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1970 Boss 429 - DONE


landman

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Body is in the shop being prepped for clearcoat. About the clearcoat, has anyone ever sprayed Pledge floor polish? I find it is still the best clear. If so, what would you clean the airbrush with?

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Edited by landman
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5 minutes ago, landman said:

Body is in the shop being prepped for clearcoat. About the clearcoat, has anyone ever sprayed Pledge floor polish? I find it is still the best clear. If so, what would you clean the airbrush with?

I've sprayed it. Airbrush can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol or ammonia. Some have said that ammonia can damage airbrush parts, so after ammonia, flush with water. 

Practice spraying it on something else before you try a good job. The stuff's tricky. It will look like you don't have enough on, and then all of a sudden it will start running, so stop just BEFORE you think you have enough and wait for it to flow out. If you get runs, you can wick them off the lower body edge with a paper towel while it's still wet. Don't be afraid to lay on two or three or four thin coats. If you screw up, you can wash it right off with ammonia. 

Pledge/Future comes with a LOT of baggage/problems, which is why I almost never use it for a final finish. Once in a great while, due to some special circumstance, I'll hand-brush a coat or two of it on, but generally I prefer a clear enamel, lacquer, or even acrylic. 

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If this helps, you can let the Future sit out for a bit and let it 'thicken' up to reduce the chance of it running. IMO, though if you want a more trouble free clear, I'd give Tamiya's X-22 Acrylic Clear a try. One drawback though is it can take quite some time to dry thoroughly and this is where having a dehydrator comes in mighty handy. I've used this as a clear coat in the past, let it sit in the dehydrator overnight and the next day the clear was hard as a rock and ready for wet sanding and polishing.

One other problem I have with Future is that its shrinking capabilities are TREMENDOUS! It can look like you DO have enough on, but check back an hour later and not so much.

Proceed with great caution if you want to go the Future route for final clear coats.

Edited by MrObsessive
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I've only used Tamiya clear once, and it eventually cracked and went "alligator skin" on me. Obviously, I'll never use it again. 

The VERY BEST clear I've ever used is Model Master Metalizer Sealer, airbrushed. A bit hard to find, but well worth it. 

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53 minutes ago, landman said:

I bought some Duplicolor Acrylic clear and tried it on the back panel It seems to be behaving so far.

I've heard good things about that stuff. Have never tried it, but I plan to sometime soon. 

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I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

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32 minutes ago, jjsipes said:

I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

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Looks fantastic.  It even has the Boss 302 shock towers. :D

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10 hours ago, jjsipes said:

I've got one of these started and don't even notice the type. As far as clear goes, I've been using Tamiya TS-13 straight out if the can with no problems. I've also been using paint from Scsle Finishes and have not needed to clear them. Here's mine with Calypso Coral from Scale Finishes, no clear. Keep at it will look great when completed.

 

I used TS-14 and it wasn't very shiny. Maybe i should have given it another coat. as I use TS-14 before Alclad and I get a nice gloss.

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