1970 Boss 429 - DONE

[landman]

I'm about to start the Revell Motor City Muscle version. First, a question. Why would they want you to paint the exhaust "wood"? To simulate burnt metal? Typo?

Edited January 17, 2019 by landman

[Snake45]

Obviously a typo. Should be M. BTW, see my sig line below. 

[landman]

25 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Obviously a typo. Should be M. BTW, see my sig line below. 

[SnozzaP]

I built this kit and didn’t even notice ?

[Snake45]

2 hours ago, SnozzaP said:

I built this kit and didn’t even notice ?

You must be a real modeler. 

[Bob Ellis]

It's not wood, it's madera LOL

[Oldcarfan27]

Everybody knows that. You paint it wood because it's a renewable resource and that its better for the environment. Duh!?

[SnozzaP]

6 hours ago, Snake45 said:

You must be a real modeler. 

??‍♂️ 

[landman]

Body is in the shop being prepped for clearcoat. About the clearcoat, has anyone ever sprayed Pledge floor polish? I find it is still the best clear. If so, what would you clean the airbrush with?

Edited January 7, 2019 by landman

[Snake45]

5 minutes ago, landman said:

Body is in the shop being prepped for clearcoat. About the clearcoat, has anyone ever sprayed Pledge floor polish? I find it is still the best clear. If so, what would you clean the airbrush with?

I've sprayed it. Airbrush can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol or ammonia. Some have said that ammonia can damage airbrush parts, so after ammonia, flush with water. 

Practice spraying it on something else before you try a good job. The stuff's tricky. It will look like you don't have enough on, and then all of a sudden it will start running, so stop just BEFORE you think you have enough and wait for it to flow out. If you get runs, you can wick them off the lower body edge with a paper towel while it's still wet. Don't be afraid to lay on two or three or four thin coats. If you screw up, you can wash it right off with ammonia. 

Pledge/Future comes with a LOT of baggage/problems, which is why I almost never use it for a final finish. Once in a great while, due to some special circumstance, I'll hand-brush a coat or two of it on, but generally I prefer a clear enamel, lacquer, or even acrylic. 

[MrObsessive]

If this helps, you can let the Future sit out for a bit and let it 'thicken' up to reduce the chance of it running. IMO, though if you want a more trouble free clear, I'd give Tamiya's X-22 Acrylic Clear a try. One drawback though is it can take quite some time to dry thoroughly and this is where having a dehydrator comes in mighty handy. I've used this as a clear coat in the past, let it sit in the dehydrator overnight and the next day the clear was hard as a rock and ready for wet sanding and polishing.

One other problem I have with Future is that its shrinking capabilities are TREMENDOUS! It can look like you DO have enough on, but check back an hour later and not so much.

Proceed with great caution if you want to go the Future route for final clear coats.

Edited January 7, 2019 by MrObsessive

[landman]

I would use Tamyia clear if I had some. I guess I'll have to order a few cans. I have flat clear and pearl clear but not straight clear.

[Snake45]

I've only used Tamiya clear once, and it eventually cracked and went "alligator skin" on me. Obviously, I'll never use it again. 

The VERY BEST clear I've ever used is Model Master Metalizer Sealer, airbrushed. A bit hard to find, but well worth it. 

[landman]

I bought some Duplicolor Acrylic clear and tried it on the back panel It seems to be behaving so far.

[Snake45]

53 minutes ago, landman said:

I bought some Duplicolor Acrylic clear and tried it on the back panel It seems to be behaving so far.

I've heard good things about that stuff. Have never tried it, but I plan to sometime soon. 

[landman]

Same primer, same paint, same clear. Why does paint hate me so?

[jjsipes]

I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

[vamach1]

32 minutes ago, jjsipes said:

I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

Looks fantastic.  It even has the Boss 302 shock towers. 

[landman]

10 hours ago, jjsipes said:

I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

 

I used TS-14 and it wasn't very shiny. Maybe i should have given it another coat. as I use TS-14 before Alclad and I get a nice gloss.

[landman]

Repainted the rear panel and cleared the car with Gunze Sangyo Aqueous clear. Didn't want to chance the Duplicolor on the Tamyia paint again. I'll use it only on Duplicolor.

Motor is ready

[MeatMan]

Nice work Pat. I built one last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. 

[jjsipes]

Looks great

[dragmodels44]

Awesome job! Killer muscle car!

[66belair]

Beautiful work.

[Monty]

Very nice work all the way through.  This will definitely be worth watching. 

Looks like you nailed the color for the valve covers.  Would you mind telling me which exact paint you used on them?