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Italeri - Ferrari 275 GTS (Spyder N.A.R.T.)


89AKurt

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13 minutes ago, DukeE said:

LOL. That's an Automobile Club of Italy membership sticker, expires in Dec. 65, so too early for 4 cam. Fun detail though, like an AAA sticker.  

The carb photos are a 3 carb 2 cam, so great for a Cal or non-Comp SWB build. Sorry I'm posting this stuff so much. Just spent a lot of time with these things over the years. :)

No worries man!  I've never bothered getting to know the details of these cars.  It's always when I build any model that I look and learn.  BTW: Since I've been "googling" for images, my WIP thread is showing up in the first page, so we better get this right!

This is a non standard detail that I decided to add, a fire extinguisher.  Figured with a multi-million dollar car, it's cheap insurance.  I have the awesome Hobby Design part kit, with several different sizes, so I painted the tank.
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My first one was used in Porndy:

Worked on other details today, such as the other door panel, painting brake fluid to appease our OCD, adding photo-etch screw heads to the air filter.  But the really exciting part, was trying out the stainless steel thin wall tubing for the exhaust tips!  Wrapped the peg with aluminum tape to get it big enough to fit inside the tubing.  Because I used the Dremel cutoff disk, it got some heat tint that can't be duplicated with paint, I don't care how awesome you are doing that trick. ?  The diameter is a tiny bit smaller than the kit part and black pipe, but the next size up of tubing would have been bigger.   Refined the footrest.
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Brand new headers are FB. Cap in front of batt is oil fill. Dry sump tank is in behind battery in fender. huge but Invisible. Just fill tube. Not a wet sump like 2cams. Battery with Magnetti decal is correct, looks almost like 6V. Don't worry about lower hose, but you will. :D

Included dry sump and cooler detail. Simple loop cooler, things always ran cool anyway, even in traffic.

It's just me, but I'd swap to 6 cap battery. The series stuff is only for nutballs that show this stuff. Fiamm or Magnetti decals ok, both OEM.  

Tailpipes look awesome. tiniest bit of dark brown/tan wash just past lip adds the nice lean mixture from running snot out of it rather than idling in traffic rich. LOL. 

Image result for 275 GTB/4 fiamm battery"

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Edited by DukeE
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34 minutes ago, porschercr said:

Kurt,

Your doing an phenomenal job on this kit.

Trevor

Thank you!

24 minutes ago, DukeE said:

Brand new headers are FB. Cap in front of batt is oil fill. Dry sump tank is in behind battery in fender. huge but Invisible. Just fill tube. Not a wet sump like 2cams. Battery with Magnetti decal is correct, looks almost like 6V. Don't worry about lower hose, but you will. :D

Included dry sump and cooler detail. Simple loop cooler, things always ran cool anyway, even in traffic.

It's just me, but I'd swap to 6 cap battery. The series stuff is only for nutballs that show this stuff. Fiamm or Magnetti decals ok, both OEM.  

Tailpipes look awesome. tiniest bit of dark brown/tan wash just past lip adds the nice lean mixture from running snot out of it rather than idling in traffic rich. LOL. 

[...]

Funny thing about the drawing showing that cap with 4 ridges, when the photo shows 5.  My gas cap is a clumsy rendition with 5.  I could redo the battery, but I'm already adding other stuff guaranteeing an extended ETA.  Thanks so much for those parts drawings, beats the cutaway drawing that I printed out.  Dare I ask about the steering shaft and what was used for the box, rack & pinion or something else?  I want to add enough for wow factor, don't wish to turn this into a hero project.  Love the tip (pun intended). ?  So these were 6 volt?  I had a '48 Chevy pickup that still had 6 volt. ?

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No, 12V, batteries just looked kinda like 6V. Battery fine either way. Like the fire system. On option lists and window stickers they call it 'handly fire extinguisher'.

5 Rib cap is correct as far as every one I've seen/had. Same as gas cap. 

Steering was worm and roller, but great feedback. Diagrams scarce but I'm looking. Shared externals with 2 cam, I found these.

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Huh, basically a right angle drill looking thing.  The kit has awesome detail suspension and fixed steering rods at the suspension, but to make it steerable, I'm resigned to not do it.

I can do exhaust tips! ?  Made the second set, thought I should show how the aluminum tape makes a snug fit.
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I'm resistant to trying flocking powder, seen enough jobs that don't look good, especially at the edge.  Made the passenger side carpet tonight.  I make sketch paper patterns before cutting up the limited supply of the holiday munchie packaging.  The driver side will be a little more involved.
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8 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I'm resistant to trying flocking powder, seen enough jobs that don't look good, especially at the edge.  Made the passenger side carpet tonight.  I make sketch paper patterns before cutting up the limited supply of the holiday munchie packaging.  The driver side will be a little more involved.
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What is that material you are using? Holiday Munchie packaging? what kind of munchies is it?

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4 hours ago, Rich Chernosky said:

Kurt...I like you carpeting trick. I have used it myself to good results.  Flocking is an artform all unto itself. It involves the right flock, the right adhesive and tools. It is a lot quicker than what you are doing but yours looks better so it is worth the effort. 

Yes, I've seen some have success with it.

1 hour ago, VanSpence said:

What is that material you are using? Holiday Munchie packaging? what kind of munchies is it?

Been years since I grabbed that before it went in the trash.  It had candy, nuts, in a box.  It's vacuum-formed plastic, that's been flocked.  I look at packaging of everything, such as wine bottles that have the lead-like foil (not shrink-wrapped plastic), food packaging that is clear plastic which is a little thicker and more clear than the last Evergreen I got, laser hologram chrome labels, even steel such as the bottom of a holiday candy can, tearing apart dead electronic devices for wires and cool looking parts.  I'm always on the lookout for free raw material that could be superior to aftermarket detail parts.

Used on the trunk for the Monster Miata, paints well, so I can choose the color and not have to order each color every time.  You can see salvaged parts, the shut-off switch is a metal part, mirrors came from electronic device, think the wires did too.
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Carpet is done.   Mounted for painting.  Need to finish the cockpit before spraying paint.  Seeing what a Bosozoku spoiler would look like. ?
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A pet peeve, clear lights that need painting.  I tried a technique that Gerald Wingrove's first book had, negative space, drilled from the back the "bulb" for the turn signals.  The taillights got the Farmers Insurance reflective sticker treatment, punched out with the Waldron tool.  I removed the peg starting with the Dremel, then drilled enough for the sticker to drop in with Elmers clear glue.
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RE: headers... When I was younger and still actively building Ferrari kits, I was told by a "certain Boston-area rock guitarist who also was into Ferraris" that the white headers were race headers... that was all he said and I am not sure if they were porcelain like the strange blue ones that AMC used or not.  Something to do with handling extra heat, perhaps?  I never did look further into the detail.

This pic is from the coupe kit I built a long time ago, and should give you a decent idea how much space you will have... if you want me to snap more I can, I just need to get to the models:

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Edited by Nells250
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3 hours ago, porschercr said:

Outstanding!

Thanks!

1 hour ago, kelson said:

I'm blown away from watching what you are doing!!

LOL Thank you.

1 hour ago, Nells250 said:

RE: headers... When I was younger and still actively building Ferrari kits, I was told by a "certain Boston-area rock guitarist who also was into Ferraris" that the white headers were race headers... that was all he said and I am not sure if they were porcelain like the strange blue ones that AMC used or not.  Something to do with handling extra heat, perhaps?  I never did look further into the detail.

This pic is from the coupe kit I built a long time ago, and should give you a decent idea how much space you will have... if you want me to snap more I can, I just need to get to the models:

[...]

Yea, I'm used to F1 race cars with white exhaust. This helped, now I see the vacant space in front of the radiator, thanks a lot. ??   Looking at the parts drawings above, was wondering how they accessed the overflow tank, now I know.  So now that, oil cooler, and air horns.....

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Teeny tiny parts..... also showing one reason I take forever, hate brush painting, would rather mask and airbrush.  What I have done here, is gloss black for the Alclad polished aluminum.  Semi-gloss black a few other parts, such as the fuel filler/cap that was overlooked before (knife blade pointing to cap), and the brake booster box is not silver as instructions show.  Need to step away and let paint dry before proceeding to interior color.
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Normal people would be happy with the shift lever.  Other normal people use the common pin detail hack.  Cut wire that is thinner than the usual pin.  Cut off the knob, filled the tiny ejection pin mark (should have taken picture of other side to show that) with superglue/baking soda, scraped/sanded all around, drilled (didn't stab my fingers ?), and this is one of the few things brush painted, along with window winder knobs. ?
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So, *have to* make a tool bag, fuel pump, overflow tank, oil cooler, air horns, steering shaft and box.  After the fire extinguisher. ?

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Paper details, which started with the license plate,  added engine bay plates, then owners manuals and the last item, a model box!  Airbrushed Deft on the plates, but not the paper items.  For the manuals, cut several pieces of paper and glued together, clamped between glass, also wrapped around the binder edge, then I cut with scissors, much like how books are made.  Made a wood block for the box, again used the glass to press on each side.
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22 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

?

A pet peeve, clear lights that need painting.  I tried a technique that Gerald Wingrove's first book had, negative space, drilled from the back the "bulb" for the turn signals.  The taillights got the Farmers Insurance reflective sticker treatment, punched out with the Waldron tool.  I removed the peg starting with the Dremel, then drilled enough for the sticker to drop in with Elmers clear glue.
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Kurt, You painted those lenses transparent yellow?  Aren't those transparent orange on the 1:1 car?  Directionals usually use amber (orange colored)  lenses. Foglights (and headlights on French cars are usually yellow.

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32 minutes ago, peteski said:

Kurt, You painted those lenses transparent yellow?  Aren't those transparent orange on the 1:1 car?  Directionals usually use amber (orange colored)  lenses. Foglights (and headlights on French cars are usually yellow.

I painted red again on the taillights, including over the yellow, which made it more orange.  I'm going to do a third coat later.  I'm also going to scrape the yellow off the turn signals, not happy with that either.  This is why I don't like clear lenses.

The paper details worked out okay, just don't look with a magnifying glass.  The license plate was glued on aluminum plate.  Got the gauge decals on the dash.
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Last non-body color is painted.  This time painted the body inside flat black first, instead of after, will of course mask every time, see how this works out.  I never get a perfect job doing it last, always some overspray gets on the body paint.
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Which transparent paints do you use?  I usually use Tamiya paints (in glass jars) as they have a full range of very nice transparent colors.  One slight problem is that they have to be applied rather thick to give good coverage.  I also picked up a set of transparent Alclad II paints. Those are water-thin for airbrushing (you like that), but they smell "hot", so they might craze clear styrene.  I haven't actually tried them yet.

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This thread gave me a reason to dig out the NART so I could snap a couple more engine bay pics for you... I tried to show more of the clearances so you can plan your added details.  I hope they help!  (of course, now I look at the build and see things I could have done better...)

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3 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

You are MENTAL in every possible good way, Bud!!!!!....LOVE your work!!!!

? Thanks man.  I see you bumped up several of your projects, need to check in.

I've been in obsessed/possessed mode on this, *had to* get enough done to feel like there has been progress.  ?  Used up the last of the custom mixed Africa Korps paint that I made for Rommel's Rod.  I wasn't happy with the carpet, still had a hint of red, so sprayed the Testors '43 Afrika Korps paint to help subdue it.  The engine, radiator, tub, seats and exhaust are just set in place for the photos.  The steering wheel is next, will try to keep the chrome in between the wood rim, have a nice badge for the center.  Noticed in pictures there is a tiny chrome thing on the consul, in one picture looked like a tiny Ferrari shield, so substituted with a teeny prancing horse.  Been forgetting to say seat belts are going in, I think. ?  Boogered up the dash, need to repaint. ?
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Had to see those tips. ?
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8 minutes ago, Nells250 said:

This thread gave me a reason to dig out the NART so I could snap a couple more engine bay pics for you... I tried to show more of the clearances so you can plan your added details.  I hope they help!  (of course, now I look at the build and see things I could have done better...)

[...]

THANK YOU!  You added decals?

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