinking about selling them for slot cars. Do slot cars guys want the interiors too? I don't have all of them since that was part of the chassis swap but if I do have the interior would they even want or need it?

Revell coming for my wallet this year.

I'm glad I didn't pay ebay prices for a Monogram GTO now. The 39 Chevy might have the supercharger parts to go on the 66 Chevelle too, the engines in those kits are pretty similar.

We had some pretty horrible cars while we were young and broke but probably the worst was a 91 Olds Cutlass with a Quad4 engine. The valvetrain noise was incredible, like a hundred squirrels in tap shoes on a tin roof. You had turn it off in the drive thru to be able to hold a conversation.

I thought about that too, or soft aluminum jewelry wire. I still need to find someone to make the decals so I haven't gotten serious about figuring out the headers yet.

Huh, that would a be a unique subject...

It's a Hyundai Tiburon with aftermarket Lambo door hinges and somekind of Star Wars paint job.

There will be a pebbly texture to areas that need more clear. Once everything has a nice smoothe surface again you're done. Work in light coats because it's easy to put too much on and get a run since it is a little more difficult to gage the depth of the layer since it's clear.

I need the exact same thing for a build I'm planning. My plan so far is to build a jig out of wood that will give me consistent bends. I was planning on using thin stainless steel tubing with a brass rod inserted where the bend is to keep it from collapsing but Molotow looks good enough that I might stick with plastic for ease of assembly.

First, test a scrap piece of decal film with the clear you want to use. I had a body ruined when I tried to clear over decals and the clear beaded up on the decals like water on a freshly waxed car. Second, once you know you're decals and clear play nice together clear everything. Some clear coats, specifically Testors but others as well, can color shift a bit over time. If you only clear some parts there's a possibility that in a year or two the cleared and not cleared parts will be a slightly different color.

She was local to me first a while and this was the first thing I heard her do on local radio.

The Celica Supra is nice, I've got the Tamiya kit but this one will have an engine without a ton if extra work. I also wonder which sleeper is in the 359 kit? It would be cool if they found the old mail in sleeper.

The first IMSA Mustang and the GTP kit should be fine, but yeah, I bet this early body doesn't exist anymore for the SCCA car. These are ones I don't think changed.

I built this one for my Cannonball car last year, it built into a good looking model.

Yeah, I'm wondering about the status of the early 80s IMSA Mustang and Mustang GTO kits. Those were never run but a few times so they were likely still stateside if they still exist at all.