MAGNUM4342

CAN I GET AN AMEN!!

Alclad, while great for things apart from the model like wheels, bumpers and engine parts, is not a real good way to chrome fine trim details. At least not for me. With Alclad I shoot a wet coat of gloss black and within minutes (before the black gasses out) I shoot the Alclad. Applying the Alclad over a base that is still tacky gives the chrome more bite and overall hardness when cured. Again this works fine on a wheel but in a small fine area like trim, which at times has two to three defining lines to it, you can easily run into obliterated detail because it has filled in with paint.

there's more than one school of thought on the Testors paints. Most of the standard line of spray paints take a verbal beating on a fairly regular basis. I've never heard too much against their bottle paints. The Model Master line from Testors is the preferred paints for a lot of folks. Unless you plan to do a lot of painting on a daily basis I wouldn't buy that much testors paint at one time, as you'll find that once opened the standard formulation of testors paints dries out quickly. I find it's better to keep a smaller stash of regular use colors on hand and buy others on an as you need them basis. But that's just me.

An airbrush and good compressor will save you a lot in the long run. Just make sure to keep that airbrush clean and it will serve you well for some time.

Pretty much. By the way, welcome to the board Coshocton. Let me check my stash tonight, I might have a blower setup for you. What engine are you using? I need to know who made your kit so I can get one together that's going to work for you.

B) That's clean assembly for a four hour build.

My thoughts and prayers as well.

Okay, then getting a blower kit from an aftermarket source or the wanted section here is job one. Make sure of course that it's suited to whatever engine you are using. Most of the late sixties and seventies style kits came with a scoring on the underside to cut it out for a hood scoop, blower, twin air filters, what have you. Is yours and AMT or Jo-Han? At any rate if it doesn't have a cutout you can mock up the built engine in the assembled chassis. Then dry set the body over it and get your measurements to cut open the hood. I always cut a little small, then sand outward from there with emery boards and constant test fittings. That way you wind up with a hood cutout that clears your blower setup realistically, depending wether you want it to appear hinged or lift-off style. P.S. Depending on the engine choice I may have a blower setup for you. I personally never use them preferring my MOPAR Rompers to be sleeper style.

As far as white over grey primer. I think it gives it a better "ghostly" look to the paint job. If it was overly humid I would say that caused the wet coat to solvent pop like that. You can purple pond it, or if the problem is located in just these areas you can wet sand it down and feather it in then re-coat. I've found when it gets humid around here that i'm better off with several mist coats and a good wet sand and buff than trying to lay that final glassy wet coat. For some reason the moisture in the air causes the paint to go anywhere from badly fisheyed to what you have there. Anyway that's been my experience. Sadly during the summer here I get very few days that aren't humid.

I talked to some folks earlier this evening at dinner. She said 90% of lost international packages are because of poorly written customs forms. If you write clearly on the forms there shouldn't be any issue. I'm taking along my mother. I can't write to save my life!

You still have a customs form. That's a type of tracking. Beyond that, I've looked at his feedback page and see no reason to question his integrity. I'm sure he'll pay, and if he says it didn't get there odds are it didn't. At any rate, now that I've got more proper shipping worked out i'm relatively sure it will work out.

Yes, the online service is what I was using if I didn't make that clear. Whatever I did the lowest it would give me was $56 priority in 4 to 6 days. The last time I did it first class international came up and it was 30 less at $26. I called my local and the woman said it sounded in the range of a $24 dollar charge to her so i'm rolling the dice. It's a sad day when you have to bet your farm, your hat and your housecat to mail something.

after re-doing it a fifth time, I got a price of $26. I sent him a message and told him if it was more than that i'd eat the difference and if it was less i'd refund the difference. He responded saying he was fine with that and would pay later tonight. Now I just have to keep my fingers crossed that I don't have to eat a twenty dollar or more shipping charge.

And that's exactly what i'm trying to do, keep it affordable. I would never pay $56 in shipping for $32 in kits nor would I ask someone else to. I went back to the usps site and finally got it to work with standard intnl. shipping and it came out to $26. Hopefully he will see the effort I've gone to. He probably thinks at this point I was trying to rip him off.

The only option it will give me is priority. I really don't know what to do other than wait. I sent him a message stating that if he wanted to back out no negative feedback would be sent, but even though everyone claims "great communication" I have yet to hear back.

What would you guesstimate the weight of two 1/25th scale kits to be? He has had ship outs as recently as yesterday all showing $9 for the shipping.

Have any of you shipped a pair of 1/25th kits to New Zealand? I just sold two kits to a guy and the shipping calculator keeps spitting out $53 for shipping. I checked the guy's feedback and he's bought a lot of kits and all of them shipped between $7 and $10. Either the calculator is messed up or a lot of folks have lost money shipping to him. Help!

If they don't I will.

Me three. Of course I've always been a bit of a night owl anyway.

Certainly, but there are still some people who don't know they have a website and logic dictates that would be the place to ask.

Did you ask over at the SAE site?

Welcome right back from West Virginia! Originally a buckeye here.

It happens to all of us. We all have kits on our shelves that turned out to suck. Use it to practice your skills on.

I agree the SRT8 is a nice kit...just wish it was named Polara...or anything else.

"Junk", "Not a real MAGNUM", "ripoff". I only say not a real MAGNUM because it's a wagon and never should have been given that name.