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Posted

Hey Tom, the right hand side is the RIGHT side!

The roadster is not quite finished - I haven't glued the body down yet because there is a slight bind causing the left hand side to ride high - I expect it might be the mufflers interfering with the radius rods and forcing the floor up.  There is also a pesky mark on the windshield that wasnt there when I took it to our clubmeeting last week - I'll have to fix that.

Tim, I want to thank you for your input in getting this car to market.  I had been in a slump for over six months and this little roadster woke me up right away! And that lovely Buick, exhaust spacing or no exhaust spacing, will make a great start for a Tommy Ivo T bucket replica and a Tony Nancy A/R replica.  Too cool!  I'll be buying lots of these.

 I am well on the way to having my first kitbash finished - all the leftovers with a Jimmy Flinstone chopped 29 coupe body and probably the leftover Hemi from the new Slingster kit (another home run for Revell!)  My intention is that the only leftover parts from the 29 kit wil be the third set of headlights!  That, people, is value for money, even at Aussie prices!

 

Cheers

Alan

  • Like 1
Posted

 

The roadster is not quite finished - I haven't glued the body down yet because there is a slight bind causing the left hand side to ride high - I expect it might be the mufflers interfering with the radius rods and forcing the floor up.  There is also a pesky mark on the windshield that wasnt there when I took it to our clubmeeting last week - I'll have to fix that.

 

Cheers

Alan

Alan...I'm guessing the problem is the steering columns what is making the the body ride high.  Push it/bend it down a bit (on the steering wheel side) before you locate the body on the chassis again.  It may also help to slightly enlargen the steering column hole in the firewall....

WAIT!  

Forgot your steering column is on the opposite side.  Retract all of the above (smile!)   Cheers...TIM ....TIM 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ha ha, too funny!!!!  Actually, while I'm still working out this issue I haven't glued the steering box onto the frame -it's just waiting for everything else to get sorted before I glue it in place.

I think this is very much the type of model that you need to build once to get your head around things before building the second (and third, and fourth and...).  I was really pushing to get this one finished for our clubmeeting last week so it didn't get the benefit of a mockup as I would normally do.  I'm sure it is fixable!

Dyno Davo has just given me some M&H slicks that we think are from the Boothill Express - the rubber rake is now awesome and they fill up the radiussed wheel arches sooooooo much better.  I'll post another pcik when she's back together.

Cheers

Alan

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

 

I think this is very much the type of model that you need to build once to get your head around things before building the second (and third, and fourth and...). 

Cheers

Alan

Agreed!  My first one was a learning experience. Figuring out the relationship between various assemblies and how they fit together, Getting past some of the challenges so you can do it right the next time.  I also found that building the first one out of the box beneficial before attempting changes, different drive trains etc on my next ones! 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

I finally have a model of my own to post based on the wonderful Revell ’29 Ford Roadster kit.

This model is a tribute to Dan Gurney’s first sanctioned competition drive in his friend Skip Hudson’s ‘29 Ford at Bonneville in 1950. If you want to learn more about the real car and model build details please see my On The Workbench and Under Glass posts

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105810-29-ford-channelled-over-deuce-frame-under-glass/

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/110772-1929-ford-roadster-dan-gurney-bonneville-1950/#comment-1582383

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  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Here is my second completed Revell hiboy.  A Bud Bryan style A-V8.  And guys, don't let this post die.  There are a lot more models that should be posted here!

Cheers

Alan

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  • Like 2
Posted

Nice builds, both of them!

Alan, what's the source of the rear tires? The flathead, AMT wires and the choice of rubber, along with the black paint, give it a classic look that's a nice alternative to the direction Revell chose.

  • Like 1
Posted

I can't believe I''ve participated in this thread but I never actually posted any of my several '29s that I've done. So here goes...

First off, the one and only Revell '29 I ever did. Perhaps it will be the last?... (I hope not!) I tried to correct the mile high stance of the kit channeled version and go with a more traditional look while using as much of the kit as possible.

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From the AMT kit, Race of Gentlemen style roadster for this year's NNL West:

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Early 50's style 6-banger powered drag roadster (from the AMT kit):

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  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I'll add a few more.  This model of Tony Nancy's 22Jr roadster is based on the AMT body but it would be just as easy to build it from a Revell, especially that you now get a Buick Nailhead to go with it.  I scratchbuilt a tubular frame based on photos from a very old Petersen magazine article.  I built this over twenty five years ago and I have been fortunate enough to see the real car in the meantime at the Petersen Museum. I now know there is a little recess in the rear of the passenger compartment to allow more room for the seat and that the trunklid was replaced by a one piece panel to the bottom of the body.  Such is life.  On the shelf, the most obvious difference to the real car are the front wheels.  They are what pretty much every other car racing in this class used but they are NOT what Tony used. He used a somewhat rare Halibrand that had a large centre disc with eight thin fins running out to rim.  I've never glued the front rims onto this model because one day I am going to find or make the correct rims.  The tarp is a vacform I made myself.

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Edited by alan barton
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  • Like 2
Posted

In 1991 I completed a model of the Niekamp roadster, at the time the most complex and detailed model I had ever attempted.  It was built for the Oakland Roadster Show Diorama at the International Model Car Builders Museum in Salt Lake City. Some years later I built this second version to keep for myself.  The body is a shortened AMT but you could easily use the Revell one. The hood, nose, bellypan and spring covers are all vacforms from hand carved wooden molds.  Not pictured here is a  tonneau  modified from the one I did for the Tony Nancy car.  The chassis is soldered up from K&S brass channel.  The grille is a photoetched item from MCG.  Still have to do a decent rear bumper because I was never completely happy with the one I build out of paper clips for the first model. Hope you enjoy it.

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  • Like 2
Posted

This may be as close to finished as these ever get. You just never know.

Buick nailhead powered, on a '32 frame:

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Late pre-war dry-lakes runner. Hot 4-cylinder power:

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Post-war dry-lakes runner. Ardun Ford V8 power:

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Traditional A-V8 full-fendered roadster:

Image result for ace-garageguy '29 ford

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, alan barton said:

In 1991 I completed a model of the Niekamp roadster, at the time the most complex and detailed model I had ever attempted.  It was built for the Oakland Roadster Show Diorama at the International Model Car Builders Museum in Salt Lake City. Some years later I built this second version to keep for myself.  The body is a shortened AMT but you could easily use the Revell one. The hood, nose, bellypan and spring covers are all vacforms from hand carved wooden molds.  Not pictured here is a  tonneau  modified from the one I did for the Tony Nancy car.  The chassis is soldered up from K&S brass channel.  The grille is a photoetched item from MCG.  Still have to do a decent rear bumper because I was never completely happy with the one I build out of paper clips for the first model. Hope you enjoy it.

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This is probably the coolest one I've seen yet.

  • Like 1

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