MAGNUM4342

I have a '64 Dodge 330 that also has the slant 6. It has a red car on the box.

Nooooooo, he's upset that someone has ripped off his original sculpt.

Love the color and the soft drink! IIRC, MOPAR made a series of street legal HEMI Darts labeled "Baby Grands".

Translation: I have decent paved roads where I live and take regular care of my ride. Good on ya!

Not exactly so Harry. If you live in say Georgia or parts of West Virginia (ahem) you'll fing an orange tinge to the undercarriage from the red clay. Parts of alabama will give you a dark grey while Florida gives you a half sandblasted lighter grey. It's all about where you are. It is true though, that the whole underside will end up monochromatic.

Nicely done! By the way, the Dragula was designed by Tom Daniel NOT George Barris. Just a little trivia for you.

Although it's not very trustworthy, Google shows several '69's with the six pack. Either way it's his car and hey, could be a retrofit. It's a good looking build so far. Dan- I find that a mechanical pencil works great for painting tire lettering. It gives you great control and pinpoint accuracy.

Gap filling glues can be found under the Testors brand as well as Tenax 7R, and Plastruct. The hottest of them being Tenax. It kicks quick and hard but can work against you on thin plastic sheet and small parts. Testors and Plastruct brand cure at about the same rate but the Plastruct will give the tougher bond.

To Anne and all the folks reading these tool questions. If you are fortunate enough to have a Harbor Frieght nearby, go there for things like these files. You'll save a ton of money for the same things found online. Most small hobby tools can be found at less than $5 a pop.

KEEP THIS IN MIND! Clear styrenes are more brittle than standard styrene. If this is an old (vintage) body, DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT ATTEMPTING IT. What you will end up with is a body filled with spiderweb cracks and broken chunklets. Trust me on this. A friend asked me to polish an original Pety Charger. If the body is not too bad you are better of with a coat or two of Future. Not gospel, not law, just my experience so my 2c.

What everyone else said X2! Just another mind blowing day at the Teresi stables! 5 outta 5.

I thought I had gotten a vintage 1977 Monaco kit, and I did...sort of. At some point the seller had gotten it mixed up with a Roadrunner kit, so I had a Monaco kit with a '75 Roadrunner body! He's sending the Monaco body out first thing Monday with postage to return the RR body. I thought that was pretty cool of him.

Randy...is there someone you should be talking to?

Amen brother!

Let's not get into a peeing match boys. Bottom line is you won't find a licensed resin piece anywhere.

Nice on. We had a 1978 New Yorker almost the same color. It had an oil leak from the word go they never could find. My dad called up old Iacocca himself and when the dust settled, we had gotten back every dime spent. Dad went across the street and bought a Old's 98 with one of the early diesel engines. I always hated that Olds!

Well done and kept out of the sun. For a twenty year old build the red STP paint has held up quite well. Kudos!

Nice car, nicer printing...not so nice a price for me...

"We ain't wrong...we ain't sorry...and it's probly gonna happen again!"

This time the "J"'s have it. John and Joseph are both right and I can't state it any better. Getting ready to unviel my own parts company I have had to wrestle all month with three things. 1. Do I open a mainstream webpage...or do I operate like most of the aftermarketers these days and go low profile using a Fotki or Photobucket page to showcase my wares? 2. What do I do about certain parts that are being produced elsewhere as well? Do I sally forth and cast these hubcaps I have on hand, knowing full well they have been recast by another company and I risk persecution at the hands of those that think I copied thiers? 3. Articles like this popping up. Steve you have every right to be upset and voice that, but there was also an article in Q&A started just this week about the legalities of casting parts. The more articles like this that show up on google and bing, the more attention is called to the 'cottages' that provide these pieces. The more attention is called the more Chrysler, GM, Ford etc. will sit up and take notice. Eventually the landslide will bring you down and the aftermarket companies will suffer. This is why Slixx stopped doing NASCAR decals a few years back. As soon as NASCAR's licensing department got wind, the fees generated by the get-out-of-jail-free card were too exhorbitant and the company could no longer sustain production. Steve I sympathise, I really do. I have spent the last few days fleshing out an all new 1970 Charger front bumper and filler set that I think is as good or better than anyone elses. The moment I sell the first one, I am in danger of not only being spotted by Dodge corporation, but of being ripped off in a copycast or design, by some jackamo out there with a twenty dollar Hobby Lobby casting kit. It's the nature of the beast. Engrave your name and date of creation? They'll fill it in. Photograph, date and document the design? Fodder for Chrysler's lawyers. It's a half win/half win situation at best and we have to take and suffer with whatever we can make out of it until the market for our version has dried up. When someone suggested Demon parts in my other thread, I let it slide by because I knew there were others out there already. There are other things I can do. One day i'll look closer at it and if I can do it better (and I usually can) I will.

Agreed! now I ain't saying there aren't some darned nice folks on the bay, heck two of them made my favorite sellers list lately just because of how they responded to a message. I'm just thinking the weather change (or impending change depending on your part of the country) might have something to do with the current laxed attitude.

I use filler as a last resort and only to fill in deepscratches. I use 3M spot glazing putty. I use different glues for different chores in modeling and some adhesives I use aren't even glue. For general gluing of most things I use a gap filler and the appropriate size paintbrush. Alot of folks don't realise, they can use a standard hair paintbrush in gap filling liquid glues without harming the brush or the glue then use the brush later to paint. I use a triple zero brush to glue down a distributor, but i'll use a #1 to glue block halves together. It keeps from getting too much glue on a small part like the distributor and turning it into an abstract shape. These glues actively seek out the gaps between parts, wickes it's way into the gap and makes friends. Basically it melts both sides and welds them together. For mounting resin parts and certain plastic parts i'll use Duro super glue gel and toothpicks. I plan the evening when I can get the most superglue gelling done. I apply the gel to resin parts or things like bumper mounts where another glue would need time to set. I use the toothpicks to place the glue. It gives me more control over it and where it goes and gives a cleaner build. I never squeeze the bottle and put the tip near the model! You will get a blob somewhere on the model you don't want. Use the toothpicks. I will occaisionally get nostalgic and use Testors tube glue. Things like the Tom Daniels VANDAL, i'll build entirely with testors tube glue and the things we used in the seventies to detail models. Another glue is micro crystal clear from Microscale. It can be used (with mucho practice) to make windows, guage covers, adhere windows, light lenses all without leaving a visible trace. I highly recommend it but stir it every now and then and add a drop of distilled water. Finally, if i'm working with things like trim or body script's in p.e., I brush the backside of the p.e. emblems with pledge with Futureshine and stick them in place. Then I wait fully one hour, go back and airbrush on a light coat of Future on the car and walk away. I air on my Future at 20-25 psi, unthinned. You can thin it but there's no need to. Then walk away till this time tomorrow. There are places where you might find it appropriate to use paint to affix something or you might figure out an all new way. I'm sure others here have had different experiences and have or do use other glues. The best thing to do is learn all the glues and all the examples of where to use them and what they all do. Before long when unique problems come up, you'll know without doubt right off which glue you need. After a while it just comes natural. P.S. I also use the gell to glue spark plug wires in a distributor. Chris- I have tried the zap-a-gap and similar glues in the past, but I just played hell keeping the nozzle from clogging up.

Happy Birthday Don, and many more.

I'm not talking about the "economy shipping" or anything like that. But I bought an item on the 15th, the seller just marked it shipped yesterday! Another item bought on the 17th, I had to contact the seller, who said "Oh I must have overlooked it, sorry." Still has not been marked as shipped. Half the time anymore they don't bother to mark the item shipped and less and less sellers are giving feedback. By the way, the first item, the one bought on the 15th? It's coming from Nashville to Parkersburg, and it's expected delivery date is somewhere between the 21st and the 3rd! WHAT IS GOING ON!??

Quite simply a gorgeous car.