Side by side by side Dragster builds...Kemp-Teresi-Sobak

[bobthehobbyguy]

Stunning work. 

[ClayK]

Wow John....well now I feel silly. That is a fantastic update! I think mine just went back into the box!! Looks awesome....

[John Teresi]

1 hour ago, ClayK said:

Wow John....well now I feel silly. That is a fantastic update! I think mine just went back into the box!! Looks awesome....

Clay....thanks Brother......Don Garlits has always been my hero as a little kid.......I was at Lions Drag Strip hanging on the fence when I saw his Explosion ......I always thought his cars looked nasty fast........we haven't seen anything yet when you and Chris post your next up-date......hope all is well

[Mooneyzs]

40 minutes ago, John Teresi said:

we haven't seen anything yet when you and Chris post your next up-date

John... you know why I haven't been working on my Goose dragster and you know I am trying my best to get the funny car done in time for the IPMS Nationals here in Phoenix in 3 weeks.

[John Teresi]

27 minutes ago, Mooneyzs said:

John... you know why I haven't been working on my Goose dragster and you know I am trying my best to get the funny car done in time for the IPMS Nationals here in Phoenix in 3 weeks.

Chris ......I meant to say when you and Clay have time to  post ......"IT" will be Epic!!!!!!

[Mooneyzs]

1 hour ago, John Teresi said:

Chris ......I meant to say when you and Clay have time to  post ......"IT" will be Epic!!!!!!

As you can tell I didnt quite know what you were saying... lol . Now I understand.

[Codi]

Amazing detail no matter what scale you're building in John.  Nicely done.  Looking forward to any and all of the 3 musketeer posts on this thread.  It's been fun to watch.  Thanks guys.  Tim

[sflam123]

Amazing work by all of you.  Mr Teresi, your Garlits car is stunning!!  Thank you all for this thread!

[Davewilly]

great looking work there John!  Its coming along nicely!

[Metalmad]

Wow all of you guys are just amazing builders and really fun to watch !

[jchrisf]

On 5/30/2018 at 1:38 AM, Mooneyzs said:

Here is the Manifold glued in place:

Hey Chris, I was just re-reading this entire thread to learn more about what you all do and noticed here that you have paint on areas where you would apply adhesive.  Do you remove the paint from these parts (like the manifold) to glue other parts to it or do you just use a certain glue/epoxy that will stick to the paint?

Also, am I right that if I am going to get some Alclad Chrome (and other Alclad colors) I need to use HoK Black as the base and then clear over that before shooting the Alclad?  That chrome looks awesome... everyone raves about the Molotow being the best but your Alclad Chrome looks better to me.

[Chris in Berwyn]

Clay, a question for you.  I seem to recall reading that you paint outdoors.  If that is correct, do you paint in the open air, use a box to keep stuff off the paint, or what?  Where I have moved painting outside is more convenient but I’ve never done it before, so looking for tips.  Thanks!

[Mooneyzs]

Chris.... I typically use Zap a Gap (green Bottle) when I glue parts that are painted. In all honesty sometimes it depends on what parts I am gluing because I may use 5 or 30 min epoxy as well. As for the Alclad Chrome I had originally used the Alclad black base and I didn't get very good results personally and I was Lucky enough a long time ago that John Teresi shared his technique with me and how he paints his Alclad and I found what worked best for me was using my HOK black base and then my PPG Omni Urethane clear. My results were much better with that combination. But I will tell you this that your preparation for what ever you are going to Aclad is Key to having a nice finish. sanding and primering and then wet sanding the primer with finer grit worked the best for me. I have never tried the Molotow Chrome before so I can't really compare the two. So far I have been really happy with the Alcad.

[jchrisf]

6 hours ago, Mooneyzs said:

So far I have been really happy with the Alcad.

I'm really happy with your Alclad too! 

And thanks for the tips.  What paints do you always have on hand for your engine and chassis work?

[Mooneyzs]

7 hours ago, jchrisf said:

I'm really happy with your Alclad too! 

And thanks for the tips.  What paints do you always have on hand for your engine and chassis work?

Thank you...  I am getting more comfortable with the Alclad and have been having better results lately. I have taken alot of John Teresi's technic's he has shared with me and tried them out and it's really helped. He is the Master when it comes to Alclad.

As far as colors for engines goes... I have a bunch of alclad Aluminums, steel, magnesium, gold, pale gold and titanium. HOK black Base, Mr Hobby Semi Gloss black. It honestly depends on what color I need and what I have in my stash...lol I used alot of the colors mentioned above on the funny car. 

Most of the chassis I have painted have been different colors or black. I need to do some test spray outs for different steels and similar colors to help me find a color that looks like 4130  chromemoly or close to it as I can get to the raw material.

[jchrisf]

Very cool.. Thanks Chris!  I'm going to stock up.

[Mooneyzs]

Hello Fellas... I think it is time for an update. I have done a little more work to the Goose's Chassis. I wasn't 100% happy with the kit roll bar and didn't like that one of the chassis tubes was molded into the rear seat. So I decided that changer her up just a tad. She isn't perfect but good enough for me, I still need to clean the joints up and hopefully be ready for paint after that. Here are a few pics....

 

Here I just used some Evergreen Styrene Rod to make my parts:

 

 

Next I was able to shoot some Tamiya primer on it to see how much more I need to fix the joints.... and I learned it needs a lot of work...lol:

 

[bobthehobbyguy]

Nice work on the rollbar.

[Bernard Kron]

21 minutes ago, Mooneyzs said:

...I wasn't 100% happy with the kit roll bar and didn't like that one of the chassis tubes was molded into the rear seat. So I decided that changer her up just a tad. She isn't perfect but good enough for me, ...

 

Here I just used some Evergreen Styrene Rod to make my parts:

 

Nice! How to do you bend your styrene rod? I don;t see any obvious heat marks.

 

Edited August 24, 2018 by Bernard Kron

[Mooneyzs]

Bob... Thank you Very much.

Bernard... Believe it or not I actually used a hair Dryer to heat the tube up and I used various Items to wrap the tubing/Rod around to get the shape I was wanting. I tried a lighter at first to heat it and had major failure doing that...lol

[ClayK]

I need to get in gear and get back to mine! Looks like some nice cage work Chris. Time to get that baby painted!!

[Mooneyzs]

Thanks Clay.... I need to do a little more cleaning up and then it will be ready for paint. Hopefully it eint take much. Maybe I will get lucky and be able to get some paint on it this weekend 

[1320wayne]

On 8/23/2018 at 10:56 PM, Mooneyzs said:

Bob... Thank you Very much.

Bernard... Believe it or not I actually used a hair Dryer to heat the tube up and I used various Items to wrap the tubing/Rod around to get the shape I was wanting. I tried a lighter at first to heat it and had major failure doing that...lol

One thing I"ve always found that works for shaping small pieces like this is to use a small block of wood that you can measure and draw out your shape, tap in some brad nails to use as a jig and go about shaping your piece. The hair dryer trick definitely works as it"s usually hot enough to soften but not hot enough to melt.

 

Great job, by the way.

Edited August 25, 2018 by 1320wayne

[iBorg]

Okay, I'll try the hair dryer. A candle seems a bit inconsistent.  For round shapes I use the tool handles from this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-piece-doming-block-and-punch-set-93539.html

 

My question is how did you get the pieces to stay together. I'm trying to just do the roll bar without the head restraint....I can glue it but its temporary at best.

 

[Mooneyzs]

On 8/25/2018 at 8:50 AM, 1320wayne said:

One thing I"ve always found that works for shaping small pieces like this is to use a small block of wood that you can measure and draw out your shape, tap in some brad nails to use as a jig and go about shaping your piece. The hair dryer trick definitely works as it"s usually hot enough to soften but not hot enough to melt.

 

Great job, by the way.

Wayne... Thank you very much,  I never though about using a block of wood with some nails. That's a great tip, Thanks. I found when I was trying to use a Lighter that the rod and tube would get to certain point and basically melt it so that's when I decided to give the hair drier a try and it seemed to work pretty good.

23 hours ago, iBorg said:

My question is how did you get the pieces to stay together. I'm trying to just do the roll bar without the head restraint....I can glue it but its temporary at best.

Mike... I just glued the roll cage to the chassis with Weld on #3. So the rear hoop on the chassis that I added that the seat butts up against I actually drilled  a .020" dia hole and added a .020" dia brass pin. I glued that hoop first and then I made the main bar for the cage then the back bar. I glued those in place before I decided to add the little flat bar for the head restraint. After I let the Weld on #3 dry I went back around each join with some Zap a Gap CA glue.