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Posted

Quick, easy question. For those who use canopy glue for their windshields- what brand do you use or recommend? I did a web search and it seems that the price varies widely. Looking for an easy effective glue.

Later-

Posted

Related image I recommend Micro Krystal Klear.

Bear in mind that none of these white PVA (polyvinyl-acetate) glues have much wet strength, and windows will usually need to be fixtured in position while drying

Posted

I've been having real good luck lately with Tacky Glue, bought in the crafts section at Walmart. And WAY cheaper than "hobby" products (many of which are just basically Elmer's Glue anyway). 

Posted

I've been using Testors Clear Parts Cement,...

I like it, dries clear, doesn't affect the paint (Acrylic or Enamels), and it can be cleaned up with a little warm water.

I have some Micro Kristal Klear, which I haven't used yet, I think it performs about the same, yes ?

29 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

I recommend Micro Krystal Klear

 

Posted
1 minute ago, Belugawrx said:

I have some Micro Kristal Klear, which I haven't used yet, I think it performs about the same, yes ?

Yup. ALL "canopy" glues are basically the same stuff and behave similarly. Some are runnier, some tack up quicker, but they are all PVA and do just what you said.

I tried the MKK, and it worked so well, I never bothered trying any others.

Posted

Try Gator's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. It dries clear and is strong enough to hold styrene together. Windshields and other clear parts stay attached. I use it to test assemble a model so I can check fit and placement of parts. Other guys have used it in building armor kits. It can be painted over with enamels or acrylics This stuff is great for attaching PE, too. It won't hold in high stress areas; but, it'll do the job for everything else.

Image result for gator grip model glue

Posted
5 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Related image I recommend Micro Krystal Klear.

Bear in mind that none of these white PVA (polyvinyl-acetate) glues have much wet strength, and windows will usually need to be fixtured in position while drying

Magic, this stuff. Given that it mostly gets used for small detail parts and windows, I'd guess that 40% of any given model (based on the number of parts)  I build is held together with MKK. I use it for mockups, windows, gluing parts to toothpicks for painting... you name it. It gets used for small lenses like instruments and turn signals too.

Posted

I've been using Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy for a number of years now, as it dries clear and has a strong bond. I haven't brought a "repair kit" for I don't know how long to club meetings, contests, or NNL's when I display my cars. The epoxy is a bit pricey and there's some waste also, but like I've said before that it does have a strong bond.

Posted

Thanks everyone for the input. I'll see what the LHS has but will probably order something online.

On a side note- for headlight lenses I've been using Elmer's gel glue. It comes in the same type of bottles as their white school glue but it comes in a blue color that, when dry, gives the headlight a slight blue tint more like real lenses.

Later-

Posted
On 12/31/2017 at 1:10 PM, Zoom Zoom said:

Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Amazing stuff. Available at most hobby shops. I use it on every model.

Agreeing with this I am .

I also have a bottle BSI Foam Safe CA glue to use on clear parts too.

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