1924 Delage GP - a what ?

[absmiami]

dental bits:  I do own a rare right angle Foredom drill - which works like a dentists drill w latch key tools - gonna make me something out of Delrin that will hopefully mark the metal surface with a "turned" pattern - we'll see ...

but there are more parts to make - like the windscreen

had a couple of failed attempts in brass - using small brass channel - the solder runs into the recess where the "glass" sits - so ...

I then glued up some evergreen rod, bar, and sheet - use .022 x .022 square bar - it's an HO scale size - finally found a use for it  - and .025 round rod

had to be careful filing and sanding the sheet stock to shape ...

 

[absmiami]

the stakes that carry the windscreen pivot points and made of silver rod and brass tube - the results are shown for purposes of a test fit

looks right - but it's fragile - might later try to make one with a brass rod instead of the plastic

the main thing is that the part has channels to slip the "glass" into ...

[absmiami]

referring back to the Leno video pg 1 - the car is started with the use of a hand operated fuel pump inside the cockpit.  making this fr brass tube and evergreen bar stock - that is shaped and drilled - and will attach to the inside wall of the cockpit with some rivets.  the fuel line runs forward fr the tank to the pump, and then runs forward to the engine bulkhead and through to the manifolds on both sides of the engine ..... I think ...

[Gramps46]

I am dying with envy.

Gary

[Italianhorses]

Lots of tasty bits!

[Straightliner59]

On 2/1/2018 at 2:57 PM, absmiami said:

so having broken my last  #75 drill it was off to the local hobby store for some more provisions

yes - there is still one lonely hobby store - specializing in trains - in Miami -

Ready to Roll - for you train fans - and they carry a good assortment of scratch-building supplies

for the remaining rivets on the body I'm trying some phosphor bronze wire - .020

the gadget in the picture  marks the metal at .100 intervals, and was made from this wire - holes drilled with #76 drill

gonna use some drill lubricant - so I don't break all of my #76's ...

these rivet holes will crawl around the cowl and down the length of the body  - as the body was riveted in this manner to the chassis

 

Andy, I just learned the other day that you can buy tubes of ten bits on Ebay, for less than five bucks, each. I picked up a tube of #73s and one of #76s for right about $4.70, each. I can't recall what I paid for the last bits I got at the hobby shop, but, I think they were about $1.39 each. When I found them online, I kind of figured it was crazy not to buy them. Just a heads up, since this kind of work can cause one to burn through them, in a hurry!

 

[absmiami]

putting aside the driver's compartment esoterica momentarily

time to make the leaf springs and shackles

brass rod - .033

evergreen rod and bar ...

the shackles are made in one piece  with a sleeve  - instead of two

this will keep everything straight and add strength

the leaf spring is made from nickel silver bar stock sold by one of the Japanese after market sites - Best Balsa ??  It is scale 1 and 3/4 inch wide or  .070 inches - which looks pretty close to scale accurate

- the stock is measured on the chassis and then the ends are soldered from  .047 brass tube and silver solder

  

[absmiami]

so the leaf springs are held together with thin strips of the 3M masking roll and then pinned against a curve shaped onto the edge of a popcycle stick and soldered with low temp solder

my first leaf spring has four leaves - but I think there were more - I'm going to add one or two more

the axle sits on top of the leaf in a bracket that  also has attachment points for the shocks

then the whole thing will get wrapped in fine thread - which is a shame - because it looks pretty cool ....

[absmiami]

Gramps - are you gonna get a Profil 24 D type ?

let's do a joint build blog on the kit

we'll both build the kit - different chassis  - sort of like co-habitation ???

 

 

[66belair]

This not something I would normally follow but it is a very interesting project.

[Gramps46]

1 hour ago, absmiami said:

Gramps - are you gonna get a Profil 24 D type ?

let's do a joint build blog on the kit

we'll both build the kit - different chassis  - sort of like co-habitation ???

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion Andy, I feel honored.  Sent you a PM.

[afx]

Like they way you made the shackles, might have to try that.

[landman]

Absolutely fascinating. This good for us "the rest of them". We learn a lot by following a thread like this. I am in awe. 

[absmiami]

"This not something I would normally follow but it is a very interesting project"

I was smitten with obscure old French grand prix cars 25 years ago when I saw the Cunningham/Collier owned Delage '27 GP car at the museum in Naples - here's a shot - no flash permitted - taken at that time - I've got much better iphone pix of this car that I took this year.....

 

[absmiami]

"I am in awe"

I am in Miami

stop in some time

dept of corrections:

the nickel silver bar in the leaf springs was purchased fr Media Mix last yr

the film used to hold the leaf spring together while soldering is called Parafilm

some more shots of second leaf spring - and yes - balsa wood is flammable ...

Gramps was all set to do the joint Jag build with me until I suggested "co-habitation"

understandable ....

 

[absmiami]

the rear axle is clasped by a "collar" - what's the proper name  for this ? - that is bolted with U shaped bolts to the top of the leaf springs

have to spend xtra time making these because they have to be strong and symmetric  - have to hold the axle level and at the correct height in relation to the front axle ...

evergreen  stock -  .125 by .156 and evergreen tube - drilled with .020 for the bolt holes - top and bottom

will be finished in light blue as with the chassis

[absmiami]

these collars also have tabs that will attach to the ends of the friction shocks that are suspended above from the chassis rails - see pix on pg 1 - they'll be made later from nickel silver …

the U bolts are bent from .020 nickel silver rod that will carry nuts on top

 next the rear axle and gear transfer case and rear brake drums

- time to fire up the Sherline ….

[absmiami]

off to the lathe ...

chucked some clear acrylic rod to make the axle halves

the sherline has a feature that allows the headstock to swivel to cut a taper ...

I just eyeballed the taper and cut with two cutters - one was cut from a blank years ago and I use it to cut the bell or horn shape on one end

then drill the other end with a 1/16 bit to take the axle stub

the clear acrylic deforms a bit when turned down below about 1/8

- but  corrections can be made with a sanding stick and I don't need much precision

- just two halves that look alike and fit into the differential

[absmiami]

a flange to fit/glue the end of the axkle into the diff is cut with a parting tool and then the same tool is used to part the axle from the rod

the flange cut is simply measured with a piece of evergreen that is marked for this purpose - nothing fancy  - precise enough 

could be much more precise with the hand wheel calibrations - but it's not needed ...

next maybe the brake drums - probably aluminum  - and maybe the spindles  ...   

[absmiami]

by the way - most of the rear suspension components will be painted light blue to match the chassis 

- this is how the restored car was finished - and the leaf springs will be wrapped in thread - per the photos on pg 1

 

 

 

[absmiami]

7500 hits

celebrating with Delaware's finest ...

so I'll be on the lathe and milling machine for a while

shot of my "tool box" - with cutters purchased when I bought the lathe (years ago) and some additional customs cutters that I ground on a grinding wheel from cutting blanks - used for specific purposes - such as cutting the cooling slots in the drums ....

the resin cast rear brake drums fr Model Factory Pico are replaced with lathe turned drums in aluminum - the front drums will be resin castings that I had made for a similar project some time ago - both fr and rear drums will be painted the color of the chassis.

[absmiami]

the drums are drilled with the headstock drill

1163 shows the second rear drum fitted over the axle - which I expect to have to shorten about 1/16 or so...

[absmiami]

the brake servo [that's what the 1/12 Fiat scratch-builder calls it in his build no the British model cars site - really really good build] that attaches to the back and bottom of the transmission case is made in the same way - it is smaller than the brake drums but also features the cooling slots.  

[absmiami]

On the inside of the drums is a "backing plate" - think that's what its called - that has a ridge on its circumference.  - do you know how hard it is to spell that word ???

made from plastic sheet in two parts  - glued with liquid glue and then turned on a drill with sanding sticks for shape - need to make a second one

these will be painted aluminum

think I'll turn the dash gauges next - or the wheel centers  ???

[Gramps46]

Oh my oh my, I take my hat off out of respect for what you are doing here.  And thanks for sharing your process details with us.

Gary