Lindberg 1935 Auburn Boattail Speedster

[Johnt671]

I got this kit at Ollies $7.99 Sale. Another member ask me to to review this kit as he was interested in building it, so here goes.

I'm not a super builder so keep this in mind while reading this review. The kit looks to be an easy kit to build, and has some nice details. The box states that minimal gluing to build which backs up the easy to build statement. If you were to do a quick and easy build you could, but to make this model look nice you'll need to do some putting and sanding on it . It might be a nice slump buster because of the easy build, but some what challenging to make it nice.

Some pictures. nice box art.

It has a motor with it even though the chassis just shows a cast in lower end.

 

[Johnt671]

More pictures.

[Ace-Garageguy]

This kit has been around since its Pyro release many many years back (late '50s).

Though there are some scaling and proportion issues, I think your assessment of the kit as being in essence "easy to assemble, but challenging to get it to look good" is pretty much spot-on (I have several).

There is a LOT of potential here, but it will take some effort to make a really outstanding model.

Here's a nice one (NOT mine...)

Edited October 1, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[Sledsel]

On par with the Lincoln and Cord, both of which I have. May as well try this one out too. Not sure if I will make it stock or street rod it.

Thank You!

[Richard Bartrop]

Easy to assemble? HAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....no.

This is a kit from the dark ages of model kits, and subjected to much abuse over the years.  It could be considered "easy to build" when it first came out, in the sense that it was easier than carving an Auburn Speedster out of a piece of balsa wood, but not by any modern meaning of the word.  Yes, if you have some experience building models, and are prepared to do some sanding, puttying, part swapping, and a little scratchbuilding, you may be able to turn it into a halfway decent replica , and people have done it.  However, if by "easy" you mean a  little bit of effort will reward you with something that looks like what's on the box, then prepare for a journey into madness.

 

Edited October 2, 2015 by Richard Bartrop

[Ace-Garageguy]

I think by "easy to assemble" all that was meant (at least on my part) is that the parts fit together reasonably well, even on my repops. If one simply wants t glue a kit together, it works pretty well, actually.

The difficulties arise when one wants to go beyond just gluing things together.

[Harry P.]

Notice that the door panel lines stick out! 

That alone means some serious body work, never mind the rest of the kit. If your intention is to build an accurate replica of this car, like the guys have said... you are in for quite an adventure.

[sjordan2]

This kit has been around since its Pyro release many many years back (late '50s).

Though there are some scaling and proportion issues, I think your assessment of the kit as being in essence "easy to assemble, but challenging to get it to look good" is pretty much spot-on (I have several).

There is a LOT of potential here, but it will take some effort to make a really outstanding model.

Here's a nice one (NOT mine...)

You'll notice in the link to a built kit (one of the best I've seen) that the hood doesn't fit properly and needs attention.  Again, you'll want to find some larger tires. As mentioned, lots of detailing and accurizing needed. The windshield frame needs attention, too. The Lindbergh box is very misleading since it shows a 1:1 car, but at least it provides reference. 

Edited October 2, 2015 by sjordan2

[dimaxion]

Quite a challenge you are undertaking here . BTW , Dave will mix the "Cigarette" Paint for you as a Custom Mix . Hi will also Mix any ACD Color as a Custom Mix . For more correct wheels / Tires use MPC '32 Chrysler . The Hubcaps I am stuck on . The Fan is too thick and just 4 blades . The  1:1 uses a multi blade Fan . A 5 or 7 Blade ? The Engine is a tad Clunky . I am adding Spark plug Wires to enhance it . I am using the "chrome" Flex Tubes . Toning down the shine with Dulcoat . Adding a wash to emphasize the Flex Tube Appearance . The Chassis is a tad clunky too . Adding connections to the Exhaust Flex Tubes while installing the Factory Stock "Country Exhaust" , AKA , Cut - Out . Placing Brake Lines  , Fuel Lines , Speedo Cable , and E Brake Cables will enhance the looks . Along with detail painting and Aircraft Type (Hydraulic) Shocks will do the trick  . Yes , I have a LTWIP of the Auburn too . Trademark date is 1955 on these Kits . To me it is worth the price of admission for a Replica of this Milestone Classic . The effort is rewarded , IMHO , if you built one when you were young . . Thanx ..

[Johnt671]

Thanks for the tips. I'll have to look around for the Chrysler wheels and tires. I wonder if bigger tires would fill the wheel wells and make the car look lower. If not, it shouldn't be too hard to lower the suspension a little. Since I started building again two years ago I learned a lot more skills and hope to learn more on this kit.

[Richard Bartrop]

The wheels and tires from AMT's '32 Ford kits should do the trick as wheel.  Their wire wheels are sized to fit the standard AMT stock tires.

[samdiego]

I'd rather see the '33, but what an awesome subject for a new tool from Revell or Tamiya. If only

Edited October 3, 2015 by samdiego

[Richard Bartrop]

I'd rather see the '33, but what an awesome subject for a new tool from Revell or Tamiya. If only

I certainly wouldn't turn up my nose at either one.  The '35 is a beautiful car, and if there's any car worth putting in the effort to bring the Lindberg kit up to snuff, that is it.   I'd certainly like to see a better version, and I've always wondered why nobody else took that on over the years.   The Auburn Speedster is certainly not any obscure classic, at least not in North America.   At least two companies thought there was enough demand to sell full sized versions, and thanks to these replicas, just about every film set in the 1930s will have an Auburn Speedster in it somewhere.  You'd think the market would support another kit, especially if it was halfway decent.

[unclescott58]

Glad to finally see what comes in the box this kit. Thanks.

[PeeBee]

My Auburn kit is giving up its dash panel to a Deuce roadster, and the boat tail body might find its way to a Johan '31 Cadillac.

PB.

[Rob Hall]

I certainly wouldn't turn up my nose at either one.  The '35 is a beautiful car, and if there's any car worth putting in the effort to bring the Lindberg kit up to snuff, that is it.   I'd certainly like to see a better version, and I've always wondered why nobody else took that on over the years.   The Auburn Speedster is certainly not any obscure classic, at least not in North America.   At least two companies thought there was enough demand to sell full sized versions, and thanks to these replicas, just about every film set in the 1930s will have an Auburn Speedster in it somewhere.  You'd think the market would support another kit, especially if it was halfway decent.

I am surprised that Monogram didn't make one when they were on their classics kick, a '35-36 would have fit well with their Cord and Deusenberg kits.. 

Edited October 6, 2015 by Rob Hall

[stavanzer]

John R. makes a good point.

If you just want to just slap a kit together, for the sake of the old days, you could do worse than these 60 year old Pyro Relics.

(not much worse, but that's a quibble)

As others have pointed out, getting a Silk Purse out of this Sow's Ear, will take a good bit of work, a donor kit for the wheels, a truck load of skill and persistence, and a dollop of luck.  But his basic point remains.

If you just want a shelf model of an Auburn, jump in and have Fun.

[Art Anderson]

Something to keep in mind with old kits such as the Pyro Auburn:  Any kit molded from tooling made 50-60 years ago is going to reflect both the state of the art for the year(s) in which it was tooled, as well as reflecting the expected market at that time for such a kit. As such, with the Pyro/Lifelike/Lindberg Auburn, "Suddenly it's 1955 again!".  At that time, just three companies had adopted the multiple sliding core molds necessary for producing realistic model car bodies:  AMT, Product Miniatures Company and JoHan.  Everyone else in the plastic model kit industry was using the basic, simple 2-sided molds which required laying out the kit so as to assemble the body from individual panels.  

The expected market for plastic model kits in 1955?  Kids, specifically from about 8 or 9, to perhaps 11 or 12 (their older brothers were (if they build any models) more oriented to balsa "stick & tissue" airplanes, with some of them into gas powered control line flying airplanes.

The predominant subject matter for plastic model kits in 1955?  Models of military airplanes, from WW-II to the then very exciting USAF Century Series fighters; although there were some ship models, notably the highly popular and desired Revell USS Missouri, followed by their liner the SS United States.  Model cars actually started out on hobby shop shelves as more or less an afterthought--definitely in the minority.

How can I offer this set of observations?  Simply put, I was there, an 11yr old 6th grader in 1955, haunting the two hobby shops that existed here in those years, yearning for anything new in a model car kit (I built aircraft, even a few ships, but cars were what I wanted back then).

Art

[carnut]

Hey, you can always build it into a rod or custom. Just a thought.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Hey, you can always build it into a rod or custom. Just a thought.

Like, maybe, this??

[Johnt671]

Art has a few years on me, but he's right. Back in the day I was lucky to to be able to get my hands on a kit, much less paint for it. There wasn't the internet to find parts to custom build anything beyond what was in the kit. The nice thing was that most of the good kits, I'm talking the $1.98 ones, were build it three ways, so it was easier to build a nice spare parts supply. The main source for detailing were car magazines and if you were lucky a 1 to 1 car. I couldn't afford putty so it was glue it together and imagine with it would look like if I had a real one. Before I went in the service I remember using thread for brake lines and plug wires. and when I put a Hemi in a mid 60's Ford Falcon using a butter knife heated on a stove to trim the engine compartment so it would fit. Mom didn't like it much, but Dad was a modeler so he let me do it.

I'm trying to increase my skills with each model I do, so some form of custom might not be out of the question, While I was taking the pictures, I was going over my spare motor supply, but I may  have traded for one that would be a nice look.

I'm more of a sleeper type of car, so I'm not thinking too much custom body work But some 50 style wheels and tires would look nice. I'm not sure when I'll start this but maybe when I finish the 1/16 Stuz I'm doing now.

[Richard Bartrop]

I started in the late 60's, and my drug of choice was those 1/32 Pyto kits, and those Aurora sports car kits.  Everything Ace says about the state of the art is true, and it's still true that the bulk of the hobby revolves around planes and armour.   However, the state of the art has advanced considerably.  My Commodore 64 was hot stuff when I first got it, but I certainly wouldn't recommend trying to surf the Internet with one,

I applaud people who are up for a challenge, but if somebody who I only know as words on a screen asks me if this kit is easy, it would irresponsible for me to tell them it is.

[sjordan2]

Like, maybe, this??

Hopefully not. And hopefully, that's one of the fiberglass replicas.

[Harry P.]

Gotta disagree, Skip. That looks cool! I'm no fan of the "ground scraping" look, it looks cartoonish and silly to me... but raise that car 2-3-4 inches, and wow! You've got something! 

[Harry P.]

Somebody explain to me why the door panel lines on this kit stick out from the surface instead of being recessed. The only possible "reason" I can come up with is a massive brain freeze on the part of the people who cut the tooling. Even back in the Stone Age when this kit was tooled, door panel lines didn't stick up from the surface!